bowed floor boards

[doug boardley]

it'd come loose enough to cause an annoying squeek when you walk over it:lol: altho' this probably won't affect the amtico, it could be remedied if screwed and not nailed imo

 

[tfs]

it'd come loose enough to cause an annoying squeek when you walk over it:lol: altho' this probably won't affect the amtico, it could be remedied if screwed and not nailed imo

Doug,

just try to imagine a scew head (this alone is about 3mm depth) when working with this type of flooring you generaly use a 6mm ply.

After screwing this ply you need to counter sink ever so slightly at the very least it needs to be flush with the surface of the ply.

After taking this into account you only have about2 or 3mm at the most between the underside of the ply and the head of the screw. You would need to take great care not drive the screw too far though thre ply unlike thick ply where you do have the play to countersink a bit.

This doesnbt give you much play as the ply is realy thin compared to 12, 15 or 18mm ply that we work with in tiling.

Anular rings will be driven in to be flush with the surface and have a flat head which hold the ply in place.

nailing is deffo not as effective as screws long term but, nailing is more practical in this case.

 

[tfs]

it'd come loose enough to cause an annoying squeek when you walk over it:lol: altho' this probably won't affect the amtico, it could be remedied if screwed and not nailed imo

Any loose floor boards should be screwed before ply is fittied. All the sub floor should be dealy with accordingly before any installation just as with tiles. We dont just ply over floor boords without ensuring the floor is sound first.

Just as I mentioned at the begining of this post.:8:

 

[doug boardley]

I was referring to the ply squeeking, not the floorboards

 

[brian c]

how do you feather the edges of the ply?

 

[tfs]

how do you feather the edges of the ply?

With a mortar repair compound trowelled over all the joints. Most popular is STOPGAP microcoat and the Ardex brand.

 

[tfs]

I was referring to the ply squeeking, not the floorboards

As mentioned previoulsy, as a precuationary approach you can also use gripfill or no nails etc to give an extra bond between the floor and the ply which would be an additional support to the ply.

At the end of the day if a floor squeek due to something happening then what can you do? 'it can happen after time' whether you lay tile, laminate or whatever

 

[tfs]

tfs have to check out f ball tech...

so tfs you would screed first before overlaying with ply? what self leveling compound would you recommend to go directly onto the floorboards?

so have i done mine the wrong way round! would have thought it was quicker to ply first...what with all the gaps to fill between floorboards

Ive had a wee look at some of the stopgap products and it would appear that stopgap green bag would be suitable for patch screeding (this is a two part screed used with a latex or acrylic liquid.

The other is a water mixed screed ( Stopgap 700) which it says is made especialy for use over ply

 

[brian c]

once you do this do you then sand it...just curious ..never done it before so not in the know...cheers for the education.(tfs)

 

[tfs]

once you do this do you then sand it...just curious ..never done it before so not in the know...cheers for the education.(tfs)

Yes you can but, it feathers pretty well to be honest so usual;y dont need to do this. When you use as a repiar compound you often need to smooth it with a carbonundum block or something.

You put it on thin and it dries within approx 15min or so