Bathroom renovation, Jackoboard and other questions - advice! - Tile Advice

[TheFifthElement]

Hi fellow members, first post, looking for advice regarding my bathroom renovation. I have read plenty of threads trying to educate myself at least to an acceptable DIY level and be able to ask the right questions.
I love DIY, I have done a couple of bathrooms before (not that challenging) and plenty of other jobs around houses I owned before (laminate, kitchen, etc) so not afraid to tackle even a difficult project.

To the point... Our upstairs bathroom is dated, so it is time for a complete makeover It measures 2.4mx3m with 2.4m height walls, so lucky as is perfect for 30-60-90cm tiles.
The walls are double brick walls with thick plaster (not plasterboard), painted with silk bathroom paint.
Floor is 20mm fibreboard, solid with no defects on top of the joists.
Tiles bought... 600x600x10mm porcelain on the walls and a wood effect 900x150x9mm porcelain for the floor.

So here is the plan...
I will built a stud wall in one of the 3m walls with 300mm spacing between the (3x2) timbers to be ready for a 10mm backer board. I will add also horizontal pieces to help the rigidity of the frame and the horizontal fixing of the board. Stud wall will be 230mm out, so plenty of space for cistern, pipes and most important more than 50mm depth for the electrical wiring.
I am gonna go with the Jackoboard 1200x600x10mm, fixed in a brick bond pattern, with 8 screws and washers as per the Jackoboard plano instructions. The above looks straightforward, just have to be careful to be level and square for my tiling.

The problem is the other three plastered and painted walls as I am pretty sure they cannot accommodate the 25kg/m2 tile plus adhesive/grout! Not taking chances, I am gonna key the wall like a madman (especially after another poor Arsenal display) then the 6mm boards will be fixed with tile adhesive and plugs/screws/washers at least 50mm into the brick wall, with 3 rows of 5 washers per board - more than Jacko recommends. The question is, is that enough and which tile adhesive should I use behind the board? Any primer?
Floor should be straightforward, I know that I have to prime it and then 5-8mm adhesive, 6mm boards, 8 screws/washers per board but again which primer/tile adhesive combo would you recommend?

Last questions (and most important for me)...
I understand that you have to reinforce the board joints with alkaline resistant glass fibre tape in dry areas or, as it is a bathroom, do I have to go with waterproof tape and tile adhesive? Do I have to use their board fix adhesive on the side of the boards as I butt them?

I will have a shower corner area, I understand that I have to completely waterproof the joints/washers as above but I think I should also tank it. Should I use Jacko kit, Artex or some other brand? (usual stone shower tray will be used not a former/tiled).
As the bathroom is upstairs, for peace of mind I would prefer to use a really flexible tile adhesive to avoid any problems from vibrations, will an S1 type do or is it an overkill to go for S2 type - either way which one do you recommend? Should I use the same for behind the boards and tiling?
Screws - after reading all the different threads on this forum, I am convinced that the extra cost for Stainless Steel screws is not worth it and I should go for Turbogold. Is 4mm the right fit for the washers? - any other recommendation/idea?

I have chosen Jackoboards over the more expensive Marmox etc and the similar priced Nomoreply. I can do cheaper with ebay ones but not sure if a saving of £1/board is worth the risk as Jacko is used from you guys with no problems at all. My only grumble is that for 38 boards CTD gave me a price that was just pennies less than ordering them online from elsewhere, although I have to travel 40 miles to get them...

Sorry for this essay type ‘first post’ but it is an accumulation of 4 weeks research and planning of this bathroom and I want to be sure that I’ve got it right before I start!
Thanks in advance!
George

PS... Photos of the bathroom and a rough plan/diagram of the renovation will follow
[automerge]1576272588[/automerge]
Photos!

 

[Old Mod]

That’s a lot of questions in one go 😊
I’ll Try and keep it simple.
Jacko’s board joint adhesive (edges) should be waterproofing method so that the joints don’t need taping, check the specs on the adhesive, if not, then the board joints in the wet area will need to have waterproofing applied over them.
All mechanical fixings inside the wet are must be waterproofed, either with tape or paint on products.
Nomoreply is not waterproof, in any way, you would have to tank over all the boards in wet areas.
Jackoboard is a waterproof board. Only joints and fixings should need attention.
In dry areas, Skrim tape is sufficient.
Prime everything, including back of Jacko board when using adhesive.
Use an acrylic tile primer that is the same brand as your adhesive.
Use a standard set S1 class adhesive throughout, that will be sufficient, as long as your substrates are solid and load bearing as you state above.

 

[Albert]

Ctd will deliver for you

 

[TheFifthElement]

Thank you for your input and time @3_fall @Albert really appreciated!
Just came home with the 4x2 timbers for the stud wall and I am ready to order the boards, tapes and everything else I need. I need some final advice before ordering....

1) This question is asked probably numerous times but how you secure the washers/boards into 4x2 when you have only 2 inches? The only way i can see that happening is carefully screw the washer between boards (joint) or build the stud wall with the 4" facing the wall horizontaly not verticaly (which is not a big deal - I will have support noggins as I am building recessed shelving).

