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Brick slips, decoupler, gylon and more....

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Daz

Okay, so I'm pretty sure what I'm doing with this job, but have a few queries....

The floor is wet UFH covered with Gyvlon screed. The main living area and hallway are going to be calibrated sandstone (600 x 300 x 22mm), the kitchen is reclaimed brick slips that will be machined to a calibrated thickness and the library will be porcelain wood effect tiles.

Questions:

Should I trust the "new" Dural Ci or not spec a decoupler for the sandstone?
Can I fix the brick slips with an Anhydrite SPF or should I be considering another method?
What is the smallest "grout" joint that I can use with the brick slips?
What should I grout the brick slips with?
What is the recommended sealer to use with brick slips?

Thanks in advance,

Daz
 
brick slips will need a 10mm joint they look lovely when they are herringbone set any impregnator will do the job the anhydrite will need to be sanded before you do any thing with it and it needs a long time to thouroughly dry out whenever i tiled on them we just primed them with 2 coats of primer then used normal spf to stick them i havent tried the gypsum based adhesives so i cant comment on it, the new dural looks great and they do seem to stand by their products and i will definitely use their new matting in the future
 
Daz can help you with the brick slips ring me but am 5 hours behind or just text me will call you back no cost phone calls the same as home nowt lol
 
can be Rob but we also get reclaimed bricks some 100 years old which are cut down to 1/2 " thick which vary in size both ways up to 3/4 " with the corners which they call pistols as in guns i am fixing 250 sq yards at the moment
 
can be Rob but we also get reclaimed bricks some 100 years old which are cut down to 1/2 " thick which vary in size both ways up to 3/4 " with the corners which they call pistols as in guns i am fixing 250 sq yards at the moment

Well be honest i am in the states but Alan P is fixing them well done Alan lol
 
Pete, I'm glad to see you've reverted to sq yards in your vocab while you're visting us here!:smilewinkgrin:

Our thin brick are actually quarries, very durable, very dense, and really quality stuff. For some reason, no one has asked for it for quite some time. Summitville Tile in Ohio makes some of the best thin brick in the US.

I tiled a sidewalk with thin brick about 13 years ago, and recently did a job in the same neighborhood. I drove by to check it out and was pleased to see that it still looked in great condition.
 
when we demolish old houses we keep the bricks and roof tiles and resell them they fetch more money than the new ones old clay roof tiles, and bricks what they call old stocks also fetch good money as they build new houses out of the old bricks a green world he he
 
Thanks guys.

@Gary, I usually use an anhydrite adhesive for these screeds based on advice from Ajax (Alan) and, although, Ardex have told me that a cement based addy is fine I've always resisted. Are you saying that you've not had any issues provided the floor is properly sanded and double primed?

@Pete, thanks for the offer and I will take you up on it mate. I'll be in touch soon.
 
Thanks guys.

@Gary, I usually use an anhydrite adhesive for these screeds based on advice from Ajax (Alan) and, although, Ardex have told me that a cement based addy is fine I've always resisted. Are you saying that you've not had any issues provided the floor is properly sanded and double primed?

@Pete, thanks for the offer and I will take you up on it mate. I'll be in touch soon.
tiled loads of anhydrite floors when working in Germany they have been using anhydrite for 30 years and pretty much all residential jobs have anhydrite floors if they are sanded and dryed out and primed properly there is no problem using cement based adhesive its just the water issue where you have to be careful anhydrite screeds dont like water
 
No reason if everything is perfect why a cement based addy won't work. However I always (as you no doubt know) recommend Gypsum based addy as it will offer a more robust system as it removes the very significant element of chemical incompatibility. Germany France and Holland all use them almost routinely these days. If you do use a cement addy make sure the primer is good quality and penetrates the screed well. The other issue you are up against in the UK which you will not see much of in Germany is the Low Laitance systems which are becoming prevalent The surface of these is that much more dense and as such the priming is that much more difficult due to lack of absorption.
 

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