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U

Unregistered

I hope somebody can offer us some advice. We had an extension built last spring and have been experiencing problems with the tiled floor since about August/September last year, getting progressively worse.
Our new porcelain tiled floor is lifting in places, sounds hollow in others, and has lots of areas where the grout has come out of the joints. I'll try and give as much info as possible to see if you can offer some advice.
Porcelain tiles are porcelanosa 60x60 and are laid to the existing kitchen & utility floor (previous tiles removed), floor below the tiles is a concrete screed. New floor to the extension that is also tiled is concrete screed (but obviously far newer as it was laid as part of the build). Total area tiled was approx. 30m2
There is also UHF involved (electric cable mat 200w varme system).
As far as I am aware the "layers" above the concrete screed are as follows;
1) Self levelling compound applied to the join between the old and new floor, carried out by the builder, no idea of make/type.
1) Varme 6mm tilebacker board laid to entire floor surface to be tiled (laid with adhesive, no idea of the make or type, in some case screwed down in places, can't remember where, just that the builder had to do this). Carried out by the builder.
2) Varme supplied primer was then applied to the areas to have UFH (2 mats, 1 was 6m2, the other was 12m2) cable mat, floor probes and programmers fitted, not commisioned, as the consumer unit this was wired to was not yet connected to the main consumer unit (all done by our electrician, as recommended by the builder).
3) The same day as 2) above the builder applied an adhesive over the cable mat and we were instructed to only walk on the floor if absolutely necessary and not in shoes, needless to say we didn't enter the room! Do not know make or type of adhesive used.
4) The following day to 3) the tilers laid & grouted the floor, I am told that they used Granfix adhesive and grout but do not know the type. We were told not to clean the grout off the floor, if walking on the floor tread on the centres, but if at all possible leave for 4 hours, which we did (overnight i recall). We did not wash the floor for approx. 1 week. The tiler was employed by the builder.
5) The UFH was not connected up for four weeks after fitting (electrician on holiday followed by us going on holiday). When it was turned on the electricians manually set the the UFH to a floor temperature of 17 degrees. We did not begin to adjust the temperature for a further 12 weeks.
Around 2-3 months after the floor was laid I started to notice the odd popping noise on some of the tiles, particularly if you stood on the far edges of the tile & tried to "rock" it. Grout began to become loose in quite a few areas (spacers exposed), culminating in a tile at the entrance to the kitchen becoming completely loose (the thresher & skirting are all that is holding it in place) in early January, there is no UFH beneath this tile.
Needless to say other tiles are starting to make more popping noises or you can almost feel them "flexing" (one by the cooker, right next to the plinth, again no UFH at this point, told it was fitted approx 10cm out from the plinth), some in the middle of the floor, some at the perimeter.. The builder was called who came to have a look, had no idea so got the tiler back (not the actual tiler but the guy whose company it is). Tiler contacted Granfix, who apparently asked for photos and a sample, which we duly provided. The tiler removed one tile, chipped off the tile adhesive which was grey in colour with an orange tinge around the edges, took some photos (I didn't which I am now regretting) & sent to Granfix for tests. The tiler took our address and told us that Granfix would probably write to us direct with their findings (they didn't). He replaced the tile (we had a few spare) but it was obviously a few mm higher than all the other tiles.
We were subsequently told some 4-6 weeks later by the builder that the tiler had been advised (verbally) by Granfix that the adhesive had failed, but were then told some weeks after that Granfix were now stating that the issue is due to thermal shock (the inference being we turned the heating on too soon before the floor had cured, how long does it need??) but that the tiler has offered to replace the tiles at his cost (tiles alone are approx. £1300). We are concerned that the UFH could get damaged in the removal of the tiles & associated adhesive, our floor level increases (this is not an option, the plinth is aluminium so can't be simply cut down, plus we tiled under the appliances to ensure that we could get them out and are not sure if this will give us issues when we subsequently refit them) or worse still there is a problem further down the "layers" that reappears after the floor has been refitted.
It is fair to say we are at the mercy of the builder and his tiler and have no idea what the likely cause is, from the above information does it sound like we have caused the thermal shock or are there others questions we should be asking of the builder/tiler?
Any advice is truly welcomed.
 
