Currently reading:
Self level compound poor job?

Discuss Self level compound poor job? in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com.

Boggs

TF
Arms
Esteemed
4,729
1,118
Uk
13 bags fast track today.

As said a spiked roller is a must, really helps get it flat.

B7A1647A-DE31-430B-8B67-DE17B6118616.jpeg 0AB523D0-9E6C-4B14-8714-8200194DEA53.jpeg FE30683C-9D3B-4516-BBB2-87330A43AECD.jpeg
 

Boggs

TF
Arms
Esteemed
4,729
1,118
Uk
Floor was screed, it varied in thickness as there was a supporting brick wall we took out between the arch and double doors and the original screed was falling in opposite directions.

Just used a spiked roller, helps get the air out and get it flat.

I will say though I used Topps Tiles fast track and it was really nice stuff and we were walking on this floor within the hour!
I highly recommend it.
 

acaciaguy

TF
Arms
388
568
Warwickshire
Floor was screed, it varied in thickness as there was a supporting brick wall we took out between the arch and double doors and the original screed was falling in opposite directions.

Just used a spiked roller, helps get the air out and get it flat.

I will say though I used Topps Tiles fast track and it was really nice stuff and we were walking on this floor within the hour!
I highly recommend it.

Very nice. How long until you can fix tiles?
 

Boggs

TF
Arms
Esteemed
4,729
1,118
Uk
Very nice. How long until you can fix tiles?

I think the bag said 45mins, but it still felt warmish to the touch and although you could walk on it I would leave it for another 45 mins as it was uniform in colour and rock hard by then.
 
L

LM

The tiler I used was recommended by the tile shop where I got the tiles from. He might be great at tiling (who knows) but he sucked at SLC!


Heres where I am with this. The SLC needs scraping up. However it cant be scraped right the way down to the insulation board for risk of damaging the boards. Having tested this i think we can scrape off close to the board. The SLC is approx 6mm in deepest part, the lower bit close to board seems firmer then the top, which is reassuring.


We will then prime and re-pour SLC to correct mix. In fact this time we will use a 2 part latex SLC because it comes with premeasured bottle. The floor will likely be bumpy and rough as a result so Im looking an experienced guy to do this.


Heres the next problem. Whoever I ring and ask “do you have experience with SLC” the reply is always; “ yeah ive done a bit here and there” or “I’ll do it but im not that great at it”. One guy said to me “if you expect a perfectly flat finish , you better find someone else”.


What the hell??! Is this job harder than Im led to believe?


Is there anyone on this forum that lives in Hertfordshire that could help me out??
Sorry to burst the bubble but the original pour of slc was of the wrong consistancy from the start and therefore compromised. Scrapping a bit off is worse than papering over the cracks and will eventually cost you even more money to put right once it fails. To rectify this properly you are going to have to remove all the default leveller and start again.
 
L

LM

Floor was screed, it varied in thickness as there was a supporting brick wall we took out between the arch and double doors and the original screed was falling in opposite directions.

Just used a spiked roller, helps get the air out and get it flat.

I will say though I used Topps Tiles fast track and it was really nice stuff and we were walking on this floor within the hour!
I highly recommend it.
I’ve used this before also and was pleasantly surprised by it.
 

Boggs

TF
Arms
Esteemed
4,729
1,118
Uk
The topps stuff is made by ultra. Does look identical to the f ball and tilemaster one though

I didn’t know that, my usual choice is Ultra 2 part so with this being so good it would make sense.
 

Boggs

TF
Arms
Esteemed
4,729
1,118
Uk
Just don’t buy it from a builders merchants they have no idea how to store anything, if you do chances are it will end up like the original job here,
Wow, looks great! Did you need to trowel it? Or just pour and spike roller?


Mix it mechanically on a slow speed, mixing from the point you slowly add the powder.

Keep a small handful of powder back from the mix as this makes it slightly more watery and helps with flow.

Clean the mixing buckets every 2nd mix otherwise it ends up too thick.

Pour the mix away from the edges and help it towards the corners with a trowel, don’t play around with it too much.

Use the spiked roller to get the air out and flatten the different pours together.

Simples!!
 

Reply to Self level compound poor job? in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com

Posting a tiling question to the forum? Post in Tilers' Talk if you are unsure which forum to post in. We'll move it if there's a more suitable forum.

Advertisement

Top