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Discuss grout cracking in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

Y

ythan

If the tiles are firmly stuck down and none have cracked, then why not just carefully re-grout.

The size of the floor looks too small to have a major problem with shrinkage of the ply etc

Cement boards don't add any flexural strength to the floor, in fact less so than 6mm ply. Thicker ply (15mm+) is normally used where the existing floor is too flexible between joists or over floor boards. (Assume that your floor was pretty solid?).
Cement boards on a flexible floor will result in tiles cracking.
 

andy-p

TF
Arms
I only use 6mm cement boards on bathroom floors now , the cost is not much more than ply but the advantages are 10 fold , easy to transport, cut , fix and its waterproof as well , when fitted correctly to a properly prepared substrate , the cement boards are SOLID when compared to ply.. i still have to fix to 12mm ply when subbing to certain Bathroom fitters who prep the jobs and all seems good but i much prefer cement boards..
 
Y

ythan

Jace158's original query was about grout cracking and many said 6mm ply overlay is the problem - and that jace158 has to start again using cement boards- some even said need to remove the ply overlay first.

That's all a massive messy job for both jace158 and his customer. I'm doubtful that is necessary and hence suggested to first try careful re-grouting. There's no mention of cracking of the tiles, so jace158's problem sounds minor. Tiling onto ply and onto chipboard floors can be successful.


I agree in bathrooms, particularly when using electric underfloor heating, then thermal backer boards (eg Warmup Insulation boards) are well worth laying. But I maintain that 6mm cement backer boards won't be a cure for flexible ply or chipboard floors -cement boards don't add much flexural strength to the existing floor, compared with a ply overlay (which only needs to be thoroughly clout nailed).
 

Bathfix Bob

TF
Arms
340
588
I'm a firm believer in cement boards don't get me wrong I never use anything else after a similar disaster with 12mm ply, in my case the grout was fine but the tiles cracked in a perfect line over where two boards met. In that case there wern't enough screws and the edges were lifting.

Re the 6mm thickess, Hardiebacker are 6mm but they are bedded onto flexi adhesive to fill voids and stop them bouncing over hollows in old floorboards.

So my question is, if the subfloor was 100% flat then surely 6mm ply screwed and 150mm would be okay as there's nothing to 'compress'?
 
W

White Room

Jace158's original query was about grout cracking and many said 6mm ply overlay is the problem - and that jace158 has to start again using cement boards- some even said need to remove the ply overlay first.

That's all a massive messy job for both jace158 and his customer. I'm doubtful that is necessary and hence suggested to first try careful re-grouting. There's no mention of cracking of the tiles, so jace158's problem sounds minor. Tiling onto ply and onto chipboard floors can be successful.


I agree in bathrooms, particularly when using electric underfloor heating, then thermal backer boards (eg Warmup Insulation boards) are well worth laying. But I maintain that 6mm cement backer boards won't be a cure for flexible ply or chipboard floors -cement boards don't add much flexural strength to the existing floor, compared with a ply overlay (which only needs to be thoroughly clout nailed).

You can't be serious ????
 

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