R

Rizzle from the Portizzle

Re: Help, what could be wrong with my porcelain tiled floor that is li

I hope somebody can offer us some advice. We had an extension built last spring and have been experiencing problems with the tiled floor since about August/September last year, getting progressively worse.
Our new porcelain tiled floor is lifting in places, sounds hollow in others, and has lots of areas where the grout has come out of the joints. I'll try and give as much info as possible to see if you can offer some advice.
Porcelain tiles are porcelanosa 60x60 and are laid to the existing kitchen & utility floor (previous tiles removed), floor below the tiles is a concrete screed. New floor to the extension that is also tiled is concrete screed (but obviously far newer as it was laid as part of the build). Total area tiled was approx. 30m2
There is also UHF involved (electric cable mat 200w varme system).
As far as I am aware the "layers" above the concrete screed are as follows;
1) Self levelling compound applied to the join between the old and new floor, carried out by the builder, no idea of make/type.
1) Varme 6mm tilebacker board laid to entire floor surface to be tiled (laid with adhesive, no idea of the make or type, in some case screwed down in places, can't remember where, just that the builder had to do this). Carried out by the builder.
2) Varme supplied primer was then applied to the areas to have UFH (2 mats, 1 was 6m2, the other was 12m2) cable mat, floor probes and programmers fitted, not commisioned, as the consumer unit this was wired to was not yet connected to the main consumer unit (all done by our electrician, as recommended by the builder).
3) The same day as 2) above the builder applied an adhesive over the cable mat and we were instructed to only walk on the floor if absolutely necessary and not in shoes, needless to say we didn't enter the room! Do not know make or type of adhesive used.
4) The following day to 3) the tilers laid & grouted the floor, I am told that they used Granfix adhesive and grout but do not know the type. We were told not to clean the grout off the floor, if walking on the floor tread on the centres, but if at all possible leave for 4 hours, which we did (overnight i recall). We did not wash the floor for approx. 1 week. The tiler was employed by the builder.
5) The UFH was not connected up for four weeks after fitting (electrician on holiday followed by us going on holiday). When it was turned on the electricians manually set the the UFH to a floor temperature of 17 degrees. We did not begin to adjust the temperature for a further 12 weeks.
Around 2-3 months after the floor was laid I started to notice the odd popping noise on some of the tiles, particularly if you stood on the far edges of the tile & tried to "rock" it. Grout began to become loose in quite a few areas (spacers exposed), culminating in a tile at the entrance to the kitchen becoming completely loose (the thresher & skirting are all that is holding it in place) in early January, there is no UFH beneath this tile.
Needless to say other tiles are starting to make more popping noises or you can almost feel them "flexing" (one by the cooker, right next to the plinth, again no UFH at this point, told it was fitted approx 10cm out from the plinth), some in the middle of the floor, some at the perimeter.. The builder was called who came to have a look, had no idea so got the tiler back (not the actual tiler but the guy whose company it is). Tiler contacted Granfix, who apparently asked for photos and a sample, which we duly provided. The tiler removed one tile, chipped off the tile adhesive which was grey in colour with an orange tinge around the edges, took some photos (I didn't which I am now regretting) & sent to Granfix for tests. The tiler took our address and told us that Granfix would probably write to us direct with their findings (they didn't). He replaced the tile (we had a few spare) but it was obviously a few mm higher than all the other tiles.
We were subsequently told some 4-6 weeks later by the builder that the tiler had been advised (verbally) by Granfix that the adhesive had failed, but were then told some weeks after that Granfix were now stating that the issue is due to thermal shock (the inference being we turned the heating on too soon before the floor had cured, how long does it need??) but that the tiler has offered to replace the tiles at his cost (tiles alone are approx. £1300). We are concerned that the UFH could get damaged in the removal of the tiles & associated adhesive, our floor level increases (this is not an option, the plinth is aluminium so can't be simply cut down, plus we tiled under the appliances to ensure that we could get them out and are not sure if this will give us issues when we subsequently refit them) or worse still there is a problem further down the "layers" that reappears after the floor has been refitted.
It is fair to say we are at the mercy of the builder and his tiler and have no idea what the likely cause is, from the above information does it sound like we have caused the thermal shock or are there others questions we should be asking of the builder/tiler?
Any advice is truly welcomed.
contact the tta and ask them to do inspection this will cost you a few 100 pounds but you will get a fall report .send adhesive samples off for indepedent testing ceram will cost about £240
 

