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Yes please, I was talking to Widerange Tiles about this very subject recently. They are pushing epoxy primer and SPF adhesive, but when I explained that in a real world where you would have to give 2 coats of primer over the required drying times. It would be easier to use the more expensive gypsum based adhesive and get the job done quicker. Obviously it depends on the size of the areas to be tiled.
They had asked if I had used it yet as I believe they have been talking to yourself about it.
So again yes please to the samples and Widerange will hold them for me . Thanks
The bond between ditra and screed was perfect.
I only mentioned the stone as that was why I had to lift ditra.
I am not familiar with Epoxy primers or gypsum based adhesives so my only question, given the result I had with cement based products, is why do I need them?
I'm totally open to new products and find it all very interesting but I do wonder if things can be over thought some times.
I hope my point is clear
Will they do a moisture test?
I finally had a look at this floor, and got some more details on it...
There is UFH, and it will be commisioned shortly.
There is celotex all around the perimeter of the floor. Is this usual!?! How do i deal with it (ie. stick the Ditra to it!?!)?
Customer has bought an Epoxy Primer (meant to make a note of brand, but as usual... Forgot), and Weber SPF.
Any thoughts?
Celotex round the edge is to prevent cold bridging. It should normally be covered by the skirtings and plasterboard. It is normally only 25mm thick.
Me neither!?! Only thing I can come up with is to use Tec 7, to stick the mat to the foam, but no idea what sort of bond it'll give!?! :-/
The screed itself looks like it'll be a pleasure to tile, as it's really flat. Nothing's ever straight forward though is it? Lol
What about if you we're to scrape out some of the foam down to say 10mm and fill it up with levelling compound or adhesive.
Just make sure theprepos done correctly and make sure when you mix the epoxy primer you use a spatula to scrape out all of part a into part be to mix it. Is it a water dispersable primer. They can soften be diluted to make them easier to penetrate the screed surface.
Discuss Ditra on Anhydrite in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com.
Its no problem sticking to the fleece back Peter. Tilemaster AnhyFix is ready for launch in 2 weeks time and our adhesion strengths are in keeping with a C2 rated cement based adhesive which is very encouraging.
When using our product with an uncoupling membrane, absolutely no reason for any concerns!
When using our product with an uncoupling membrane, absolutely no reason for any concerns!
Strictly speaking no David because the AnhyFix is 100% compatible with anhydrite/calcium sulphate screeds.
We are recommending, however, one coat of primer, diluted with 3 parts water. The reason being to reduce porosity and remove dust, no other reason. For the same reasons you would prime a concrete or sand/cement screed prior to tiling.
We are recommending, however, one coat of primer, diluted with 3 parts water. The reason being to reduce porosity and remove dust, no other reason. For the same reasons you would prime a concrete or sand/cement screed prior to tiling.
G
Gazzer
Yes please, I was talking to Widerange Tiles about this very subject recently. They are pushing epoxy primer and SPF adhesive, but when I explained that in a real world where you would have to give 2 coats of primer over the required drying times. It would be easier to use the more expensive gypsum based adhesive and get the job done quicker. Obviously it depends on the size of the areas to be tiled.
They had asked if I had used it yet as I believe they have been talking to yourself about it.
So again yes please to the samples and Widerange will hold them for me . Thanks
Its different to the Kerakoll Ideal David and Anhyfix doesn't rely on dispersion. Its a rapid setting gypsum based adhesive that will set within 3 hours. AnhyFix is made with a blend of gypsum based materials, one of them a rapid setting product and the usual herbs and spices so it doesn't rely on suction from the tile or substrate in order for it to set.
Its also ideal for new plaster skim, but cannot be used in wet/damp environments.
My understanding on the Kerkaoll product is that it doesn't contain much, if any gypsum, i believe its based on the marble dust etc but how true this i don't know? I have heard of the Kerakoll taking a while to set when used in conjunction with an uncoupling membrane.
Its also ideal for new plaster skim, but cannot be used in wet/damp environments.
My understanding on the Kerkaoll product is that it doesn't contain much, if any gypsum, i believe its based on the marble dust etc but how true this i don't know? I have heard of the Kerakoll taking a while to set when used in conjunction with an uncoupling membrane.
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Just to add a real life situation to this thread... I was about to tile a 70m2 (UFH)Anhydite screed with the following prep: labourer sanded and applied 1/1 Mapie Primer G, allowed to dry overnight then neat primer G. Ditra was then fixed with Mapie Keraquick mixed with Latex plus. The stone (supposed to be 15mm thick) arrived on a slow boat from China and was 18mm thick! The floor flowed through glass doors to an outdoor patio so the heights had to be exact. End result was Ditra had to be lifted so floor could be sanded back. Lifting the Ditra was near impossible. Specialist floor grinding company called as the Ditra was stuck solid and we simply could not get it off floor.
Just thought I'd mention it.
Just thought I'd mention it.
- 10
- 253
Obviously didn't make my point clear.
The bond between ditra and screed was perfect.
I only mentioned the stone as that was why I had to lift ditra.
I am not familiar with Epoxy primers or gypsum based adhesives so my only question, given the result I had with cement based products, is why do I need them?
I'm totally open to new products and find it all very interesting but I do wonder if things can be over thought some times.
I hope my point is clear
Lee@emctiles
TF
Will they do a moisture test?
I finally had a look at this floor, and got some more details on it...
There is UFH, and it will be commisioned shortly.
There is celotex all around the perimeter of the floor. Is this usual!?! How do i deal with it (ie. stick the Ditra to it!?!)?
Customer has bought an Epoxy Primer (meant to make a note of brand, but as usual... Forgot), and Weber SPF.
Any thoughts?
Will they do a moisture test?
I finally had a look at this floor, and got some more details on it...
There is UFH, and it will be commisioned shortly.
There is celotex all around the perimeter of the floor. Is this usual!?! How do i deal with it (ie. stick the Ditra to it!?!)?
Customer has bought an Epoxy Primer (meant to make a note of brand, but as usual... Forgot), and Weber SPF.
Any thoughts?
Celotex round the edge is to prevent cold bridging. It should normally be covered by the skirtings and plasterboard. It is normally only 25mm thick.
.oh dear. Not sure how to get round that....
Me neither!?! Only thing I can come up with is to use Tec 7, to stick the mat to the foam, but no idea what sort of bond it'll give!?! :-/
The screed itself looks like it'll be a pleasure to tile, as it's really flat. Nothing's ever straight forward though is it? Lol
What about if you we're to scrape out some of the foam down to say 10mm and fill it up with levelling compound or adhesive.
Just make sure theprepos done correctly and make sure when you mix the epoxy primer you use a spatula to scrape out all of part a into part be to mix it. Is it a water dispersable primer. They can soften be diluted to make them easier to penetrate the screed surface.
Reply to Ditra on Anhydrite in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com
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