Quarry tiles over uneven bitumen floor. - TilersForums.com

[jonb]

I’m looking to put quarry tiles down in the kitchen in the rear part of my victorian terraced property. The existing floor surface is bitumen in the original part and screed in the newer (extension) part. The floor is pretty uneven (up to about 10mm, I think).


There is one small area in the newer floor which for some reason has not been concreted over (this was originally covered up inside a studwork cupboard, which I’ve removed); in this part bricks are visible, they’re about an inch under the concrete surface. They quite often seem slightly damp.


I was wondering what the best way of proceeding is. I was thinking, firstly somehow fill in the area where bricks are visible (but I’m not sure how to make sure the concrete bonds with that around it (maybe I could get some small steel bars in there, if they come in such small sizes). Then, secondly, level the whole floor using a self-levelling screed (the only complication I can see here is that some may not adhere to bitumen). Then finally, tile the floor once it’s level…


I’d be very grateful for any advice that anyone could offer.

 

[Dan]

Do you have any pictures of the said floor?

 

[jonb]

Here are a few photos of the floor

 

[p4ulo]

I think you need to put down a damp proof membrane down in the hole with the wet bricks, then pour a concrete onto it, it looks like there is a dpm in the edges of the floor next to it in the last picture??
Then.....I've always wanted to say this:

SBR Slurry coat painted onto the whole floor, then a SLC.
Then, a primer coat of SBR and you should be ready to tile....

Perhaps as you mention a bit of damp being seen, you should use Schluter Ditra or similar product under tiles?
This is how I'd do it.....but we await the experts......

 

[Dan]

I'd go with Schluter Ditra over the whole floor as that one when used with their tape and glue is a water barrier. Prime the floor well.

Is this two separate floor types or just where the bitumen ends?

 

[jonb]

Many thanks for the replies.

regarding the photo, Dan:
The floor is in two parts: the older original part is bitumen (in places overlaid with thin screed which doesn't seem well adhered and easy enough to remove), and the newer part (an extension) is concrete or screed. The photo is where they join. I think they had just knocked down an outside toilet which would have been on the end of the original house and the bricks are part of the foundation of that.

There is a damp proof membrane under the newer part, as P4ulo noted.

Ideally I'd like to level the floor too, as a novice tiler I think this would make the tiling process easier...

 

[Dan]

Many thanks for the replies.

regarding the photo, Dan:
The floor is in two parts: the older original part is bitumen (in places overlaid with thin screed which doesn't seem well adhered and easy enough to remove), and the newer part (an extension) is concrete or screed. The photo is where they join. I think they had just knocked down an outside toilet which would have been on the end of the original house and the bricks are part of the foundation of that.

There is a damp proof membrane under the newer part, as P4ulo noted.

Ideally I'd like to level the floor too, as a novice tiler I think this would make the tiling process easier...

You probably need an expansion joint in that area where the two floors meet. I'll let the lads confirm.

Sounds like a fair job thought that. Have you tiled before?

 

[jonb]

I've helped someone out tiling a small area of wall before, that was striaghtforward and the surface was flat. So this is going to be much more tricky..!

 

[Dan]

Might be worth perhaps getting a price from a professional?

If you need an expansion joint, two layers of adhesives, one layer of ditra, one layer of tiles, then repair works to the floor beforehand (perhaps SLC and then DPM adding to the 'hole') - you might find the total cost of materials to you, is the same as the total cost of materials to a tiler, and his labour, if he's kind enough to pass his trade discount onto you. Which is his/her choice I must say, but some do for the sake of avoiding hitting the VAT threshold and whatnot.

 

[jonb]

OK, thanks Dan. If it's going to be that involved then you're probably right, that'd be the way to go...