2) Washers, galvanised any brand ok?

3) I can calculate the different depths I need for screws but which turbogold are compatible with the washers, 4/4.5/5x required mm depth?

4) The other three walls as I have mentioned they are painted over plaster, which I will try to key to death Boards will be definitely secured with 15 washers each, with screws deep enough to reach 50mm plugs into the brick wall. I know I should prime my boards for better adhesion but which trowel thickness? Should I prime the roughed up walls as well or is a waste of time and effort?

5) Finally, as the post got really long again, the adhesive......
It would have been really straightforward c2 S1 done.. but inside the airing cupboard we will have a washing machine! So as it is an upstairs bathroom I know even with dampeners we will have some vibration. Should I still go with an S1 or for peace of mind go for S2? And if I use S2 should I use it everywhere or just tiles or boards? (around 40 boards..adhesive..££££)

Again thank you all for your time, without the answers I got by reading numerous threads, I wouldn't be thinking to undertake this big project for a DIYer

George

 

[Old Mod]

This question is asked probably numerous times but how you secure the washers/boards into 4x2 when you have only 2 inches? The only way i can see that happening is carefully screw the washer between boards (joint)

You can use one washer to span the two boards.

Washers, galvanised any brand ok?

Wet areas should be stainless, but yes, any brand.

I can calculate the different depths I need for screws but which turbogold are compatible with the washers, 4/4.5/5x required mm depth?

The ones that fit in the hole 😁
Pretty sure it’s a 4

4) The other three walls as I have mentioned they are painted over plaster, which I will try to key to death Boards will be definitely secured with 15 washers each, with screws deep enough to reach 50mm plugs into the brick wall. I know I should prime my boards for better adhesion but which trowel thickness? Should I prime the roughed up walls as well or is a waste of time and effort?

Prime walls and use dabs of adhesive to make sure the boards are installed plumb, unless of course the walls are already flat and plumb, in which case an 8 will do.
And remember to mark position of the dabs and screw thro those 😁

If you’re worried about vibration from washing machine, just use an S2 underneath it.
As long as your install is good and to a load bearing and deflection free floor, it should be fine.

 

[TheFifthElement]

Thank you @3_fall !

Marmox boards, tray, waste, tape from TileFix already delivered. As I will install UFH I also ordered the Dural Durabase CI-FH Decoupling & UFH Matting. It should help with the UFH installation and the porcelain tiles

2 x Quick questions!
a) I decided to invest on a Sigma tile cutter, any reason NOT to buy the 3d2 K click clock ? Amazon stocks it - good price with monthly payments as well - a good deal for me for an expensive item to add to my tools collection.

b) My 18mm chipboard floor is level and sound so do I have to use adhesive on the back of the 10mm Marmox or 15 screws/washers per board should be sufficient and then use S1 adhesive for the Dural and tiles?

Thanks again!
George

 

[Perry]

keying the plaster weakens it, so not necessary.

 

[TheFifthElement]

keying the plaster weakens it, so not necessary.

So just prime the bathroom paint with a suitable primer/same brand to the adhesive i am buying? As I was thinking to use at least a wire brush with a drill at low rpm and then clean the wall and prime...haven't tried it though so I don't know how succesfull will be!

 

[Old Mod]

The idea of adhesive on both wall and floor isn’t solely to stick it, it’s to take out any uneven surface. They’re held in place by mechanical fixings.

Nothing wrong with the Klick Klock, it just isn’t as powerful as a max when actually snapping a tile.
That said you’d have to have something pretty tough to need the max. And if you do need it, you can just buy a max handle and swap them over.
They’re around £50.
I have both handles for my 3e4m

 

[TheFifthElement]

Nothing wrong with the Klick Klock, it just isn’t as powerful as a max when actually snapping a tile.
That said you’d have to have something pretty tough to need the max. And if you do need it, you can just buy a max handle and swap them over.
They’re around £50.
I have both handles for my 3e4m

Sigma 3D2 K can be delivered end of next week, a bit late. I can buy the 3D2 for Saturday delivery which is a pull instead of push. I understand that theoreticaly the body movement is more natural using push models but how much of a difference is between the 2?

George ------- too many questions

 

[Old Mod]

The only people I know who can answer that for you are @antonio & @LEE MAC

 

[Italy]

with 3d2 it is better klick klick or maxi. to pull you would do too much effort.

 

[LM]

It’s easier to achieve one crisp clean score by pushing over that distance rather than pulling.

 

[TheFifthElement]

Thanks for your input @antonio and @LEE MAC I thought as well that push looks more comfortable than pull version.
3D2K ordered for next week delivery and bathroom project postponed until mid January.
Better this way in order to enjoy the holiday period and start in January relaxed with no pressure to complete it under specific time.
I'll be back with photos when started - I know you love photos!

Enjoy your holidays!
George

 

[Italy]

The only people I know who can answer that for you are @antonio & @LEE MAC

still for a short time, then I leave this task to lee