P
posher
Is it possible to lay travertine floor tiles over an existing sound ceramic floor tile and if so what preparation is needed?
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T
The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP
It is not really advisable to tiie on tile. Mainly because there is no way of knowing how well fixed the existing tiles are. If you dicide to risk it anyway, I would suggest Mapei keraquck with latex plus.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
D
Deleted member 9966
Probably not the best of ideas posher. there's a ton of reasons why not. I'll let some of the other members explain
:welcome: to the forum by the way.
see ^^^^^^^^ Phil hits the nail on the head there
:welcome: to the forum by the way.
see ^^^^^^^^ Phil hits the nail on the head there
D
david campbell
not got practice mate!
what for any reason the existing tiles de-bond?
your heights will come up almost 20mm under doors!
all cuts will have to be absolutely perfect unless you are removing the facings!
but if you decide to go for it i would also use keraquick and mapei ultracolour jasmine grout
what for any reason the existing tiles de-bond?
your heights will come up almost 20mm under doors!
all cuts will have to be absolutely perfect unless you are removing the facings!
but if you decide to go for it i would also use keraquick and mapei ultracolour jasmine grout
All good advice above, all I have to add is that whatever adhesive you choose, whether it's Mapei or another brand like Weber for example, it would need to be a single part flexi adhesive, preferably white, so that if you get any on the tile face you won't see any staining to the tile.
If the sub-floor is wooden, then definately not. If it's concrete, then it's still a gamble.
I would't take the chance. If the floors not too big, then a morning having fun with a bolster hammer and cold chisel would remove the old tiles, the risk of them failing, and unneccesary weight on the sub-floor.
I would't take the chance. If the floors not too big, then a morning having fun with a bolster hammer and cold chisel would remove the old tiles, the risk of them failing, and unneccesary weight on the sub-floor.
W
White Room
Hi and welcome
P
posher
Many thanks for all your replies. Well that's this morning sorted! Out with the cold chisel.
P
posher
The sub floor is concrete. What preparation/sealing will this need before I lay the tiles?
P
peegee tips
I've just been to look at a floor which has half quarry tiles & the other half a nice & flat screed. They have ordered travertine. Kitchen will have new units fitted.
The thing is, the tiles are stuck down well, & are perfectly level to the abutting screed, so would it be just making things worse by lifting them all up, plus all the extra work & cost of getting it all level again, when its all nice & level & solid to start with. Would you agree that as there is no heated screed & its been down a long time anyway that there is no need for a decoupling membrane.
Quarry tiled area is approx 7m2 & screeded 9m2.
Your thought would be appreciated please.
The thing is, the tiles are stuck down well, & are perfectly level to the abutting screed, so would it be just making things worse by lifting them all up, plus all the extra work & cost of getting it all level again, when its all nice & level & solid to start with. Would you agree that as there is no heated screed & its been down a long time anyway that there is no need for a decoupling membrane.
Quarry tiled area is approx 7m2 & screeded 9m2.
Your thought would be appreciated please.
D
Deleted member 9966
anybody got any views on this to help peegee?
D
DHTiling
Personally i would decouple it...
Hi Peegee,
before you consider tiling, get a moisture meter on top of those quarries, and check for moisture, if it's too high and it's an old house, the quarries will propably on top of cement thrown down on earth with no dpm, in which case you would have to latex screed over the quarries and the existing screed, apply an epoxy dpm then use a spf adhesive on top of the dpm which can be tiled directly onto, provided there are no pin holes, and the manufacturer of the adhesive allows it.
before you consider tiling, get a moisture meter on top of those quarries, and check for moisture, if it's too high and it's an old house, the quarries will propably on top of cement thrown down on earth with no dpm, in which case you would have to latex screed over the quarries and the existing screed, apply an epoxy dpm then use a spf adhesive on top of the dpm which can be tiled directly onto, provided there are no pin holes, and the manufacturer of the adhesive allows it.
P
peegee tips
Hi Ken, What difference would applying latex make instead of a layer of tile adhesive?
Would it not be the same to lay ditra, & then tile over that, afterall ditra is a waterproof membrane ?
I take it that can be layed with the usual rapid RSF over the quarries ?
Would it not be the same to lay ditra, & then tile over that, afterall ditra is a waterproof membrane ?
I take it that can be layed with the usual rapid RSF over the quarries ?
Latex screed is quicker and easier to use than adhesive therefore costing less in labour in the long run, but, as Dave said, you can just Ditra straight over, just make sure that any wax or oily product is stripped out of the quarries beforehand, in case the adhesive doesn't bond to the surface, in all cases the quarries will need to be primed initially and solidly fixed to the substrate.
There are similar tiling threads here
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