Diamond set

[brian c]

when it comes to the final tile ie against a wall,what method do you use to get your cut.


1. use an angle finder (which you can buy from NETTor TRADE TILER)

2. TURN A TILE ON REVERSE AND MARK AT BOTH SIDES

3. SOME OTHER WAY


I have recently been shown a different way which is brilliant and easy to do,i will share it with you even if someone else does it the new way that i know.Dave,medlar,whitebeam and a few others will probably know it.

 

[garretridge]

i use an angle finder normaly but like to your new method please explain!

 

[medlar]

stand the tile on its edge and mark it then reverse it for the other side

Jimmy

 

[DHTiling]

It's point to point marking......easy peasy when you know how......come on bri...write it down...

 

[brian c]

i have another method dave which is also easy peasy...just seeing if any of you know it before i share it with you.:yes:

 

[medlar]

It's point to point marking......easy peasy when you know how......come on bri...write it down...

is point to point a bit like dot to dot ha ha. Dont think people would be shown ways like that on these courses Dave mate

Jimmy

 

[grumpygrouter]

This is where the Monty is a good cutter. You measure your distance from your point to the wall less your grout line, put the cutter into 45 deg mode and line the tile up with your distance on the gauge. Set the repeat cut guide if necessary and away you go!

 

[DHTiling]

No easier method than point to point bri.....if you know wot i mean by point to point...lol lol lol....

By this i don't mean point of tile to wall allowing for grout line either...

 

[medlar]

This is where the Monty is a good cutter. You measure your distance from your point to the wall less your grout line, put the cutter into 45 deg mode and line the tile up with your distance on the gauge. Set the repeat cut guide if necessary and away you go!

And what if the wall is out ? you need 2 measurements not 1,or have i misread your post grumps

Jimmy

 

[DHTiling]

yes..jimmy has it....:hurray:

 

[grumpygrouter]

...you are right of course Jimmy, this assumes you are tiling to a square section.

 

[brian c]

good to see i have created a bit of a debate.

 

[medlar]

yes..jimmy has it....:hurray:

Dave,thats POLD SCHOOL mate,not something these young uns would know about :hurray::hurray::hurray::hurray:

Jimmy

 

[medlar]

good to see i have created a bit of a debate.

proper trouble maker you Brian mate ha ha ha


Jimmy

 

[grumpygrouter]

.....go on then, don't keep us all in suspenders......

 

[medlar]

.....go on then, don't keep us all in suspenders......

i would like to see you in suspenders 😛rrr:😛rrr:😛rrr:

Jimmy

 

[hillhead]

I know some of you know of them great SIGMA cutters,lol.
well they also like the montys have a rule with two sets of measurements on it,one for 90 degrees and the other for 45,easy done,if wall off adjust accordingly,

 

[DHTiling]

I know some of you know of them great SIGMA cutters,lol.
well they also like the montys have a rule with two sets of measurements on it,one for 90 degrees and the other for 45,easy done,if wall off adjust accordingly,

YES..but how do you take the measurement and transfer to the tile...:dizzy2:

 

[burncross]

I flip tile over ,and mark both ponts
like everyone else?
i'v not got a fancy tool for that, but i would like a go with one , if somebody wants to lend me one?
:8:

 

[hillhead]

YES..but how do you take the measurement and transfer to the tile...:dizzy2:

ok Dave,
same as many others-point to point less grout for joint +wall ie 4mm etc
then set tile on cutter(which is set at 45) and align with the measurement you want and score then snap.any better? lol

 

[medlar]

i dont see the point in setting your cutter to a 45 degree angle,ya might as well mark ya tile,set the tile in ya cutter line up with scoring wheel,cut and snap,job done,cos if that wall is out,its gonna keep running out,so why waste time with the 45?

Jimmy

 

[hillhead]

i dont see the point in setting your cutter to a 45 degree angle,ya might as well mark ya tile,set the tile in ya cutter line up with scoring wheel,cut and snap,job done,cos if that wall is out,its gonna keep running out,so why waste time with the 45?

Jimmy

ok,everyone does it different.Most times i do it its in a new house therefore the skirting aint on yet as i request,that means that i usually have 19mm to play with,the reason for the 45 is for speed of cuts,if wall is out i can adjust the cutter away fron the 45 slightly which will work fine,i normally leave about 5-10mm under a 19mm skirting board.

