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Discuss Hardiebacker Vs No More Ply Nmp in the Australia area at TilersForums. The USA and UK Tiling Forum (Also now Aus, Canada, ROI, and more)

O

On one

One of my suppliers is going over from stocking Hardie to NMP
So I am in the process of looking up info on NMP and comparing the two if that is possible.
Now most people are aware of the fact that you have to be careful when cutting Hardie as regards the dust when cutting the boards. But there doesn't seem to be the same concern as regards NMP dust even though when checking the data sheet silicosis dust is mentioned?
Another note of concern is that it is that most well informed installers acknowledge that Hardiebacker does not add strength to the floor,yet this appears on a website of a supplier of NMP boards............

''Overboarding with a concrete backer board like no more ply strengthens your floor to reduce the movement and so prevents flexibility in the floor from cracking your tiles. Its cheaper and thinner than overboarding with ply and easier to cut and handle.''

Regards Confused.com
 
J

J Sid

Personality I would not use NMP again, had two failure's with it about 6 years ago.
Don't know if the boards have changed or recommend fixing method has changed since then.
 
O

On one

I have tiled over NMP before, but not fitted any. But looking on the NMP website it looks to be
50% heavier/denser than Hardie
 

Dave

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When installing NMP , you have to use their tubed adhesive in ribs and place the board into that but on cupped and caved floor boards I'm dubious about it taking up the voids , I discussed this with the NMP rep and he didn't fill me with confidence with his reply.
The boards are very sturdy and the NMP rep did say adhesive could be used as you do with hardiebacker but you would not get a guarantee if you didn't used NMP tubed adhesive.

I did use NMP on a chipboard floor and it was ok , but as a preference , then its hardiebacker for me.
 
O

Old Mod

This is what their installation manual says
image.jpeg
 
L

LM

Guys have any of you used the yet
Multi-Pro MoistSure – The Stronger – Faster – Safer Building Board
 
I

Ian

Tried NMP once, didn't like it compared to hardie. The shiney surface didn't fill me with confidence and I like that the 6mm hardies have the rough grid surface and are pre marked at 200mm centres.
 
O

On one

The fact that NMP states that it only ''expands slightly'' and that ''8 screws per board is usually sufficient'' is enough to be some concern to me.
''expands slightly'' means on cupped floorboards the board is not 100% supported,
''8 screws per board is usually sufficient'' means 8 screws might be enough,it might be 10 or if your a real cheapskate you might be able to get away with 6!
 
H

hmtiling

Have used n.m.p. at least once every month for the past 5 years and never had a failure(touch wood). I've always used the n.m.p. glue with it.
Only used hardie a couple of times and didn't like having to lay it with adhesive.
 
H

hmtiling

The fact that NMP states that it only ''expands slightly'' and that ''8 screws per board is usually sufficient'' is enough to be some concern to me.
''expands slightly'' means on cupped floorboards the board is not 100% supported,
''8 screws per board is usually sufficient'' means 8 screws might be enough,it might be 10 or if your a real cheapskate you might be able to get away with 6!
I use 12 on every full board.
 

widler

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I use both, ive used the nmp glue once, but i just spread with addy now, it does seem to solidify the floor a lot better, i like hardi much better,im same as bri i like the grid on the hardi compared to the smoothness ofthe nmp
 
S

SJPurdy

This is what their installation manual says
View attachment 77897
The mega strength adhesive is for fixing to wood floors, the SPFlex is for over-boarding concrete floors (after priming the back of the NMP boards!!) according to my instruction sheet.

The NMP screws are to hold the board down while the adhesive sets, not to hold the board in place so the number is less critical (but 8 in a board of NMP is a lot easier than 35 (which are the fixings) in the equivalent size Hardie).

Personally i'd only consider using the NMP on a flat timber floor where all the board is supported and the mega strength addy will fix it down - I don't think it is appropriate if there is any cupping of t and g boards that needs to be filled to get a solid bed (Hardie is much better, fixed over cement based addy, in this case). For me Hardie is also easier to obtain and cheaper so I hav't used NMP for a long time.

As for the comparable amounts of dust, I do not know but the warnings on the Hardie put me off using it for a while. As with any dust avoid it! Use a good dust mask, they are cheap when compared with years spluttering to a slow death!
 
A

Ash-wolves

My supplier stocks NMP, I've used it for about 6 years with no problems (always followed MI)

Cuts easy with a hand saw or by using the NMP knife, their glue is horrible if you get it on your hands ( so approach with caution!)

Although I met with the hardie rep at a dreaded TT trade show, they've a new product out soon, which fixes direct to joists so you can scrap any rotted & damaged floor boards, I'm a not in a hurry to use it tho!
 

Dave

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My supplier stocks NMP, I've used it for about 6 years with no problems (always followed MI)

Cuts easy with a hand saw or by using the NMP knife, their glue is horrible if you get it on your hands ( so approach with caution!)

Although I met with the hardie rep at a dreaded TT trade show, they've a new product out soon, which fixes direct to joists so you can scrap any rotted & damaged floor boards, I'm a not in a hurry to use it tho!

It's been out a while , seen it on a wet ufh job about a Month back.
 

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