Setting Out...again - Tile Advice

[macten]

Large kitchen splashy, 2 windows (one really long) and probably going to be a metro like tile
From worktop to sills is about 11 - 11.5cm so when I was round there I explained common size for those types of tiles are 10x20s and showed why that would mean an aesthetic compromise somewhere and to try and find a tile 7.5 or 12.5 high she liked if possible. It looks like customer's heart is set on a 10x20 she has found.
Now my question is would you (like I have in the past) raised the sills as much as the window frame will allow to make the slither cut as big as it can possibly be (still going to be a thin cut though) or would you even consider less than full tile off the worktop or maybe a combination of both. Can't imagine anything less than full tile off worktop - especially metros, would look worse.

Bisel Sage

Those are the tiles she likes so my other question is does anyone know of a similar tile in a more suitable size?

Thanks

 

[Old Mod]

What about raising the tile off worktop a few mill then just lowering the front of the sill and ramping it back up toward window if you're not able to take too much out if the sill.
I'd def be looking at lowering rather than building up, as u say it'll still give crappy cut.

 

[macten]

I'll certainly have a go with my hammer and bolster at the sill to see if it's feasible to lower it significantly - happy days if that's the case but if past experience is anything to go by they'll be little to be gained - usually beading straight on blockwork.

 

[WetSaw]

What are the sills made of? Painted or not? If painted wood could you possibly chop the nose off and fix a deeper bullnose?

 

[macten]

Sills are just plastered at moment (new extension) and will be tiling them. Good idea for future reference though pdc.

 

[Al@Lifetiles]

Just a thought. You could try a "soldier course" i.e. flipping the bottom row of tiles on their end ( portrait rather than landscape?) Gets over the cill height problem and you can carry on as normal on next course. The grout lines should still match up

 

[Time's Ran Out]

If you plan to cut the front of the wooden cill off in the future and tile over, the heat from the sun will cause it to move/crack and need replacing. Always worth building up with plasterboard.
You should be able to reduce the height of the cill even if it's the case of taking a brick course out and rebuilding up - but as always there's a cost involved in perfection!

 

[p4ulo]

I've got the same dilemma in my own kitchen, so far the best compromise I've come up with to the window cill (haven't even thought about rest of the room) is to start off the worktop with a tile cut exactly in half (therefore not too wastey as able to use both halves for same thing) which will leave me with a full tile at cill edge.

 

[macten]

If you plan to cut the front of the wooden cill off in the future and tile over, the heat from the sun will cause it to move/crack and need replacing. Always worth building up with plasterboard.
You should be able to reduce the height of the cill even if it's the case of taking a brick course out and rebuilding up - but as always there's a cost involved in perfection!

True John, but I believe pdc's suggestion was on the basis of there being a wooden sill in place and so didn't require tiling - not tile over a wooden sill.
I've let the customer know about compromise if she wants that size tile. I know for a fact she won't go down the extra expense of me taking a course of bricks out and to be honest I wouldn't want to do that - surely I'd also have to remove the row of outer skin bricks the windows are sat on?
From my emails with her I think she got the impression that small cuts would be a nightmare for me to cut and fix and I've explained that it's no hassle for me but just won't look as nice. Up to her at the end of the day

 

[macten]

I've got the same dilemma in my own kitchen, so far the best compromise I've come up with to the window cill (haven't even thought about rest of the room) is to start off the worktop with a tile cut exactly in half (therefore not too wastey as able to use both halves for same thing) which will leave me with a full tile at cill edge.

I've done exactly that once before and it looked really good - obviously not ideal but was definitely the best compromise. Just don't think it would look good doing that with metros (being bevel edged and all)

 

[p4ulo]

I've done exactly that once before and it looked really good - obviously not ideal but was definitely the best compromise. Just don't think it would look good doing that with metros (being bevel edged and all)

True @macten , I've got XL metro style flat faced tiles to do it with so hopefully it will work....
Don't see why it wouldn't work with the metros with bevel edge, maybe do a trial with her and the different options and see where she lands.....?

 

[Flintstone]

I would never start with a cut on a work top. I would build the sill up as much as possible. I wouldn't start chopping it off

 

[Diggy]

Raise the cill imho. Usually plenty of room , especially if you can see the back edge of the window board.

Diggy

 

[macten]

Raise the cill imho. Usually plenty of room , especially if you can see the back edge of the window board.

Diggy

There's enough frame on show to put a piece of plasterboard on - so can only raise it about 13mm - this is still going to leave a slithery cut.

 

[WetSaw]

a slithery cut.

I had to read that twice, I thought you were describing a politician...