 

[brian c]

ok lads,now be gentle..

first of all for demo purposes we are using a 100mmX100mm tile.

we are going to use a template here,so take the measurements diagonally across the tile and we get 140mm so we now have a template 100x140.

we now put a tile on top of the first field tile which is not touching the wall and place a full tile on top of this.Now place the 100 side of template against the wall and pull back to create a small gap the same size as the spacer,now draw a line across the tile with the other 100 end of the template.Cut tile to suit and fix.

I hope you can understand this ,sounds complicated but its a doddle and save sloads of time on large floor jobs.

I told you Dave would know.

Do any of you know of this technique or use it?

If the wall is out ,you still will have an excellent cut tile to follow the wall.

 

[DHTiling]

BRIAN.thats a faffy method.......and not always practicle if you have a bed of sticky down....

point to point switch marking is precise and quick...very quick...

 

[medlar]

ok lads,now be gentle..

first of all for demo purposes we are using a 100mmX100mm tile.

we are going to use a template here,so take the measurements diagonally across the tile and we get 140mm so we now have a template 100x140.

we now put a tile on top of the first field tile which is not touching the wall and place a full tile on top of this.Now place the 100 side of template against the wall and pull back to create a small gap the same size as the spacer,now draw a line across the tile with the other 100 end of the template.Cut tile to suit and fix.

I hope you can understand this ,sounds complicated but its a doddle and save sloads of time on large floor jobs.

I told you Dave would know.

Do any of you know of this technique or use it?

Seems a bit overboard to me Brian mate,means ya messing on with paper first then ya tile then cutting.

Jimmy

 

[medlar]

ok,everyone does it different.Most times i do it its in a new house therefore the skirting aint on yet as i request,that means that i usually have 19mm to play with,the reason for the 45 is for speed of cuts,if wall is out i can adjust the cutter away fron the 45 slightly which will work fine,i normally leave about 5-10mm under a 19mm skirting board.

for straight walls and without skirting yes that would be quick,but for walls that are not straight and do have skirting,its quicker to measure and cut.But as you say we all have our own little ways of doing things.

Jimmy

 

[brian c]

jimmy itys a doddle m8,dont knock it..give it a go and see the time you save buty as i said its probably a better technique on Large m2 jobs and not the normal toilet floors at 4m2 or whatever.

Go try it out with some 100x100 tiles in the kitchen and see what i mean,it will take 10 mins or so m8...try it.

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I must point out this was marks job and i was giving him a hand on it,but just as you asked for some pics.

 

[grumpygrouter]

i dont see the point in setting your cutter to a 45 degree angle,ya might as well mark ya tile,set the tile in ya cutter line up with scoring wheel,cut and snap,job done,cos if that wall is out,its gonna keep running out,so why waste time with the 45?

Jimmy

Te best reason for setting the angle Jimmy is if you are doing repetative cuts and you are working to a rectangle or square inside a border or something like that where you know the angles are a proper 90deg. Obviously with walls that is not always the case, neither are the always straight. if the walls are straight but run out say by 2 or 3 deg (for instance) you could mark your first tile as you would normaly, set the angle on the cutter for the first tile and then lock it into position for the rest of the cuts.

 

[medlar]

Agree Grumps,providing you are working to a square yes,i have seen many rooms over the last 30 years run out by approx 1 1/2" and thats a lot

Jimmy

 

[grumpygrouter]

Agree Grumps,providing you are working to a square yes,i have seen many rooms over the last 30 years run out by approx 1 1/2" and thats a lot

Jimmy

I agree jimmy, check out my granite floor in my album. If you look closely you will see along the bottom right of the picture that I had to cut ever larger slivers to accommodate the the wall run out....and before anybody dives in, yes I know that you can adjust to get rid of slivers but if they weren't in that position, they would have been somewhere else in the room.

My client wanted the best "impression" from the doorway that you can see as that would be the most "used" access. The cuts at that end of the room were balanced and the slivers were to be covered by a cabinet of some sort.:yes:

 

[brian c]

good old cabinets RUSS...PMSL...its ok the carpet will cover those...lol