dot and dab

[Italy]

I read the trends, what to say ?.
Here in Italy, the story is different, all the walls are sand and cement, or similar.
90% of the works have crooked walls, then perfection is achieved only as said @Ste450 . I use the same +/- the same system, only add a layer of adhesive with the toothed blade, before application. Unfortunately, the advent of large formats requires me mostly the same system and also confirm that the tile is more clinging with this system, the only tiles that I saw fall from the walls were only applied with a serrated blade.
I'm not talking to pose with (dab or whatever the cazzo you say), he's talking about a draft of 80/90% of adhesive, the tile and beating with a rubber hammer.
with a thickness of 10mm limit, otherwise proceed with a shaving before installation, this system is not applicable with small sizes, with smaller sizes, proceed with shaving of the walls.
speaking of history, in the early days that I started, the tiles were applied with lime and the process is +/- the same, then? . Now what do we do? If they are not worthy to call me pro tiler, remove to me all the colored badge, is not a problem for me. I'm just more than 30 years that I do this job, no one has ever called me to tell me, the tiles are falling off the wall, it's just luck ?. maybe yes.
P.S. internal shower, should be cared much more to prevent water seepage and thin tiles with this system is NOT APPLICABLE.

 

[LM]

Just to clarify then, dot and dabing is not the same as solid bedding within adhesive limits ??















Lol

 

[Ste450]

I read the trends, what to say ?.
Here in Italy, the story is different, all the walls are sand and cement, or similar.
90% of the works have crooked walls, then perfection is achieved only as said @Ste450 . I use the same +/- the same system, only add a layer of adhesive with the toothed blade, before application. Unfortunately, the advent of large formats requires me mostly the same system and also confirm that the tile is more clinging with this system, the only tiles that I saw fall from the walls were only applied with a serrated blade.
I'm not talking to pose with (dab or whatever the cazzo you say), he's talking about a draft of 80/90% of adhesive, the tile and beating with a rubber hammer.
with a thickness of 10mm limit, otherwise proceed with a shaving before installation, this system is not applicable with small sizes, with smaller sizes, proceed with shaving of the walls.
speaking of history, in the early days that I started, the tiles were applied with lime and the process is +/- the same, then? . Now what do we do? If they are not worthy to call me pro tiler, remove to me all the colored badge, is not a problem for me. I'm just more than 30 years that I do this job, no one has ever called me to tell me, the tiles are falling off the wall, it's just luck ?. maybe yes.
P.S. internal shower, should be cared much more to prevent water seepage and thin tiles with this system is NOT APPLICABLE.

I always use a botched trowel with smaller

I read the trends, what to say ?.
Here in Italy, the story is different, all the walls are sand and cement, or similar.
90% of the works have crooked walls, then perfection is achieved only as said @Ste450 . I use the same +/- the same system, only add a layer of adhesive with the toothed blade, before application. Unfortunately, the advent of large formats requires me mostly the same system and also confirm that the tile is more clinging with this system, the only tiles that I saw fall from the walls were only applied with a serrated blade.
I'm not talking to pose with (dab or whatever the cazzo you say), he's talking about a draft of 80/90% of adhesive, the tile and beating with a rubber hammer.
with a thickness of 10mm limit, otherwise proceed with a shaving before installation, this system is not applicable with small sizes, with smaller sizes, proceed with shaving of the walls.
speaking of history, in the early days that I started, the tiles were applied with lime and the process is +/- the same, then? . Now what do we do? If they are not worthy to call me pro tiler, remove to me all the colored badge, is not a problem for me. I'm just more than 30 years that I do this job, no one has ever called me to tell me, the tiles are falling off the wall, it's just luck ?. maybe yes.
P.S. internal shower, should be cared much more to prevent water seepage and thin tiles with this system is NOT APPLICABLE.