Ajax123

TF
Esteemed
Arms
931
1,213
Lincolnshire
Re: Help, what could be wrong with my porcelain tiled floor that is li

I have to say that an orange tinge is a bit of a signal that something might be wrong ith the adhesive. This would likely be one of the plasticisers/polymers in the adhesive and if it segregates from the adhesive could indicate over watering of the adhesive. This would make it fixer error. I know that one or two manufacturers put special additives in their adhesives which change colour if too much water is added but think this one could be a simple case of more water than should have been
 
G

Gazzer

Re: Help, what could be wrong with my porcelain tiled floor that is li

Thank you for the advice, it looks like we need to get an independent expert to look at the problem as the builder & tiler are adamant that it is some form of thermal shock. Can anyone advise, is TTA short for The Tilers Association?

TTA The Tile Association
For tiles, tilers, tiling and the tiles industry: The Tile Association
 
U

Unregistered

Re: Help, what could be wrong with my porcelain tiled floor that is li

Will have to see about getting a tile up, will involve mess so may take us a while. Although I appreciate mess is probably inevitable given the problem we have......

Contacted TTA who want just shy of £1k to do an inspection and report, Ceram won't test samples for members of the public and also felt this type of analysis would run into the thousands so it looks like we're unable to get anything concluded without spending quite a bit of money which just seems crazy (& unfair given we can't see how we caused the issue yet to get it resolved to our satisfaction is going to incur a whole lot of cost). I presume that when samples are sent off to adhesive manufacturers there would be some report that would have gone back to the tiler that I could ask to see....does anyone know if that's how it works?

We've also remembered that the UHF hardly went on last summer as the ambient floor temp was higher (we had more of a summer last year i think!) than the UHF set temp so if any thermal shock occurred it was down to the temperature of the environment we were in (central heating not on in the summer either).

Can anyone advise if 4weeks is generally enough time before turning on the UFH (so as not to cause thermal shock), should correctly laid adhesive have cured by then? And whether after that if the ambient temperature could cause thermal shock?

Tiler has offered to remove old tiles & replace that only, has advised he can't guarantee that the floor level wont increase (stating will go up c.5mm). What I'm concerned about is that this sounds like the old adhesive will not be completely removed, would this cause the same issue again if it's actually a problem with the adhesive as suggested by Ajax?

Just trying to work out our options, go for a re-tile but end up with a higher floor and all the problems that gives us or fund the entire removal ourselves and go with another tiler (and how do we find one that knows what they're doing so we don't get this problem again)?

As before, any advice gratefully received, thanks for all advice to date.
 

Dan

Admin
Staff member
5,039
1,323
Staffordshire, UK
Re: Help, what could be wrong with my porcelain tiled floor that is li

If I'm reading this correctly, the tiler has said he will remove the tiles and replace them?

I'd assume he'd remove all the adhesive too. Personally I'd replace the UFH at my own cost too, meaning it could be a whole fresh floor, and you shouldn't have another issue then if done correctly and everything else is taken care off.

