Aquapanel or Hardibacker

[DS Tiling]

Thanks again Northern. If they are for 6mm then that is quite impressive and are of a higher rigidity than the 12mm aquapanel. I will consider using your boards in future in that case. Still a bit confused why bal said you had to use fastflex and not just a rapidset flex, maybe belt and braces. Anyway can't fault you for customer service.

 

[Northern Bird]

I aim to please, let me know if you ever want to try it, I can see if I can arrange some sheets

 

[grumpygrouter]

Right, for those who first lay a bed of flexi adhesive then lay the board onto the adhesive bed, then screw down, do you let the boards \ adhesive set before lumbering onto the boards to screw down or what ?

My limited experience with Hardie 6mm board is that it isn't exactly flat. When you lay your recommended 3mm notch adhesive bed, some of the board would not have coverage, therefore I would screw the board down before the adhesive set, pulling the board onto the addy. In fact my last attempt I had to go up a size or two to get sufficient coverage!

Grumpy

 

[quick draw macgraw]

I was going to use my 6mm wall trowel to lay addy. So do i screw down first or wait till addy has gone off, so frustrating.

:whatchutalkingabout

Steve.

 

[DHTiling]

wait till it has set........then screw down with rust-proof screws........

 

[DS Tiling]

We screw the sheets into wet rapidset flex.

Hardie boards are still confusing me with regards to rigidity. I don't understand why a 2 part would be required over the top of a backer board if the board was meant to be rigid enough. Doing this would make prep work on the expensive side.

It would be a lot more helpfull if manufacturers for example gave the equivalent rigidity to the relevant ply overlay for example equivalent to 15mm ply.

 

[Gazzer]

Northern Bird is the Rep so i am sure she will be able to clear this matter up later.

 

[Northern Bird]

The idea with hardiebacker is it does not provide any more rigity to a floor. Its not to be used a floor replacement. Yes basic question but some people think that they can rip up floorboards and lay 6mm hardiebacker, onto the floor joists

You would lay the Hardiebacker on the fllor only into a wet 3mm notched bed of adhesive.

The reason why we say about the adhesive. It is a gap filler. Floors should always be checked to ensure there is little movement or deflection. The cheaters whay I was told to check was to fill a glass of water place it in the centre of the room and the jump up and down.

Not sure how to explain that to a customer.

The ahesive recommendation is what is being recommened by BAL from their own testing on the product.

 

[DS Tiling]

Northern, you must be sick of me by now but thanks again for taking the time to reply. There are several reasons most of us would overply a floor or use a backer board but one primarily is to add rigidity to the substrate and give a better surface for tiling onto. Stick a laser on a pole on just about any wooden floor and walk across the room and you will get some deflection. That is why most of us go for oversheeting the original floor with ply of a thickness 12mm+. I was simply asking to what thickness of plywood installing for example a 6mm backerboard would be equivalent.

It is hard for us as installers as we have reputations as well and some of us like to offer alternatives to customers but only once we have a thorough understanding of products beforehand. It can get confusing.... Hardie for example state that a solid floor should be 15.8mm thick or equivalent to the joists approx 400mm whereas Ditra consider 22mm to the joists as stable whereas most of us tilers would prefer 25mm to the joists.

Anyway thanks again and still 10 out of 10 for customer service.

 

[Northern Bird]

Northern, you must be sick of me by now but thanks again for taking the time to reply. There are several reasons most of us would overply a floor or use a backer board but one primarily is to add rigidity to the substrate and give a better surface for tiling onto. Stick a laser on a pole on just about any wooden floor and walk across the room and you will get some deflection. That is why most of us go for oversheeting the original floor with ply of a thickness 12mm+. I was simply asking to what thickness of plywood installing for example a 6mm backerboard would be equivalent.

It is hard for us as installers as we have reputations as well and some of us like to offer alternatives to customers but only once we have a thorough understanding of products beforehand. It can get confusing.... Hardie for example state that a solid floor should be 15.8mm thick or equivalent to the joists approx 400mm whereas Ditra consider 22mm to the joists as stable whereas most of us tilers would prefer 25mm to the joists.

Anyway thanks again and still 10 out of 10 for customer service.

True, the Hardiebacker is not designed to great rigidity so I can totally understand where you are coming from. I know its not perfect and you guys will know there are some situations where it is not suitable. The most important thing is as long as people try.

There a few people who simply dont care. I heard another horror story of a guy who just covered it up!!

At least there there are some guys who are looking out for their reputation and their customers.

 

[wayne]

you could try using no more ply as an alternative. anyone use this as well. the 9mm is great stuff