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Discuss Bathroom floor prep prior to tiling in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

P

ParrDi Gras

Hi Guys

Ive recently completed my bathroom and en-suite and unfortunatley after laying down a very expensive high gloss laminate floor into both rooms the wife has decided she doesnt like it?? :oops:

Therefore she has now decided she wants it tiled. Both rooms have 22mm tongue and groove Wateproof boards as the floor and are well screwed and secured. Little bit of deviation in the en-suite (2-3mm) .

I have 12mm hardibacker boards around all the walls (previously reccommended) tiled floor to ceiling. I wish to tile both floors and if anyone could suggest the best way to go about this I would really appreciate it.

The main bathroom is 2.4m x 1.9m, the en-suite is 2.4m x 1.6m, also a bit bothered on how I could overcome the step at the doors .

cheers guys , youv'e probably been asked the same questions a thousand times :thumbsup:
 
D

DHTiling

Hi..welcome to tilers forums.

As long as the floor is virtually deflection free , then you can use Hardi backer 250(6mm) on the floors..

This will create a nice stable substrate to tile to, and no worries about thermal/moisture expansion issues which can be associated with overboarding with plywood..:thumbsup:
 

Andy Allen

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Hi..welcome to tilers forums.

As long as the floor is virtually deflection free , then you can use Hardi backer 250(6mm) on the floors..

This will create a nice stable substrate to tile to, and no worries about thermal/moisture expansion issues which can be associated with overboarding with plywood..:thumbsup:
hi dave; can hadi backer 6mm be used on any floor boards or dose it have to be tongue and grove?
 
P

peckers

hi dave; can hadi backer 6mm be used on any floor boards or dose it have to be tongue and grove?
As long as the floor is solid and there is no bounce/deflection and it is completely secure and screwed down then Hardi backer boards can be used on wooden floor boards that aren't tongue and grooved. hardi backer board is giving you a good substrate to tile onto that is moisture resistant.
But it is not used to strengthen your floors :thumbsup:
 
D

DHTiling

Yes any timber substrate but remember to use an adhesive bed under the boards to fill any irregularities, and screw down tight.
 
R

Rich

Hello ParrDi. :welcome:
If you are worried about the step in the door way, could you remove the 22mm boards and replace with thinner boards then use the 6mm backeder ontop of that? Once youv got the backer board down (as Dave says, screw down tight and use an adhesive bed under the voards) take the time to set the room out. If you can try to centralise the room both ways without having small cuts. You will need a single part flexi adhesive to tile onto the backer board. As you tile the floors keep checking that you are square and level and wash off any adhesive from the face of the tiles and inbetween the tiles, make sure you leave the floor to set fully (setting times will be on the bag of adhesive) then grout the floor in, same goes try to clean up as you go.:thumbsup:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
P

ParrDi Gras

Cheers for the advise guys , just a couple more questions:

Ive just took up the laminate which was 18mm thick ( bloody expensive as well:thumbsdown:) , the door casing to the bathroom is off and I would have no problems shaving the doors if the tiled floor ends up thicker so im just goning to use a laminate floor reducer as the adjoining rooms are real wood and the other is carpet so this on top would help to finish the step off.

What are the best screws and adhesive to use for the hardibacker board, went and bought the 6mm today but they didnt have any hardibacker screws any alternatives or should I hunt for them.
 

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