First Time Limestone Floor

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M

Makone

TF
9
98
Hastings
I have a 70m limestone floor to do and having never done one before I have a few questions for you good people.
the tiles are between 700 and 1100mm to be laid randomly, honed, with a rustic affect, light but not white in colour. i have a 900mm sigma but I'm guessing that the tile will be too soft to score and break. is that right? and if so what would you suggest for cutting? all i have is a battery grinder or a 750w wet cutter. guessing the wet cutter is better but will that stain the tiles? any special wheel needed?
also its going on a anhydrite screed - beautifully flat - any advice on what type of primer to use and/or any technique for application would be much appreciated. thanks in advance.
 
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S

Stef

Tom Astley said:
See - I don't get it with some of you folk - I have fixed thousands of metres of stone without decouplers, many times directly in a sand and cement bed.

All you have to do is make sure is that everything you do is compatible with your workflow.
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& here's a limestone floor fixed to a screed without a decoupler, all be it a badly laid screed.
I have repaired this floor 3 times, they were told at install to decouple but I'm only a daft tiler, what do I know.

image.png image.png image.png image.png image.png image.png image.png
 
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S

Spare Tool

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B

Bill

Stef said:
& here's a limestone floor fixed to a screed without a decoupler, all be it a badly laid screed.
I have repaired this floor 3 times, they were told at install to decouple but I'm only a daft tiler, what do I know.
Click to expand...
So this, in your own opinion, was a badly laid screed....so maybe that was the problem and not the actual fixing?
 
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B

Bill

Stef said:
Tom go on the Schluter course you may be surprised as what you could learn there.
The guy that designed Ditra realised how tiling of old had lasted as long & that was to decouple it from the ground with a layer of sand.
Click to expand...
Not all did that. I have fixed onto suspended timber with sand and cement and had no problems....it is how you fix them that matters. I wish we had mobile phones 30 years ago that took photos!
 
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S

Stef

Camper said:
If the screed was installed properly it already is decoupled (With styrofoam sheets instead of sand). With or without Ditra you still need to install movement joints. This is the reason for the cracks in the pictures above ( NO movement joints).

Floating-V6-LR1.jpg
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"If the screed is installed properly"
If every screed was fitted this way then there would be no problem, that's where the decoupler comes into its own.
My pictures above are nothing to do with a movement join not being fitted.
No run is more than 3m long & is broken across the door ways, it was a badly fitted screed.
 
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S

Stef

Tom Astley said:
Sorry I have no before or during photos but here is one I did not long ago...soft as turkish ceramics..... no decoupler fixed in sand and cement onto a concrete base......

View attachment 81781 View attachment 81782
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I'm not on here for an argument but I would like to see that floor in a years time.
As stated "If" the screed is installed correctly there shouldn't be an issue.
 
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C

Camper

Stef said:
"If the screed is installed properly"
If every screed was fitted this way then there would be no problem, that's where the decoupler comes into its own.
My pictures above are nothing to do with a movement join not being fitted.
No run is more than 3m long & is broken across the door ways, it was a badly fitted screed.
Click to expand...

It's true screed is rarely fitted by code. I suspect the reason for this is ignorance and/or price/time pressure.
However laying a decoupler just because it's stone and we have an anhydrite screed is also not code. This is my disagreement. It's not a prerequisite for a properly installed floor. Furthermore the decoupler is not a replacement for movement joints. Without movement joints your stone will crack even with a decoupler.

It is paramount that the OP inspect the screed, and have all issues rectified before laying the stone. And that all movement joints are kept intact and functional after the stone is set. This will ensure a long lasting floor.
 
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M

Makone

TF
9
98
Hastings
right lads, appreciate all the advice. so i went to the client and suggested decoupling, got a flat out no in reply, i said in that case i make no guarantees, the client says couldn't give a toss just get it done.. who am i to argue? fascinating thread btw does it always get so heated round here? :D some lovely pics there too..
start next week I'll let you know how it goes..
 
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M

Makone

TF
9
98
Hastings
Camper said:
The Anhydrate-Screed needs to be prepped properly!

1) Calcium-Carbide Moister measurement test. The moisture can't exceed 0.5% (with UFH 0.3%)
2) Laitence layer removed
3) Prime
4) Tiling can begin
5)Decoupling is not needed, to avoid cracking(longevity) movement joints need to be installed correctly!
Click to expand...
i've been told by the builder that laitence has been removed. the screed was laid three months ago so hopefully its gone off..
 
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O

Old Mod

Haha heated! This thread?
That's not heated, it's just a healthy debate! :p
I bet you never thought u'd have such an impact on your first day tho did u? Haha :D
Well at least you know where u stand with the client, so that's a good thing!
Yeah be very interesting to see how you go Harry.
Remember, if u get stuck, start a new thread!!!! Hahahaha
Good luck.
 
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M

Makone

TF
9
98
Hastings
3_fall said:
Haha heated! This thread?
That's not heated, it's just a healthy debate! :p
I bet you never thought u'd have such an impact on your first day tho did u? Haha :D
Well at least you know where u stand with the client, so that's a good thing!
Yeah be very interesting to see how you go Harry.
Remember, if u get stuck, start a new thread!!!! Hahahaha
Good luck.
Click to expand...
hahaha yeah wasn't expecting that to be honest.. ill post some pics when its done. cheers for the luck i may yet need it!!
 
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O

Old Mod

Makone said:
hahaha yeah wasn't expecting that to be honest.. ill post some pics when its done. cheers for the luck i may yet need it!!
Click to expand...
Well, we'll be here if u get stuck! :D
Progress pics, we love them too! :)
U can create an album on your media page then they'll always be easily accessible.
Then if anyone wants to see what you're all about, they'll be able to see your work.
And if u want to look at other members, just click their avatar above their name and ill see either 'media page' or 'albums page'
image.jpeg
 
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T

Time's Ran Out

Makone said:
just work super clean, seal once laid, grout, seal again. thats the plan. anything i should know?
Click to expand...

I'd be tempted to seal limestone as you get them out of the crate. Any moisture from sponges, adhesive, hands etc will dry at different times and leave damp patchy areas when you come to seal it.
There is a line of thought that would suggest you will be trapping the moisture from the adhesive in, but by using a fast set flexible and flat skimming the back of the tiles, it's not something that I've encountered.
 
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