Kitchen Splashback Layout - Tile Advice

[BigJ]

Evening all,

My first post here so please be gentle with me!

I'm redoing the kitchen and after some advice for the splashback. We're looking at flat brick style tiles, nothing too fancy (probably these from Walls & Floors). The old tiles are mostly coming off fine, having been stuck on to painted walls! A few things I've learnt from reading on here:

Strip all that paint off the walls first
Prime
Don't 'dot & dab'
Get the layout right before leaping in...

So, a couple of questions, below is a pic of the current layout which seems a bit random! They seem to have tiled up to the wall unit where they have to and then gone back to the nearest whole tile for the rest of it - is that usual or lazy? Should I tile all the way horizontally at the level of the bottom of the wall unit? How far out to the right should I go - to the edge of the worktop, or all the way out and into the door recess (which you can just about see on the far right of the pic)? At the other ends they have similarly tiled to the nearest whole tile giving random gaps to the edge of the worktop ends and units!

Secondly, what sort of adhesive should I be using, can I use a tubbed ady for this?

Thirdly....I know it's recommended to batten and tile from that, but I'll be making pretty damn sure that the worktop is straight when it goes in, can I tile up from that instead?

I was thinking of using a white square section trim (not flat) but can't find any pics of it in use and the Mrs isn't sure - has anyone got a decent shot of it in use?

Many thanks in advance for your help!

John

 

[White Room]

I take it the tiles that are fixed at the moment will removed...

 

[Gazzer]

Yes tile off the worktop, never seen white square trim....yes seen the flat stuff. Cube chrome trim looks good as does the brushed version.
They have finished short of the edge of the worktop due to the light switch...lazy !
I would take tiling up to level of the wall cupboards or above but if you are fitting the kitchen you could tile then sit the bottom of wall units at the height you choose, usually between 450mmm and 500mm off worktop.

 

[BigJ]

Thanks...yes, the tiles are coming off (those ones already have). I hadn't considered the light switch - if I tile up to the edge of the worktop then the tiles will finish half way across the switch which would look odd I guess! Best to move it either left or up a bit?
I am fitting the units, so yes, I could position the units so that they line up with whole tiles - hadn't considered that either!

 

[Gazzer]

Yes move the switch either way to suit, you could even have it in the tiling if need be, not my choice though.

 

[StevieBoy]

I'd tile 5 courses high, move the switch so it finishes just above the top row, and tile to the end of the worktop.
You can sit your wall units on top.

Personally if it was me, I'd use a powdered slow set addy.

 

[p4ulo]

Sounds like you've had some top advice already, moving the light switch could be a pain, but definitely worth doing.
When setting out, consider what you are likely to do at the window sill too, you don't want to have to cut a thin piece of tile anywhere, you might be lucky and be bale to use a whole tile laid horizontally.
What kind of cutter have you got? Might need a disc / wet cutter for fiddly bits.
Go slow and get it right.
You could use a tubbed adhesive such as BAL Green Star, no problems on a splashbach (but don't use it if you need to build up anything (windowsill for example) cos it doesn't set like powder adhesive if used thick!!
Good luck, keep the pictures coming!!

 

[BigJ]

Thanks chaps, much appreciated, will keep you posted. The tiles on the window sill took a half inch of plaster with them, so I'll need to sort that out before tiling.