Advice needed on laying porcelain tiles

A

Alan

Hi All, I will be laying 9m2 of 600x300 rectified polished porcelain tiles in my bathroom. It will be over green chipboard and I know all the advice is against this but I have tiled over chipboard before and not had a problem. It is new chipboard, well screwed down at 5” centres with no bounce in the floor.

Question 1. Should I prime the floor with something like Mapei Primer G?

I plan to use Mapei Keraquick with Latex Plus (recommended by Mapei for laying on chipboard)

Question 2. What size and type of trowel. I have read lots on the subject and I am more confused than ever. I would think a 10-12mm square notched trowel on this size of tile, giving a 5-6mm bed. But there are many recommendations for round notched trowels on floor tiles as it gives better total coverage. The problem is it also says that whereas a square notched trowel will result in a bed half the depth of the notch, with a round notch trowel, the bed would only be a third of the depth of the notch, so 3mm for a 10mm notch. Surely this isn’t enough.

Question 3. Tile spacers. As these are rectified tiles, I plan on using a 2mm spacer, is this OK? I am planning to use Mapei Ultracolour Plus which has a minimum grout line of 2mm.
 
In not going to get into chipboard argument as you have made your mind up .A 10 mm square notch trowel gives you a bed depth of about 3mm because you use it at an angle of approximately 45 degrees . Also minimum of 3mm grout joint .
 
How can the chipboard be screwed at 5'' centres,if (probably) the joists are at 450mm to 600mm spacing?
 
How can the chipboard be screwed at 5'' centres,if (probably) the joists are at 450mm to 600mm spacing?

The joists are at 400 centres and there are 5 screws to each joist at 125mm centres. The floor is level to within 1mm ( I levelled it with packers on the joists where required). There is very little bounce which I verified by filling a glass to the brim placing it on the floor and jumping up and down. No water spilled out (I saw that test on a website and thought I would try it). I know it is not advisable but adding another 8mm for Hardibacker and the cement adds too much height. It is not a wetroom, there is a shower tray for the shower so water on the floor will be minimal. I understand why professionals would not want to do it because of the comeback if there are failures, but for DIY, if the floor is solid, providing the right adhesive is used I can't see the problem
 
I don't do it anymore admittedly but in the past I used to tile straight on to chipboard to keep height to a minimum, and I must admit I've never had any comebacks, this included two bathrooms in a house I lived in for ten years, so if you are certain there's minimal movement and you're doing it for yourself, then I don't see a problem really, if it fails, you redo it and say sorry on this forum for not listening :laughing:
 
It may well be absolutely fine but all it takes is a tiny leak from the shower, kids splashing a little too much in the Bath, a leaking pan connector or some other plumbing leak in the dozens of joints in a Bathroom for there to be a failure when water hits the chipboard. Personally I try not to use chipboard at all, I’ll use ply and then overboard it.

Obviously you can counter the argument by suggesting that no water will ever reach the substrate but I don’t believe anyone can be in control of something like that.
 
I have time so I will give advise, more for the reason that everyone can say "they told you so" if you ignore them and it all goes posterior over mammaries .

Tiling onto timber, the spacing required for screwing is maximum of 300mm in BOTH directions, not 125 one way and 400 the other. Thats daft!

So unless you are going to lift the floor up and stick noggins in, you're on course for an emotional battering. If you don't, its a ticking time-bomb! If you do, you also need to find an adhesive manufacturer that will guarantee their products on chipboard.... Or if you do end up with the right spacing, Ditra Matting fitted with AF200, then tile on that with and S1 cement based adhesive. But that won't eliminate deflection.

Do yourself a favour and just overlay it with NMP or Hardie like everyone says. It'll cost you less than having to do it twice!
 
There are some chipboard manufacturers that don’t recommend direct tiling to their boards, regardless of what adhesive manufacturer says.
 
Hi All, I will be laying 9m2 of 600x300 rectified polished porcelain tiles in my bathroom. It will be over green chipboard and I know all the advice is against this but I have tiled over chipboard before and not had a problem. It is new chipboard, well screwed down at 5” centres with no bounce in the floor.

Question 1. Should I prime the floor with something like Mapei Primer G?

I plan to use Mapei Keraquick with Latex Plus (recommended by Mapei for laying on chipboard)

Question 2. What size and type of trowel. I have read lots on the subject and I am more confused than ever. I would think a 10-12mm square notched trowel on this size of tile, giving a 5-6mm bed. But there are many recommendations for round notched trowels on floor tiles as it gives better total coverage. The problem is it also says that whereas a square notched trowel will result in a bed half the depth of the notch, with a round notch trowel, the bed would only be a third of the depth of the notch, so 3mm for a 10mm notch. Surely this isn’t enough.

Question 3. Tile spacers. As these are rectified tiles, I plan on using a 2mm spacer, is this OK? I am planning to use Mapei Ultracolour Plus which has a minimum grout line of 2mm.

If you have already tiled over chipboard in the past with no problems then surely just do exactly as you have previously.
 
I'd be more worried that you've packered underneath the joists, unless you've tapered the packers the full length of the joists you're going to get flexing near those packers and inevitably the chipboard will breakdown it's structural integrity, tiles cracking, grout breaking down and leaks, good luck with all that!
 
I'd be more worried that you've packered underneath the joists, unless you've tapered the packers the full length of the joists you're going to get flexing near those packers and inevitably the chipboard will breakdown it's structural integrity, tiles cracking, grout breaking down and leaks, good luck with all that!
Agree should be proper furrings ( if that is how you spell it )
 

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