Preparing A Concrete Floor For Tiling - Floor Has Bitumen Down

[philrab66]

Hi all
Got a concrete floor to tile just wondering if somebody could help me out with the prep. It has some glue or maybe bitumen on it on patches around 2-3 mm high. does this need to come off or could I get away with leaving it using a 10mm notch?. I have done a few tiling jobs but not really looked into doing things the correct way ( correct adhesive, priming and such). Will I need to prime the floor?
I am ashamed to admit that I have only mainly used tubbed adhesive because I was worried about it going off too quick because I am so slow. The only trade store I have locally is Topps so could somebody recommend what adhesives I should be using for this floor and for general wall tiling for in the future.
Would like to thank everybody in advance for your help and compliment the owners of the forum for a great site.
Phil.

 

[Just Rizzle]

were in n Yorkshire are u philrab?

 

[philrab66]

were in n Yorkshire are u philrab?

Northallerton

 

[Dougs Third Go]

tbh Phil, tiling is the easy bit, prepping it correctly is what makes it easy. If the bitumen and glue residue can't be removed I'd be first prepping it with a cement/sbr slurry coat, then a decent self levelling compound, weber or tilemaster being my preferred options. Once your slc has set then prime with appropiate acrylic primer. A 10mm radius solid bed trowel and a standard set (as you've stated you're not very fast)powder adhesive, trowel your adhesive onto the substrate, ie concrete floor and give your tile a skim coat to fill the studs and away you go.

 

[philrab66]

tbh Phil, tiling is the easy bit, prepping it correctly is what makes it easy. If the bitumen and glue residue can't be removed I'd be first prepping it with a cement/sbr slurry coat, then a decent self levelling compound, weber or tilemaster being my preferred options. Once your slc has set then prime with appropiate acrylic primer. A 10mm radius solid bed trowel and a standard set (as you've stated you're not very fast)powder adhesive, trowel your adhesive onto the substrate, ie concrete floor and give your tile a skim coat to fill the studs and away you go.

Thanks Doug
Could you please advise me what the sbr does and how it is applied. So much to learn the proper techniques . Also if the bits do come off do I just use the primer. Thanks
Phil.

 

[philrab66]

This is the material.

 

[Just Rizzle]

if your in n Allerton there is direct tile importers on standard way a lot better than topps
have you any experience or done any courses?

 

[Dougs Third Go]

Thanks Doug
Could you please advise me what the sbr does and how it is applied. So much to learn the proper techniques . Also if the bits do come off do I just use the primer. Thanks
Phil.

the sbr/cement slurry is your best friend, it consolidates the existing substrate creating a dust free surface, gives you a good bond and interface between substrate and adhesive. If you do get the bitumen and glue residue up successfully then, yes. an acrylic primer to match your adhesive will be fine.

 

[philrab66]

if your in n Allerton there is direct tile importers on standard way a lot better than topps
have you any experience or done any courses?

Hi Ray
Yes I normally use Direct tiles never used topps for anything surprised they are still in business there always empty. I am a Handyman by trade so I have done a few jobs mainly for landlords done a few bathrooms and kitchens. As I mentioned earlier not really approached it very well using correct materials but trying to learn.

 

[philrab66]

the sbr/cement slurry is your best friend, it consolidates the existing substrate creating a dust free surface, gives you a good bond and interface between substrate and adhesive. If you do get the bitumen and glue residue up successfully then, yes. an acrylic primer to match your adhesive will be fine.

Cheers Doug do you just brush the slurry on?