Shower valve issue

[tmid]

Hi,

I wonder if anybody has come across this problem before and knows the solution. Our plumber has fitted the shower valve for the overhead shower and it is clear that the gap between the chrome cover plate and the bronze spigot at the back does not leave enough space for 12.5mm plasterboard and 7mm tile + bedding. The gap is only about 13mm whereas we need bout 20mm.There is no margin for adjustment, as the fitments that get attached from the front do not get enough grip on the threads if the distance is increased at the back to accommodate the plasterboard and the tile.

Any advice on a solution would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: links added to show the issue

imgur.com/OS9opbu,oFJH0eC#1

 

[Qwerty]

Have you spoken to the plumber?

 

[cam_low]

A bathroom I am on at the moment... Our plumber had to make some extensions as the tiler dot n dabbed 15mm stone over the ply wood. (all bad practice.)
He has a workshop and machined then himself.
He is in north London. I don't know if that's near you or not. Good luck

 

[White Room]

tmid is from around Fife.....

 

[Chalker]

Only one way o sort this one.

move shower mixer forward! Not the answer your after, but its the only option.

 

[tmid]

Chalker,

Thanks for the response. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by 'move shower mixer forward'. Forward to where?

 

[IHB]

Something like http://www.screwfix.com/p/female-coupler-15mm-x/93992 might do it. Might bring it out too far though.

 

[Saltire69]

The mixer can be fitted onto wood to pack it out further so plasterboard and tile fit ok. Fix a batton between the 2 joists then fit the mixer valve.

 

[Martyn Leeds]

Have you spoken to the plumber?

Do we have an answer to this question yet???

'cos the answer definitely lies with this plumber

 

[tmid]

Saltire69,

Thank you for your suggestion. However, there is no possibility to bring the whole thing forward, as it then just brings the problem forward - it will be in the way of the plasterboard. The problem is the size of the gap between the male spigots and the chrome plate. Please see the link to another image below:

i.imgur.com/kutKYtP.png

 

[tmid]

Thank you, IHB. I will ask our plumber to look at this idea. Perhaps the extended coupling could be cut to the required length.

 

[beanz]

From your pictures, it looks like the whole mixer needs to come forward. Call the plumber back, and tell him to move it. There's no easy fix for you, as I doubt there's going to be enough play on the pipes to just loosen, and fit something behind.

 

[AliGage]

The fascia plate can come forward about 20mm to the back of the handles from the looks of it

 

[Chalker]

Can't make the link work?

 

[tmid]

Is this the link you are referring to?
http://i.imgur.com/kutKYtP.png

Hope it works this time.

 

[AliGage]

Copy and paste into your browser.
Its a BIV with a push on flat cover plate.

 

[beanz]

I'm not seeing be extra 20mm!?!

 

[Chalker]

Copy and paste into your browser.
Its a BIV with a push on flat cover plate.

Tried that, it says bad link. On I pad.
can anone copy a pic or post a clickable link?

 

[AliGage]

I'm not seeing be extra 20mm!?!

The cylinder section of the valve. The plate once pushed back in the picture shows 15-20mm still exposed.

7mm tile must be a small-ish format. Ceramic, maybe porcelain.
Looks like its a purpose made stud to house the BIV. So being a small area. . . . . . 6mm backer board, 7mm tile and a compressed bed of approx 3mm. I think theyll get it in.

 

[thompsonbrown]

Hi,

I wonder if anybody has come across this problem before and knows the solution. Our plumber has fitted the shower valve for the overhead shower and it is clear that the gap between the chrome cover plate and the bronze spigot at the back does not leave enough space for 12.5mm plasterboard and 7mm tile + bedding. The gap is only about 13mm whereas we need bout 20mm.There is no margin for adjustment, as the fitments that get attached from the front do not get enough grip on the threads if the distance is increased at the back to accommodate the plasterboard and the tile.

Any advice on a solution would be greatly appreciated.

What make of shower valve is it ?

 

[Diggy]

Do we have a pic of the valve im situ?

 

[Diggy]

Oh , and make and model?

 

[tmid]

Hi guys,

here is the link to the product:
http://www.bathempire.com/thermosta...--and--hand-held--korbu-premium_p24121893.htm

Thanks for all your comments so far.

 

[Chalker]

I can see it now.

this type of valve does not have much adjustment for depth. I have fitted quite a few. Forget about it having to be behind the plasterboard. Just make sure its right for the tiles. This WILL mean moving the mixer forwards.

fitted the same one here.

 

[AliGage]

Tmid. Does the fascia plate push over the cylinder sections of the valve and is it free to move back and forth

 

[AliGage]

I can see it now.

this type of valve does not have much adjustment for depth. I have fitted quite a few. Forget about it having to be behind the plasterboard. Just make sure its right for the tiles. This WILL mean moving the mixer forwards.

Or use a backer board instead of 12.5 pb.
Marmox thinnest is 4mm. That gives 8.5mm back.

 

[beanz]

The cylinder section of the valve. The plate once pushed back in the picture shows 15-20mm still exposed.

7mm tile must be a small-ish format. Ceramic, maybe porcelain.
Looks like its a purpose made stud to house the BIV. So being a small area. . . . . . 6mm backer board, 7mm tile and a compressed bed of approx 3mm. I think theyll get it in.

What I'm seeing is about 5mm plus reflection. And I believe the 5mm visible, is actually the plate (where the rubber seal sits), and not the actual cylinder. I could be wrong though.. A smaller backer board might help, but surely you'd have to add lots of support to the wall? Easier to get the plumber back, to do his job properly IMO.

 

[Chalker]

These mixers are predominately used on the continent, and chased into a solid wall. The plaster or cement finish for tiling only just covers the mixer. For the price these are a good quality valve ( solid brass ) you just need to consider the depth when installing. I normally install them to be flush with the plasterboard or whatever substrate is being used. When the boarding has been fitted ( will need notching round the bottom pipe connections) then tape up the mixer to stop marks and using powder adhesive, cover the connections ready for tiling.
I'm sure I have some pics of this, so will post them if I can find.

 

[Saltire69]

That's what I was meaning Chalker. For me plasterboard is always cut round these types of fittings. Lost count of how many times had to tell plumbers to move them forward.

 

[Sean SML Tiling]

Add some extra noggins and fit 10mm insulation board amd with tile and adhesive it will work out just fine.

 

[AliGage]

Add some extra noggins and fit 10mm insulation board amd with tile and adhesive it will work out just fine.

12.5-10=??