Lining Up Walls And Floors

[Flintstone]

Who does it whenever possible? I do sometimes but I rarely try and match all 4 walls up with the floor. It often compromises the set out of the walls. Do you try and match up the end with the width with using 60x30 tiles?

 

[Ian]

I do it if possible, it's very rare I do a room that has the same tiles on the floor as the walls, so more often than not it's not possible. It is something I like to see, so given the chance (and if it doesn't compromise set out), I'll always do it.

 

[J Sid]

always, very, very rarely is it not possible . And have never found by doing so compromises the wall setting out, if it does then would rather see joints lined up.
as far as I am concerned, anyone who doesn't line floor and wall up should be first against the wall come the revolution.

 

[Flintstone]

The things I like to see are a full tile starting in the door way on the floor. Even cuts at each end of a wall or at each side of a window reveal.
Often you can end up with a small cut at one end of wall and a larger one at other end when lining joints up. Also, sometimes a tile that's 600 X 300, doesn't line up with the ends by the time you have the spacers in

 

[J Sid]

most 600x300 do match and if they don't its only buy a mm and can be hidden.
full tile for door don't approach a room with the setting out plan in your head )

 

[Old Mod]

I'll agree sometimes it's a bit like Hobson's choice, knackered, no matter which way you go.
But I definately always think that bonding the joints thro is the way to go.
I find clients are far more inclined to ignore the odd small'ish cut if they like the look of everything else.
And when u walk in to a room and the first thing u see is a floor nicely aligned with the back wall, typically the window wall, they're so impressed with what they see, they barely see anything else!
Cos let's be honest if you're greeted with that as a first impression, it instantly tells you that the jobs been thought about professionally.

Totally get what you're saying about tiles on their short side being exactly half of the length of their long side, yeah you can be pretty stuffed.
But not always.
You can always tighten the floor joint half a mil and open the wall joint half a mil, that kinda thing.
So if u are stuffed, in that instance I'll still line the floor with the back wall as you go in, so it looks like they start at the door and finish at the ceiling.
That's what impresses I feel.
Then on the side walls I'll break the bond completely, won't even try and get it to work.
I feel it's better to have a total broken bond as appossd to almost getting it, but not.
That makes it look like u've tried to bond the walls and floors but failed.
If u completely break the bond, then it's obvious that it's deliberate!
Good setting out is, for me, one of the most important aspects of the job.
It shows u care and take pride in your work, and if a client thinks you care, then other little miss demeanours get ignored, cos they actually believe u care as much as they do.
Not always the case obviously but often.
Full tile at the door is great, not always achievable tho,
and to be blunt, ain't about what u like, it's what's best for the client!

 

[Time's Ran Out]

always, very, very rarely is it not possible . And have never found by doing so compromises the wall setting out, if it does then would rather see joints lined up.
as far as I am concerned, anyone who doesn't line floor and wall up should be first against the wall come the revolution.

Couldn't have said it better apart from upsetting others, and the bit about the firing squad come the revolution straight out of Wolfie Smith!

 

[Flintstone]

most 600x300 do match and if they don't its only buy a mm and can be hidden.
full tile for door don't approach a room with the setting out plan in your head )

Don't tell me how to approach a job. Nobody wants a cut tile in the doorway into there bathroom

 

[Flintstone]

I'll agree sometimes it's a bit like Hobson's choice, knackered, no matter which way you go.
But I definately always think that bonding the joints thro is the way to go.
I find clients are far more inclined to ignore the odd small'ish cut if they like the look of everything else.
And when u walk in to a room and the first thing u see is a floor nicely aligned with the back wall, typically the window wall, they're so impressed with what they see, they barely see anything else!
Cos let's be honest if you're greeted with that as a first impression, it instantly tells you that the jobs been thought about professionally.

Totally get what you're saying about tiles on their short side being exactly half of the length of their long side, yeah you can be pretty stuffed.
But not always.
You can always tighten the floor joint half a mil and open the wall joint half a mil, that kinda thing.
So if u are stuffed, in that instance I'll still line the floor with the back wall as you go in, so it looks like they start at the door and finish at the ceiling.
That's what impresses I feel.
Then on the side walls I'll break the bond completely, won't even try and get it to work.
I feel it's better to have a total broken bond as appossd to almost getting it, but not.
That makes it look like u've tried to bond the walls and floors but failed.
If u completely break the bond, then it's obvious that it's deliberate!
Good setting out is, for me, one of the most important aspects of the job.
It shows u care and take pride in your work, and if a client thinks you care, then other little miss demeanours get ignored, cos they actually believe u care as much as they do.
Not always the case obviously but often.
Full tile at the door is great, not always achievable tho,
and to be blunt, ain't about what u like, it's what's best for the client!

I agree! Lining up the floor with the main wall, is great, and normally no compromise, but lining the floor up with all 4 walls normally ends up with the walls having very odd cuts at each end and not looking great

 

[LM]

I'm ordering popcorn