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Thats why most of us only do tiling mate:mad2:

Poor lad wish you lived near me so I could lend you my grinder.:grouphug:
 
At least if it was for real you'd be adding all this to the price. Interesting job this (unless you are doing it I guess!!) keep us posted!

Gaz
 
One stroke of luck tonight. My brothers' neighbours airing cupboard sprung a leak - circ pump isolation valve. Picked up a pair of valves from plumbers merchant, only 5 quid.
Drained down her system (took an hour), fitted new valves and refilled. One rad wouldn't get hot (airlock) sorted that and walked away with £125 and was fed a chicken curry. Result
----
Basin finally plumbed:
IMG_1146.jpg

Framework for bath panel:
IMG_1145.jpg

IMG_1143.jpg

IMG_1142.jpg

IMG_1141.jpg

Shower is finally installed. Made them change it for another model that had left hand entry for wires. Didn't need to remove tile, the shower control box now fits close to the wall so the shower hose/head is now central.
Got to finish last bit of skirting (2 pieces).
Grout floor
Tile bath panel (+ sort access)
Silicon

Can anyone give me advice for the correct use of a washboy - one for dummies please.
 
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One washboy tutorial coming up:

Fill the washboy with cold, clean water, so that it covers the grating by around 2-3 cm.

1. Wet/clean the sponge. If the float is dirty, you'll remove the "muck" by pressing against the grating.

2. Remove the excess water. Do this by going over the rollers with the sponge float once, then stopping with one end "flat" against the roller, and then "squeese" the end down on the roller, tilting the float to an angle of about 45 degrees. Repeat on the other end, and go over the rollers with the entire float again. If the sponge leaks water when going over the roller the last time, you need to repeat. You want the sponge float to be as clean as possible, and damp, not wet. To much water can damage the grouting mortar, making it brittle and unevenly coloured.

How to use the sponge float (my prefered technique):

Only grout and clean one surface at a time, and if it is large, you may want to divide it into sections. Doing this ensures the grout doesn't dry up to much. Bear in mind that you don't want the grout to be too fresh/wet either. If it is too wet, the additional water on the sponge will weaken the grout. You have to find a compromise between ease of cleaning, and the amount of time you wait before cleaning, up to a certain point. Wait to long after application and the job will be botched. Wait to little, and the grout will crumble after a few months.

Always begin from the top, or you'll have to go over the entire thing again just to clean away drippage.


1. Go over the tiles in a circular motion with the sponge float. Your objective in this stage isn't cleaning, but to even out the grout.

The circular motion also cleans away the worst excess, but leaves enough to work with when cleaning. Clean the sponge as needed, but not too often. Fill out any gaps in the grouting as needed. Often, you just need to use a finger.

2. When the grout is fairly even, you can start removing the excess grout. Do this by pressing the float firmly against the surface, and going slooowly in a horisontal motion. Start from the top. Clean just as you start noting the float leaving as "track".

Any dirty excess water drips downwards, and by keeping the motion horisontal, you clean the drip up as you go.

If there is a "film" on the tiles, wait a few minutes for the grout to become a little bit dryer to the touch, and go over the surface lightly with the float. Make sure it is just damp with clean water. To much water may weaken the grout; dirty water is counterproductive.


Cleaning grout is about finding a good compromise between speed and the quality of the result, which works for you and your way of working. Some techniques require loads of time, but produce perfect results, and vice versa.

I find that my technique is sufficiently fast for the most part, and the result is as close to perfect I can get within a reasonable amount of time.



When you're done grouting, empty the water somewhere you don't risk causing a blockage. In the bottom of the washboy, there will be a layer of cement. If it's new, it'll be lose, and you can scrape it out, or wash it out with a hose. If it's been there for a day or so, or if you've been doing lots of grouting, then you can "tap" it out, by putting the washboy upside down, and tapping with the handle of a trowel round the edges. Do not tap in the middle, as you might crack the plastic if you tap too hard.

I might add a few things later.

Cheers.


EDIT: Updated with a few clarifications
 
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Thankyou very much sWe.
When I am evening out the grout and you say go slowly horizontally - Shouldn't I be following the grout lines which are horizontal and vertical. Apologies if I'm being thick but I haven't finished my course yet and haven't done floor tiling yet.
 
Well, the purpose of that would be to smooth out the grout, but you do that with the circular motion. The circular motion also cleans away the worst excess, but leaves enough to work with when cleaning. The purpose of the horisontal motion is to clean away the excess smudge left on the tiles after you gone over with the circular motion once.

Also, any dirty water drips downwards, and by keeping the motion horisontal, you clean the drip up as you go.

This is what I prefer. If you experiment a bit, you might find something which works better for you.

Cleaning grout is about finding a good compromise between speed and the quality of the result, which works for you and your way of working. Some techniques require loads of time, but produce perfect results, and vice versa.

I find that my technique is sufficiently fast for the most part, and the result is as close to perfect I can get within a reasonable amount of time.

Final notes: Only grout and clean one surface at a time, and if it is large, you may want to divide it into sections. Doing this ensures the grout doesn't dry up to much. Bear in mind that you don't want the grout to be too fresh/wet either. If it is too wet, the additional water on the sponge will weaken the grout. You have to find a compromise between ease of cleaning, and the amount of time you wait before cleaning, up to a certain point. Wait to long after application and the job will be botched. Wait to little, and the grout will crumble after a few months.

Always begin from the top, or you'll have to go over the entire thing again just to clean away drippage.
 
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Nice job, put some pic's on when you have finished.
Just for intrest how much do you think it would have cost if it was a paying job ?