If Granfix have said it's thermal shock, then that'll be what it is and you'd have to give them the benefit of the doubt on that one even if you heard or assumed otherwise. That being the case, you have to assume the heating was being commissioned too early.

Is this problem on both the old concrete and the new screed floors? (If I read that bit right)
 
H

Herindoors

Re: Help, what could be wrong with my porcelain tiled floor that is li

I've now registered hence a reply not coming from unregistered.

I'll try and answer the questions raised.

Yes, the tiler has said he'll remove the tiles and replace them & remove what adhesive he can but that the finished floor level will increase by 5mm, so I'm assuming that there will be some old adhesive left behind that is causing the floor level to increase. He is not replacing the UFH.

We can categorically prove that the UFH was not connected or commissioned for 4 weeks after the mat & and tiles were laid. Has anyone heard of adhesive requiring longer than 7-14 days before the UFH is first turned on or that thermal shock can occur well after this?

Would you expect Granfix to have confirmed in writing to the tiler that they believe the failure to be down to thermal shock and would that include some level of explanation behind why that is the case i.e test report on sample adhesive?

Yes, the problem is on both the old and newly screed floors but is patchy, there are also other areas of the floor that have UFH which are fine.
 

Dan

Admin
Staff member
5,039
1,323
Staffordshire, UK
Re: Help, what could be wrong with my porcelain tiled floor that is li

I've now registered hence a reply not coming from unregistered.

I'll try and answer the questions raised.

Yes, the tiler has said he'll remove the tiles and replace them & remove what adhesive he can but that the finished floor level will increase by 5mm, so I'm assuming that there will be some old adhesive left behind that is causing the floor level to increase. He is not replacing the UFH.

We can categorically prove that the UFH was not connected or commissioned for 4 weeks after the mat & and tiles were laid. Has anyone heard of adhesive requiring longer than 7-14 days before the UFH is first turned on or that thermal shock can occur well after this?

Would you expect Granfix to have confirmed in writing to the tiler that they believe the failure to be down to thermal shock and would that include some level of explanation behind why that is the case i.e test report on sample adhesive?

Yes, the problem is on both the old and newly screed floors but is patchy, there are also other areas of the floor that have UFH which are fine.

If I were you, for the sake of a couple of hundred quid, I'd pull up the heating too, and replace it at my own cost, and start again with a fresh floor - just for peace of mind.

You could perhaps write to Granfix yourself and ask for their opinion in writing perhaps. But if it ever went to court I would imagine they have proof that it is thermal shock if they are saying that's what it is (might be worth you getting it in writing though as the tiler could perhaps be saying that?).

The 5mm increase will perhaps be down to the fact that the heating cables have been covered in self-levelling-compound, the tiler wont want to dig into that else he could damage the heating cables. I can't imaging how time consuming it would be to get the adhesive up without damaging SLC though. Perhaps hence the increase in height as he'll avoid digging into that.

If it's coming up anyway, take up a tile yourself and take some pictures for us and perhaps we can help a little more. Though it sounds like you're near a solution to be fair. Just replace the heating at your own cost (perhaps speak to Varme see if they can discount it for you given the situation) and get the tiler to rip the lot up (would be much quicker to do that) and start again.

If you're unhappy with the granfix thing, consider using Mapei or some other adhesive brand maybe.
 

Dan

Admin
Staff member
5,039
1,323
Staffordshire, UK
Re: Help, what could be wrong with my porcelain tiled floor that is li

Yes, the UFH temp was first turned up to 17 degrees (& left that way for the entire summer).

I was always told to turn the heating on to the temperature the floor is already reading, and leave it at that for 24 hours. Then increase it by a degree every 24 hours until it reaches it's maximum temperature after a week or more, then leave it a couple of days, then use it as you wish. Some even bring it back down a degree or two once it's reached it's maximum so you've slowly got the floor to it's warmest temperature and also back down to normal temperature.

Sticking it on to a certain (quite highish) temperature from cold (especially if adhesives are still curing) will shock the floor.

