Brick slips on dot and dab plastered wall - options? - Tile Advice

[Tom4blues]

Hi all,

Doing our kitchen renovation and would really like to use some brick slips, for the 3 recessed sections (angled to the left, chimney recess and large section to the right)

The wall has been boarded with dab adhesive, with a skim over the top with 1 paint coat over a mist. I did a search and couldn’t find anything similar, probably as nobody else is stupid enough to do this in the first place! Stupidly we knew we wanted brick slips before and hindsight is a wonderful thing.

Brick slips are approx 30kg/m2 which I know is over the suggested weight capacity, has anyone overcome such a problem before?

Options I was hoping may work are:

1. Screw though dabs with plugged 60mm drywall screws, and squirt some grab adhesive in some new holes with a plugged screw also. Scrape off/key the paint.
2. Screw some hardibacker to the brickwork with some plugged screws.

Can anyone offer any thoughts on the above? Unfortunately taking it all off isn’t an option due to the ceiling joint and walls either side, and building it out with batten isn’t an option either due to cooker/worktop depth etc.

Thanks kindly in advance,
Tom

 

[Boggs]

Remove the paint first, easiest way is with a wallpaper stripper, the emulsion will scrape off no problems, and prime bare plaster with SBR.
Then I would fix 4mm Delta board with a troweled layer of cement based tile adhesive and fixed through to the brick/block with screws, plugs and 35mm washers.

Then you should be good for fixing your brick slips

 

[Tom4blues]

Remove the paint first, easiest way is with a wallpaper stripper, the emulsion will scrape off no problems, and prime bare plaster with SBR.
Then I would fix 4mm Delta board with a troweled layer of cement based tile adhesive and fixed through to the brick/block with screws, plugs and 35mm washers.

Then you should be good for fixing your brick slips

Hi Boggs,

Thanks for the reply, good to see that all may not be lost!

Gather that I could let the cement adhesive go off before adding the screws.

What sort of length screws would you go for and would they need to be anything in particular so as to not react. Think the dab gap is around 20mm. Also what centres would you recommend?

Thanks again for the advice!

 

[Boggs]

Fixings at 300mm centres, 3 across and 5 down on a 1200mm x 600mm board.
I would use a 70mm or so stainless steel screw they are readily available at Screwfix

 

[Tom4blues]

Fixings at 300mm centres, 3 across and 5 down on a 1200mm x 600mm board.
I would use a 70mm or so stainless steel screw they are readily available at Screwfix

Cheers, that sounds good and makes sense.

Had a look and get the feeling I can’t easily get hold of delta board unfortunately, seems more likely to be hardiebacker that’s readily available. Trust that it’s not too much of an issue.
Would you be scrim taping and filling the joints before applying the adhesive for slips?

 

[Boggs]

I wouldn’t bother with Hardie, it’s a bit more difficult to get flat on walls and you need to be careful with the dust when cutting.

Have a look at @Tile Fix Direct who are forum sponsors or Pro Tiler Tools websites, I would think either would supply what you need and even with the delivery charge would be cheaper than Topps, Wickes etc without a trade account.

 

[Tile Fix Direct]

Thanks Boggs.
Suggest you use Orbry board to Boggs spec. i.e. scrape paint off, SBR, cement based adhesive then fix Orrby with Spankers (easier than screw and rawplug). Watch out for cables though! Ideally use 10mm thickness Orbry board, but you would get away with 6mm, but do not skimp on Spanker positioning. Consider how you are going to finish at exposed edges.

Orbry Waterproof Insulated Tile Backer Board (1220mm x 600mm)

Shop Orbry Tile Backer Boards from Tile Fix. Find Orbry products in our huge range of cement boards and tiling supplies. Free delivery on orders over £375ex.

www.tilefixdirect.com

Orbry Tile Backer Boards & Insulation Cob Plug Fixing Dowels

Orbry Spanker Universal Insulation Expansion Fixing Dowels from Tile Fix. Find Orbry products in our huge range of Insulation Fixing and Wet Room Supplies. Free delivery on orders over £375ex.

www.tilefixdirect.com

 

[Tom4blues]

Cheers gents, i appreciate the advice and the guidance given.

Having thought about it a little more, i was thinking of whether i could mechanically fix the tile backer boards using Corefix fixings.

If you are not aware, Corefix are basically plugged screws which have a steel tubular insert which bridges the gap from screw head and into the brick, therefore bridging the void. 4 fixings give a weight bearing capacity of around 100kg/m2, so enough for board, addy & slips.

My thinking is if i were to use some grab adhesive to initially hold boards in place, use these corefix fixings with 35mm washers in spacing as per traditional mechanical fixings ie 12/15 per sheet (overkill in know but achieves even distrobution) i would not necessarily need to scrape off paint, prime, and adhere the boards to the plasterboard, as the corefix fixing bridges the dot and dab void and the weight of the brick slips would be bearing on the corefix fixings. The plasterboard & dabs would merely be a guide for the backer board to be flat and straight.

Appreciate that this is not conventional at all, but feel that the problem i created for myself isn't either. It works out about cost neutral to the proposals you've kindly given but would be less mess, clean up and i am more comfortable with a drill in hand than hence why i am considering it.

Any thoughts? (i will get my shield ready)

p.s i don't work for corefix, but have seen some vids on youtube which seem to have a decent write up.

 

[Tile Fix Direct]

You would need to ensure the washers are galvanised and ideally the screws galvanised or rust resistant. The fixings would need to penetrate the wall behind the void. The Orbry Spankers can also achieve this.

 

[Time's Ran Out]

All in one innocent post - screws - penetrate - spankers!!
I must have spent too long in site huts at break time.

 

[Tom4blues]

Noted regarding the galvanised washers & screws. The screws are zinc plated which i think is sufficient enough? (only exposure i forsee is the adhesive on top).

Still in two minds whether to sand/scrape/prime and adhere to boards to the plasterboard, as appreciate this was the suggested method. My only worry with this was that by bonding the boards to the plasterboard this would apply strain to the plasterboard, whereas keeping them more separate would rely more on the mechanical fixing which i have confidence in.

I may just say sod it and do both, as i am probably over thinking it.

 

[Perry]

Cut the plasterboard out and replace.