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tony Dimartino

Hi All, I am after some help. I am looking at replacing my bathroom floor, its currently tiled on to chipboard. I was intending to replace the chipboard as its suffered water damage with 18mm ply then cover with 6mm Hardie backer but i am worried that this will make the floor height to high once tiled. Does anyone have any advise to keep the level lower, I was thinking of putting noggins 18mm from the top of the joist and insetting the ply between the joists and then laying 12mm backer boards on top?
 
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Waluigi

It really won’t be too high.

What’s it joining onto? Carpet on the landing? Underlay underneath it?

I usually find the transition is pretty good between Bathroom and carpeted landing. I often use an Oak threshold to accommodate the gap. If the tiles are really high (UFH used) then I increase the width of the threshold to make the slope less severe. I hope this makes sense.
 
T

tony Dimartino

It really won’t be too high.

What’s it joining onto? Carpet on the landing? Underlay underneath it?

I usually find the transition is pretty good between Bathroom and carpeted landing. I often use an Oak threshold to accommodate the gap. If the tiles are really high (UFH used) then I increase the width of the threshold to make the slope less severe. I hope this makes sense.
Hi thanks for your reply yes on to a landing with carpet,it does make sense, I was just worried that by the time I add the height of the tile 10mm and 6mm for the backing board, plus adhesives on both, it may be to high?
 

Boggs

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T

tony Dimartino

It really won’t be too high.

What’s it joining onto? Carpet on the landing? Underlay underneath it?

I usually find the transition is pretty good between Bathroom and carpeted landing. I often use an Oak threshold to accommodate the gap. If the tiles are really high (UFH used) then I increase the width of the threshold to make the slope less severe. I hope this makes sense.
Could I also also ask, im considering putting the backer board on the walls over plasterboard, can it be just glued or does it need to be screwed, or am i better ripping the pasterbaord of and using 12mm backer? the only concern is the stud work is metal in the walls
 
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Waluigi

No problem with screwing a cement backer board on the walls. Keep in mind that if you use the foam board, the spacing between studs needs to be reduced. Hardiebacker would be fine. I’d remove the plasterboard entirely.
 
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tony Dimartino

No problem with screwing a cement backer board on the walls. Keep in mind that if you use the foam board, the spacing between studs needs to be reduced. Hardiebacker would be fine. I’d remove the plasterboard entirely.
Thanks for your advise I appreciate it. I am just concerned that if i take the boards off instead of overlay the wall it might be difficult or not enough studs to fix to as they are metal not wood
 
W

Waluigi

It’ll be the same whether you remove the plasterboard or not. You still need to screw at the ends of boards. Hardie is 1200mm x 800
 

CJ

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Topps also do Transition threshold bars........for height differences of 15mm (I think)

Also, why board walls over plasterboard? Why not just tank??
 
T

tony Dimartino

Topps also do Transition threshold bars........for height differences of 15mm (I think)

Also, why board walls over plasterboard? Why not just tank??
Hi the walls are plastered and im concerned they wont be able to hold the weight of the 600x300 porcelin tiles?
 

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