Advise on replacing bathroom floor

[tony Dimartino]

Hi All, I am after some help. I am looking at replacing my bathroom floor, its currently tiled on to chipboard. I was intending to replace the chipboard as its suffered water damage with 18mm ply then cover with 6mm Hardie backer but i am worried that this will make the floor height to high once tiled. Does anyone have any advise to keep the level lower, I was thinking of putting noggins 18mm from the top of the joist and insetting the ply between the joists and then laying 12mm backer boards on top?

 

[Waluigi]

It really won’t be too high.

What’s it joining onto? Carpet on the landing? Underlay underneath it?

I usually find the transition is pretty good between Bathroom and carpeted landing. I often use an Oak threshold to accommodate the gap. If the tiles are really high (UFH used) then I increase the width of the threshold to make the slope less severe. I hope this makes sense.

 

[tony Dimartino]

It really won’t be too high.

What’s it joining onto? Carpet on the landing? Underlay underneath it?

I usually find the transition is pretty good between Bathroom and carpeted landing. I often use an Oak threshold to accommodate the gap. If the tiles are really high (UFH used) then I increase the width of the threshold to make the slope less severe. I hope this makes sense.

Hi thanks for your reply yes on to a landing with carpet,it does make sense, I was just worried that by the time I add the height of the tile 10mm and 6mm for the backing board, plus adhesives on both, it may be to high?

 

[Boggs]

As Waluigi says, the build up is only 20mm.

Most carpet underlay is 10mm plus carpet gives a relatively flat surface.

I use one of these to join the two.
Floor Gripstrip Silver | Silver Flooring Grip Strip - https://www.toppstiles.co.uk/tprod4361/floor-gripstrip-silver.html

 

[tony Dimartino]

It really won’t be too high.

What’s it joining onto? Carpet on the landing? Underlay underneath it?

I usually find the transition is pretty good between Bathroom and carpeted landing. I often use an Oak threshold to accommodate the gap. If the tiles are really high (UFH used) then I increase the width of the threshold to make the slope less severe. I hope this makes sense.

Could I also also ask, im considering putting the backer board on the walls over plasterboard, can it be just glued or does it need to be screwed, or am i better ripping the pasterbaord of and using 12mm backer? the only concern is the stud work is metal in the walls

 

[Waluigi]

No problem with screwing a cement backer board on the walls. Keep in mind that if you use the foam board, the spacing between studs needs to be reduced. Hardiebacker would be fine. I’d remove the plasterboard entirely.

 

[tony Dimartino]

No problem with screwing a cement backer board on the walls. Keep in mind that if you use the foam board, the spacing between studs needs to be reduced. Hardiebacker would be fine. I’d remove the plasterboard entirely.

Thanks for your advise I appreciate it. I am just concerned that if i take the boards off instead of overlay the wall it might be difficult or not enough studs to fix to as they are metal not wood

 

[Waluigi]

It’ll be the same whether you remove the plasterboard or not. You still need to screw at the ends of boards. Hardie is 1200mm x 800

 

[CJ]

Topps also do Transition threshold bars........for height differences of 15mm (I think)

Also, why board walls over plasterboard? Why not just tank??

 

[tony Dimartino]

Topps also do Transition threshold bars........for height differences of 15mm (I think)

Also, why board walls over plasterboard? Why not just tank??

Hi the walls are plastered and im concerned they wont be able to hold the weight of the 600x300 porcelin tiles?

 

[Boggs]

Hardie backer and metal studs, Good luck to whoever gets to rip that out in a few years!
Been there, complete nightmare!!!

 

[Waluigi]

Might be a consideration to use new bare plasterboard on the metal studs. This increases your weight limit.

Boggs, I just had a think about that, what a nightmare as you can’t tear the stuff down.

 

[tony Dimartino]

Hardie backer and metal studs, Good luck to whoever gets to rip that out in a few years!
Been there, complete nightmare!!!

Is it the right way about doing it? Which backing board is best there are so many to choose?

 

[Boggs]

Nope, 20sqm bathroom, porcelain tiles on 12mm Hardie screwed to metal stud work.

Could not get the tiles off the Hardie or the board off the studs. Took 2 of us 1.5 days to strip out!
Also the issue with the dust created by breaking it apart, not good.

Hardie backer has its place but not on metal studs.

 

[Boggs]

Is it the right way about doing it? Which backing board is best there are so many to choose?

I would remove existing skimmed plasterboard and replace with moisture resistant plasterboard, just tank the wet areas.

With tanking you should still be looking at 32kg sqm, so should be fine for 600 x 300 porcelain and adhesive.

 

[Perfect Tiling]

I'd agree with the above. put on new plasterboard and tank it. I doesn't need to be moisture resistant...not if your tanking it anyway. Also, some shower walls are on an external wall which requires duplex (foil backed) plasterboard and you don't get foil backed moisture check plasterboard (not up here anyway). When I'm doing floors I use a piece of stainless steel quadrant trim on the edge under the door...I leave about 6mm protruding for the carpet to be tucked under. It gives a nice slim rounded edge.....no stubbed toes!