That all said, your floor could have been 17 degrees perhaps from the start so maybe it was okay to set that temperature?
 
R

Rookery

Re: Help, what could be wrong with my porcelain tiled floor that is li

I've had 1 heated floor fail on me in many years of tiling. When I lifted the tiles, it was evident that thermal shock was the cause as you could see the continuous crack in the latex and adhesive exactly following where the cable was underneath. The customer maintained he followed my commisioning instructions though I doubted it and still do. In the end I rectified the problem at my expense to maintain my reputation.
 
H

Herindoors

Re: Help, what could be wrong with my porcelain tiled floor that is li

The UFH temp was set at 17 but it was quite a warm summer that year & I recall the electrician telling us that he had to take the UFH at commission up to about 20-21 to match the floor temp as measured by the UFH sensor/probe in the floor, this was just to check it worked, they then took the temp on the thermostat back to 17 which I assume had the effect of turning off the elements until the floor temp fell below 17 (at night maybe?), as previously said I don't think the UFH fired up that much until we started increasing the temp gradually a couple of months later.
 
H

Herindoors

Re: Help, what could be wrong with my porcelain tiled floor that is li

Thanks for that, is cracking of the adhesive a common symptom of thermal shock?

I am pretty sure there was no cracking to the adhesive, the only thing I remember the tiler commenting on was that the adhesive had a funny orange tinge to it and that he'd never seen it before, nobody spotted (or commented on) any cracking.

I know I need to get a tile up, we'll get there!
 
H

Herindoors

Re: Help, what could be wrong with my porcelain tiled floor that is li

Been a while, but we've had a couple of tiles removed (these tiles could be rocked/moved easily, had a hollow sound when tapped on most of the tile surfaces). See attached photos, any comments/advice gratefully received.

Tiler has still failed to provide a copy of any report from the samples he took & Granfix have been helpful and can't locate any report ref. adhesive samples concerning our address, we will be supplying them with these photos and some grout and adhesive samples for test.

Of the tiles removed, the grout was very easy to scrape out with a Stanley knife and could be easily crushed into powder betweenour fingers, there was no adhesive stuck to the underside of any of the tiles (they were not damaged whatsoever during their removal) and we were able to lever chunks of adhesive off the backer board that is beneath the tiles & adhesive fairly easily (only tools used can be seen in the photos). The partial tile has no UFH beneath it, the whole tile (40x40cm, don't know how I got to 60x60 as stated in one of my previous posts) has UFH to half of the tile. Some of the adhesive has gone an orange colour, some is still grey, not sure if this is significant.
 

Attachments

  • tile 1.jpg
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  • tile 2.jpg
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  • adhesive.jpg
    218.3 KB · Views: 54

macten

TF
Esteemed
Arms
1,871
1,158
Nottingham
Re: Help, what could be wrong with my porcelain tiled floor that is li

Tiles that size, especially porcelain, should be back buttered and the adhesive bed combed on the floor should not need extra blobs to get a level finish. 100% coverage is needed and pic 2 shows about 40% contact that has come clean away due to no back buttering.

The above is the conclusion I would come to personally.
 
H

Herindoors

Re: Help, what could be wrong with my porcelain tiled floor that is li

No it's not your eyesight, those 2 blobs were the only contact point, so conclusion being fixing method to blame I assume? Does the colour of the adhesive going a funny orange suggest something else is wrong in addition to a poor fixing method?

Is it likely that you could just remove the tiles and adhesive and just relay the floor, leaving the UFH "untouched" or would you suggest that the UFH & possibly the tile backer board are replaced too?
 
H

Herindoors

Re: Help, what could be wrong with my porcelain tiled floor that is li

SLC/adhesive (sorry don't know which was applied over the mat, have asked the builder but no surprises that he has yet to come back to me on that one) was applied over the UFH heating mat late afternoon, tilers arrived the following morning and completed the entire floor (including grouting) that day.
 

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