Dry Lining (dot and dabbing)

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tjsmiler

Guys i am doing a bathroom in a couple of weeks. On the wall that runs alongside the bath tub is a massive indent (too much to pack out with adhesive) normally i would try and bring it out level with AM100 but i often find that it is still not enough.

The walls at the mo are painted and was wondering if i could just cut out a big peice of plasterboard and dot and dab the whole wall to make it nice and smooth. I think this would be so much faster and produce a better finnish as well as being cheaper and neater.

Can anyone explain why this may or may not be a good idea or offer any other advice/tricks.

Thanks all

TJ
 
Cheers Tony, and all this time i have been pratting about with these bent walls when all the time i could have just stuck a bit of plasterboard on it.

How long you been tiling Tony??
 
Build plasterboard out though.Worked on a bathroom 4 yrs ago,all I could here from kitchen was,BA****D,F**K,SH**.Dinnertime went downstairs for butty and investigate.Punters dad was tiling kitchen wall moaning like hell,"whats up" Walls are sh** he said ,Aye bloody plasterers bain of me life I said,who did it he said with a sorry look "ME"
 
I want to dot and dab some aqua board in a shower area........it's only small and the tiles are ceramic. The surface is plaster, it's all warped but is very solid so i wanted to straighten it up using this method. I was going to just dab the back of the aqua board with plenty of rapidset adhesive and slap it against the walls.

Do you lot think this would be ok??

Cheers lovelys

TJ
 
I want to dot and dab some aqua board in a shower area........it's only small and the tiles are ceramic. The surface is plaster, it's all warped but is very solid so i wanted to straighten it up using this method. I was going to just dab the back of the aqua board with plenty of rapidset adhesive and slap it against the walls.

Do you lot think this would be ok??

Cheers lovelys

TJ
Absolutey no problen TJ,we sell 6mm thick boards,give plaster a coat of BAL bond though,and with any boards always wash dust off with wet sponge first before dabbing on or tiling onto.If you stick tiles on with bucket adhesive ,just a damp sponge wipe will do,no need to prime:wink_smile:
 
Your a superstar Gaz.....thanks again mate :wink_smile: :wink_smile:

Also (just out of interest) when i am doing a kitchen backsplash, if the surface is slightly rough i sometimes skim it with a rapid setting adhesive, just to smooth it off a bit. Could i also do this with a much larger area, say for example a wall that is 10m2. I am not going to do this on this particular job but i think it's worth knowing for future jobs.

The more tricks about straightening walls the better i think.

Cheers gang

TJ
 
No probs if it's easier.You will find that as you develop your floating - on skills,your tecnique with the float will become more natural and you will feel how much to apply and that you are getting it flat,this will only come in good time..I just got brilliant at it ....and then retired!!!!:wink_smile:
 
No probs if it's easier.You will find that as you develop your floating - on skills,your tecnique with the float will become more natural and you will feel how much to apply and that you are getting it flat,this will only come in good time..I just got brilliant at it ....and then retired!!!!:wink_smile:

Thanks Gaz....you have probably just saved me a load of time on some future jobs.....i have done a few where i have prated about with AM100 and although i think it's great stuff, i do find it hard to get the wall level with it. I think i would probably find it easier with just normall rapidset. so thanks again mate

TJ
 
Thanks Gaz....you have probably just saved me a load of time on some future jobs.....i have done a few where i have prated about with AM100 and although i think it's great stuff, i do find it hard to get the wall level with it. I think i would probably find it easier with just normall rapidset. so thanks again mate

TJ
Anytime TJ :wink_smile:
 

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