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Dan

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I can't remember the exact measurements but British standards states that over a 2m length there is meant to be no deviation either way more than about 3mm or something like that, so no, that's quite bad. Varying thicknesses of adhesives that much will mean A) you have a lot more weight than is allowed on plasterboard in certain areas and B) your adhesive choice becomes more important and restrictive. As you don't want shrinkage which can crack tiles.

Tanking wise: not sure what he has used there that sounds weird.
 
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Steve H

Thanks Geoff and Dan, I was beginning to think this may need taking apart before putting together again. Just to clarify Geoff, my intention was to tank the wet areas, tray and wall with BAL WP1 tanking kit, on top of the resin, but I have no experience of this type of finish and I am not certain that the BAL kit would adhere to the resin. The screws are 40mm brass (coloured).
 
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SJPurdy

You are thinking right. Wall so bad easier to redo it flat rather than try to plaster it flat. If the surface is so bad what is the fixing underneath like? To be flat enough to tile it must not be possible to slide a 3mm spacer underneath a 2m long straight edge placed anywhere on the wall!

You will need to know what the fiberglass resin stuff is so that you can check with the BAL tech help people if their tanking system can be applied over it. I wouldn't risk it without their say so.
 

Chalker

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The walls will need straightening. But as for the showere area I would tape all the joints and tank the whole area with ardex wp. It sticks to anything.
 
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One Day

And this gentlemen is exactly why we need regulation on wet area preparation. All that hardibacker is totally and utterly pointless and all the effort that's gone in so far is pretty much wasted. I could cry...
 
F

Flintstone

As above and I have also spotted that the tray appears to be much lower than the rest of the floor area which is a big problem
 
O

One Day

Steve, if you really are going to press on with this, I would do the following:
Sand down the fibreglass well with a rough paper, to aid keying.
Get 2x Ardex WPC kits and tank out the wet area. Scrim tape the corners and board joints and go over again with Ardex WPC.
Drill some weep holes into the little plastic upstand around that marmox tray, and don't use less than 50mm mosaics on it.
Good idea too to use an epoxy grout on the tray.


AAAARGH!!! Just makes me so mad to see HB on the walls!
 
S

Steve H

Thanks all for your advice. It has frightened me off, mainly cos I'm sodding off to the Algarve in the camper van in a couple of weeks and I wouldn't want to leave a mess or a half finished job. I know a very capable and experienced tiler, who will know exactly how to finish this job and at the end of the day the neighbour will be happy, which is the aim after all.
All the head scratching and banter on this forum has whetted my appetite and I will be getting my trowels dirty when I return. Thanks once again for sharing your knowledge.
 

average

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Fill the walls out with tiling addy and as for the 3mm rise between floor and tray, youll take that out with tiling addy aswell
 

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