Thank you Antonio, someone who understands. Of course with smaller tiles and mosaics, I'll use a notched trowel, but these days larger tiles are more commonly being used. Larger tiles are more commonly bowed as well, especially Villroy Boch which the largest tile I've laid was around 1200/500mm. The only way to get it so every joint is perfectly flush is to use this method, I don't want my joints out a 2/3mm or more, 1mm at the most.

In wet areas, obviously strive for 100% but your near enough always going to get a few small voids. I've read that wet areas take 6 months to dry out so any water caught in these small voids will find their way to the drain through gravity. With wet areas any problem will arise almost immediately after use. I tested one a few years back on a raised wet area. At the drain, I restricted the flow of water underneath the tiled surface and waited to see how long it would take for it to come through the ceiling (this is on my friends home with his consent) it wasn't long before water came through. After I put it back to normal...no problems at all there on

 

[Andy Allen]

How do you key the adhesive to the substrate if your just put loads of blobs on the tile?

 

[Ste450]

How do you key the adhesive to the substrate if your just put loads of blobs on the tile?

When you firmly push the tile onto the wall, the adhesive spreads out underneath, giving good coverage and a high bond. With all those badges you have on here, how can you not understand this concept or how adhesive adheres to a given substrate, it's simple stuff. Go and test it for yourself. Use a cement based rapid setting adhesive (Mapei Pro flex) The next day try and pull the tile off the wall...you'll bring all the plasterboard with it or if on a solid wall, you'll have to chisel it off. Do you not understand how drywall dot and dab works or how the adhesive bonds to the brick/block and plasterboard?

 

[Ste450]

When you firmly push the tile onto the wall, the adhesive spreads out underneath, giving good coverage and a high bond. With all those badges you have on here, how can you not understand this concept or how adhesive adheres to a given substrate, it's simple stuff. Go and test it for yourself. Use a cement based rapid setting adhesive (Mapei Pro flex) The next day try and pull the tile off the wall...you'll bring all the plasterboard with it or if on a solid wall, you'll have to chisel it off. Do you not understand how drywall "dot and dab" works...how the adhesive bonds to both block/brick and plasterboard?

 

[Andy Allen]

I won't be trying it....thanks..
Probably tile the whole bathroom by the time you've 'blobbed' a couple of tiles !!

 

[Ste450]

I won't be trying it....thanks..
Probably tile the whole bathroom by the time you've 'blobbed' a couple of tiles !!

 

[Tile Shop]

No need for anyone to be confrontational and hissy. Everyone here knows dot'n'dab can fail and we've seen the pictures to prove it. Its going to take a miracle for you to convince others it's ok. You just have to show everyone your method is different to the dot'n'dab that we all know and hate and that it works.

British Standards is a code of practice. They "recommend" spreading the adhesive so thats what everyone is going to do. If anything ever goes to court, that is the definitive black and white that they'll lean on. And if its not been done, prepare to duck the book when its thrown at you. Spreading is also part of the foundations for many of the adhesive manufacturers guarantees. Ignore that and you ain't got a claim if anything goes ****.

Personally I can still see it being quicker with a trowel. If it needs bedding out, spread the wall/floor and the tiles to double the bed depth. Or even "hover" the trowel away from the wall/floor to increase depth. Or better still, correct the wall/floor before starting.

But saying all that, you'll have a slim chance of convincing more people (even though they won't adopt the method) if you take pictures to back it up. One with the dabs and how you set them out, one with the tile fixed flat ideally showing the bed depth from the side, and another after you have just lifted it to prove the coverage you have obtained.

Then maybe we can move on and argue about something else. like which is better, Sigma or Rubi.............





I'll get me coat!

 

[Ste450]

I won't be trying it....thanks..
Probably tile the whole bathroom by the time you've 'blobbed' a couple of tiles !!

Well all I can say is that you asked me how I get my adhesive to key to a substrate, I've told you what I do then I've advised you to go see for yourself. I didn't ask you to tile a whole bathroom using this method, I simply advised you that you should TEST 1 tile out for yourself...

If your asking questions on how adhesive keys to a substrate, then you're clearly not qualified to give out advice on it