Dot & Dab travertine?

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Yes I can see where you are coming from but look at it from spanys point of view as a customer that is being told by the fixer and the contractor that there is nothing wrong with the job when any idiot can tell from the pics that is not true.
Spanky came on the forum looking for support and advice on the credibility of doting and dabbing. It is understandable that he was hesitant he is not an expert. He was getting good sound advice from the forum members and gaining the ammunition to fire at the fixer and contractor but then he got these comments (Why is it so bad to dot and dab?) and (There is nothing wrong with dabbing the wall tiles so long as its a cement based adhesive. From the photo you posted it looks like there is at least 75% coverage on the tile and that’s good enough.) and (Spanky i can tell you now before you get into a huge wrangle with this tiler, if you end up in court on the issue of dabbing tiles you will without a shadow of doubt loose the case.) and (I have given evidence twice in the past five years on tiling cases. If I were giving evidence in this case i would discredit your Internet forum advice simply by producing some of the replies posted on other subjects.)
It is now wonder he was hesitant but he stuck to his guns and got rid of the fixer and the contractor.
I for one respect the man for standing his ground and I apologies to anybody reading this thread if I come across as bickering but to me it is important that inexperienced fixers understand that this dot and dab method is not an acceptable fixing method and I will stand my ground against anybody who try’s to justify it.
 
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i can't wait to hear teh way this turns out, i genuinely wish you all teh best spanky and i'll be glued to the thread checking how you're getting on. (thankfully the two and a half hours it's took me so far won't have to be repeated)

All the best and i hope you get the outcome you dseserve!
 
i have to cut one of these out tomorrow due to the sparky drilling a 30 mm hole in the wrong place
the slab was dot and dabbed on
so we will see how easely it comes off
i bet it brings most of the concreat block with it
28072008212.jpg
How did it go getting that tile out? Have you got any pics m8?
 
I do think that there is merit in the method you are talking about but that is not dot and dab. I will concede that if you are achieving eighty percent coverage and you are within the adhesive manufacturers recommended bed depth and the weight limits for the sub-straight then it doesn’t really mater whether you apply the adhesive with a notched trowel or a gauging trowel. If you will concede that dot and dab is not an acceptable method of fixing tiles of any kind.

You obviously know your stuff and I have a lot of respect for tilers who do a good job but I have no respect for people who try to defend a job that is clearly sub-standard.
dean , there is a difference between dot dabbing and gauging the back of the tile, you dont necessary have to use a notched trowel to achieve the correct bed of adhesive...
 
a lumb hammer and bolster would,nt touch it
the lad had to get the kango out
now the main contractors haggling over the 4 hours day work:mad2:
PMSL....that wouldn't have happened if you didn't have 90/100% coverage and the adhesive gauged to the tile well....
 
Paul, you only have yourself to blame for making such a sturdy job of it in the 1st place...lol :lol:
 
ill take some next week if i think on

Sound mate, Bit sad but I take an interest in stuff like that, amazing how many people walk past a building like that everyday without even considering the skill and effort that went into the finish, there's nothing there one day, big wooden fence boards around them the next and then hey presto boards come down and there's the finished job. The boards should be transparent to make people appreciate the skill more.
 
Hi spanky, ive just finished reading this whole thread and i've experienced this personally, i dove headfirst into landfill but crawled out to a fine wine experience.

Beware the bearers of false gifts and their broken promises.
 
Rab78, you are not kidding. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

At least the rest of the work on the house is progressing better than expected.

. . . . . . . . .
 
Travertine is new to me and i can see just how much contribution this topic will be when it comes to fixing them. Personally i'd comb the walls and the backs of the travertine (i'd condiser cleaning the backs from dust too), to allow for build out, use a flexible poweder adhesive suitable for natural stone. Twice the amount of materials required, but thats natural stone for you. If the gyppy cant handle the weight, then I guess lining the walls with 9mm ply, bond it. Then line the ply with 9mm gyppy, bond it. Those are my instincts but maybe a step too much with the ply. Would the gyppy be stronger if it were coated again with bonding agent I wonder, is there methods to strengthen the load beared by the gyppy? Also if you bond the backs of the trav, will it help for any reason..?

Expensiveness is due to products used and not for profit gained.

Prepartion is everything, safe results are the products of preparation.
 
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Travertine is new to me and i can see just how much contribution this topic will be when it comes to fixing them. Personally i'd comb the walls and the backs of the travertine (i'd condiser cleaning the backs from dust too), to allow for build out, use a flexible poweder adhesive suitable for natural stone. Twice the amount of materials required, but thats natural stone for you. If the gyppy cant handle the weight, then I guess lining the walls with 9mm ply, bond it. Then line the ply with 9mm gyppy, bond it. Those are my instincts but maybe a step too much with the ply. Would the gyppy be stronger if it were coated again with bonding agent I wonder, is there methods to strengthen the load beared by the gyppy? Also if you bond the backs of the trav, will it help for any reason..?

Expensiveness is due to products used and not for profit gained.

Prepartion is everything, safe results are the products of preparation.
dont bother with all that just fit tile backer board.. :thumbsup:
 
Plaster board is not a good choice for any wet area period.

Gypsum is food for mold.

So if you want to create a toxic mold culture in the client's bathroom then go ahead and use that gypsum garbage.

Always, always, always use cement backer board in wet areas.

Even better in our age of advanced materials use Magnesium Oxide (MgO) board.
Lots of places you can find it now.
Use a waterproofing system as well in all wet areas.
 
Don't mind me while I bump some old but popular threads to see if the topic is still active in some way. Wondering if either the original idea or original issue still exists. I've done this with quite a few threads, so don't be offended if this is just jargon these days and not applicable. But I thought there might be a small chance a small percentage of the small number of threads might just be slightly applicable and the thread could get a new lease of life.

Reply to this if you've read a bit and have something to say. 🙂
There IS going to be a bigger chance when i do this, that the thread is dead. So don't worry if that's the case, just don't reply to it, and we'll all move on and let the thread drop out of view again.
 
Just bumping some of the older popular threads. Probably wont be current discussion these days but I just need to do it. So just ignore the thread if it's not current for you.
 

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