Anybody....:joker:
 
Nice job, put some pic's on when you have finished.
Just for intrest how much do you think it would have cost if it was a paying job ?

Anybody....:joker:
if you were getting a bathroom firm in you would be looking at 5 to 6 grand.


Well done macten you have done a fantastic job there m8,keep up the good work and your high standards...and im positive you wont be short of work:thumbsup:
 
I would price the job at about 3,500/4 grand inc mats except tiles. Most impressed with, of all things, your bath panel frame!! That ain't going to move. Good luck with the rest of the project. One tip if it's for a customer, VERY IMPORTANT, get half the money up front, at least one week in advance to clear cheque! it's a lot to lose if you have a dodgy customer.
 
Not much progress, I can feel myself lose motivation, must remember I'm on the home stretch. I get more encouragement from you guys than I do from the new owners of this bathroom. So thanks, it's greatly appreciated.
Shower in:
IMG_1157.jpg

Skirting tiles in and floor grouted:
IMG_1156.jpg

IMG_1155.jpg

Having tommorow off (well kitchen fitting with my dad actually) but I recon flatpack assembly will be a damn sight simpler than this has been.

Shall we have a sweepstake to see who guesses closest to the nearest pound how much I will eventually get for this job.
I'm guessing sweet FA bar my materials costs :disappointed:
 
you getting there mate....apart from the pennies just think how much you have learned.........:thumbsup:
 
Great job, if you dont get payed there loss as you wont be doing anymore jobs for them. Look on the bright side it will be a great start for your portfolio, at the mo im doing an NVQ plumbing course and if i can do a full bathroom job as good as you i will be well pleased, keep up the good work.

:joker:
 
Quick question guys. I have been doing the majority of the cuts on my wetsaw (24'' QEP Bridgesaw). Works a dream on the wall tiles but I have noticed that it had difficulty keeping a pefect line when cutting full tile on the floor tiles. It's as if the tile is pulling the blade 2-3mm to one side and has consequently eaten into the aluminium bed a little. This also, more often than not, caused the corner of the biscuit to break a little at the end of the cut.

I think the floor tiles are a glazed porcelain (porcellanato) but I would have thought the 200mm continuous diamond edge wheel should still have coped. It obviously doesn't so was wondering what wheel you guys would recommend - something I can rely on to cut owt I throw at it.
The arbor is 22.2mm.
Thanks
 
You can cut porcelain and porcellanato with a dry cutter, if you have one. Porcellanato eats scoring wheels though, so it pays to have one specifically for porcellanato.

As for the blade not keeping in line (wobbling?): The blade is most likely not optimised for what you're using it for. It's probably meant for softer ceramics, not the real hard stuff. You likely need a blade with a reinforced core. If that's not the problem, then it might be that your wet saw is not producing enough torque.

As for the "corner of the biscuit to break a little at the end of the cut"; flip the tile and try pre cutting a few centimeters, and then flip it back. That usually remedies the problem, as the stress on the tile gets a more even distribution.
 
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Thanks for that sWe.
The blade shows no sign of wobble it is just getting pulled off line with these floor tiles. So worried that the flipping idea might not work as it's doubtful that the 2 cuts will meet.
The motor is 900W and shows no sign of slowing down or change in sound and seems very powerful (it cuts the tile with ease) so not sure torques the problem.

Whats the difference between porcelain and porcellanato?
 
If the wet saw itself isn't the problem, I'd definatly say it's the blade.

I'm not entirely at home with the english definitions, but afaik, porcelain is sufficiently dense to absorb no more than 3% moisture, whereas porcellanato is so dense it absorbs no more than .5% moisture.
 
So are these the daddy of all tiles I'm cutting here?
My poor wet saw!
 
Thank God I've FINISHED!!
Thanks for all the ideas and support guys.
Placing the last tile:
IMG_1163.jpg

Grouted up and room siliconed:
IMG_1168.jpg

Access panel:
IMG_1169.jpg

Lopsided basin pedestal finally made straight:
IMG_1171.jpg


Makes me laugh and cry when I see this:
IMG_1026.jpg
 
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well if i must say mate..that is a very nice job.......well done............roll on the next one eh!!!
 
You should pat yourself on the back for that mate. you look like you have made a smashing job of that. Im new to tiling aswell so if my first paying job turns out as good as that then i will be proud.
Well done again mate.:thumbsup:
 
Fantastic posting, great tutorial and fabulous result...talk about cutting your teeth, reckon you have wisdom ones coming through now 10/10 Mac...keep watching for my kitchen tutorial due in April.....Gaz
 
looks like an absolutely beautiful job and to say it was your first you will definatly go far in this business:thumbsup: well done
 
I read somewhere on the site about the construction industry failing to provide honest tradesmen and the fact that there are people worried about the amount of seekers and cowboys in the trades. After nearly ten years in roofing following an accident im retraining to become a tiler and i too was worried about the amount of cowboys etc but i must admit, after reading through loads of posts and threads i couldnt be more wrong. Im glad i joined up to this site and witnessed what good spirited people you all are. i wish there was a site like this for roofers when i was roofing cause ive seen work that would make a cowboy look good:8: :yes: :thumbsup:
 
may i be really honest with you? looking at your pics tells me you will be fine in the long run,however,your family are p****ng up and down your leg. learn from it and in future price family work under mates rates.that way if you dont want it let them go elsewhere. but youwill be ok somenice work there well done!!
 
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I've been following this thread since day 1 with interest. It's been a really worthwhile contribution to the forum and thanks for sharing!

(It's a great feeling when it's finally done though eh?!)

:hurray::hurray::hurray:
 

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