How Would U Deal With This - Tile Advice

[assegayer]

Hi guys the last tiler that done the place tiled straight over floorboards and they crack all the time yearly or every 3 months..how would you reccomend that i cover this surface to tile on.

Could i screw them down firmly then pour self leveling compound or rapid set cement on them?

Or would i have to put down some plywood 9mm.

Thanks in advance

 

[Old Mod]

They look shot to pieces.
Personally I'd want floor boards ripped out and replaced with
Ply and overboarded with 6mm Hardie or similar
Or Hardie do a 22mm structural grade flooring u can tile straight on to.
If u don't do correct prep now while u have chance, they'll just keep cracking, and I guess u've had enough of that!
You need to make your sub floor as solid and rigid as possible, add noggins between joists too, whilst boards are up.
Aim for 300 centres if u can.

 

[assegayer]

They look shot to pieces.
Personally I'd want floor boards ripped out and replaced with
Ply and overboarded with 6mm Hardie or similar
Or Hardie do a 22mm structural grade flooring u can tile straight on to.
If u don't do correct prep now while u have chance, they'll just keep cracking, and I guess u've had enough of that!
You need to make your sub floor as solid and rigid as possible, add noggins between joists too, whilst boards are up.
Aim for 300 centres if u can.

Thanks for the reply. So i take it that the tubbed adhesive that can be spread on floorboards is crap..off course providing that i replace some of the floor boards and put some noggins as you suggested

 

[assegayer]

Also should i leave 2mm gaps between the ply for expansion what would i fill with?

 

[Old Mod]

Certainly don't use tubbed adhesive.
A flexible slow set powder mixed with water.
If you end up with rapid set for any reason, just mix small quantities at a time.
Well as long as u are overboarding with the 6mm Hardie, just leave the joint in the ply clear, cos you would tape and joint the Hardie.
Stagger your joints in both layers so none of them run together.
Better to run ply one way, and Hardie perpendicular to them.
Stick the Hardie to the ply with same floor adhesive as tiles then screw the Hardie in the pre marked places.
Use a good quality self countersinking screw, not Hardie screws.
Tape joints and fill with adhesive.

 

[Dave]

Looks like dry rot setting in... Deffo replace the sub floor..

 

[Italy]

Certainly don't use tubbed adhesive.
A flexible slow set powder mixed with water.
If you end up with rapid set for any reason, just mix small quantities at a time.
Well as long as u are overboarding with the 6mm Hardie, just leave the joint in the ply clear, cos you would tape and joint the Hardie.
Stagger your joints in both layers so none of them run together.
Better to run ply one way, and Hardie perpendicular to them.
Stick the Hardie to the ply with same floor adhesive as tiles then screw the Hardie in the pre marked places.
Use a good quality self countersinking screw, not Hardie screws.
Tape joints and fill with adhesive.

think

 

[Unused Account 1]

the sub floor most important

 

[assegayer]

Certainly don't use tubbed adhesive.
A flexible slow set powder mixed with water.
If you end up with rapid set for any reason, just mix small quantities at a time.
Well as long as u are overboarding with the 6mm Hardie, just leave the joint in the ply clear, cos you would tape and joint the Hardie.
Stagger your joints in both layers so none of them run together.
Better to run ply one way, and Hardie perpendicular to them.
Stick the Hardie to the ply with same floor adhesive as tiles then screw the Hardie in the pre marked places.
Use a good quality self countersinking screw, not Hardie screws.
Tape joints and fill with adhesive.

okay so the boards are now nicely repaired and 6mm hardie backed, however i have another room thats just plain cement and i want to lay some natural stone tiles there, do i really need a decoupling mat or would flexible addy be enough...even when i try to look where to buy some mat i cant find a shop they all seem to jsut be online.

 

[Qwerty]

How big an area?

 

[assegayer]

How big an area?

About 4 by 5 so 20m2

 

[p4ulo]

I would say its up to you if you want to "belt and braces" your job.
What does the sub-floor look like, any signs of cracking, movement or changes in appearance of the floor?
I did natural slate on a similar sized floor, and I used Schluter Ditra, but that was because I had some and I wanted to use it, also my floor did have a few old cracks on it.

Buying - you won't find any in the shops normally, but you can buy it per metre from a couple of places online, or check Ebay, sometimes people list offcuts.
I've got a big roll of it, if you get desperate drop me a private message and I'll sell you some for a great price!

 

[assegayer]

I would say its up to you if you want to "belt and braces" your job.
What does the sub-floor look like, any signs of cracking, movement or changes in appearance of the floor?
I did natural slate on a similar sized floor, and I used Schluter Ditra, but that was because I had some and I wanted to use it, also my floor did have a few old cracks on it.

Buying - you won't find any in the shops normally, but you can buy it per metre from a couple of places online, or check Ebay, sometimes people list offcuts.
I've got a big roll of it, if you get desperate drop me a private message and I'll sell you some for a great price!

I might just take you up on that offer. Just one last question i hear people always talking about expansion gaps and all. Should i leave a whole peremiter gap between the tiles and wall then fill with silicon. Or just butt the tiles next to the wall. Some people even say to not use grout about every 5 metres or so and fill grout line with silicon instead.

Really reallt appreciate your advice and others thanks all

 

[widler]

Why need matting, has it underfloor heating ?
How long has the floor been down ?
Seems a waste of money laying matting, i wouldnt, never have and never will, unless it has underfloor heating and its stone

 

[assegayer]

Why need matting, has it underfloor heating ?
How long has the floor been down ?
Seems a waste of money laying matting, i wouldnt, never have and never will, unless it has underfloor heating and its stone

Tbh its just simply cause i saw it advertised..so what about the expansion gaps then