Floor Levelling small area to tile - TilersForums.com

[Tilerdurden]

No mate just lay on top of hardibacker and crack on.

I'd check for flatness prior to installing. You may need to level your floors with self levelling compound before applying your uncoupler. Bal level Max is one of the better ones on the market with decent flexi properties due to fibre strand tech. Can level up to a depth of 80mm in one sitting and is ready to accept light foot traffic usually within 3 hours and largely depending on product depth, ambient and surface temperatures. Best of luck mate.

 

[john56897452]

Thanks for your help mate

 

[john56897452]

Quick question.......looked at Bal rapid mat on line. Do you just lay this on top of the hardie or glue it down, then apply flexible tile adhesive before laying tiles?

 

[Tilerdurden]

Put rapid mat down with tile adhesive. Use a 4mm trowel for this mate. Then tile as usual over top. Hope this helps.

 

[john56897452]

Thanks again Tilerdurden think I've got it now!

 

[Natwasere]

Im struggling to understand why use hardie backer plus decoupling mat? You know hardy backer done to spec is a decoupling system? Just get a straight edge and see how flat it is. Fill with self levelling compound if required and then tile with or without them clips (no experience on them things)

 

[Tilerdurden]

Im struggling to understand why use hardie backer plus decoupling mat? You know hardy backer done to spec is a decoupling system? Just get a straight edge and see how flat it is. Fill with self levelling compound if required and then tile with or without them clips (no experience on them things)

Good luck with that one.....

You do know hardibacker is a tile backer board not an uncoupler. Hardibacker screwed to a timber floor will move with the floor, any lateral movement due to timber expanding and contracting naturally (as timber does) will affect the hardibacker. Hence uncoupling membrane systems to negate transference to tile finish.

Hope that helps in understanding why use both. The backer board will give a solid background over timber sub floor but certainly won't provide adequate protection from movement.

 

[Natwasere]

Good luck with that one.....

You do know hardibacker is a tile backer board not an uncoupler. Hardibacker screwed to a timber floor will move with the floor, any lateral movement due to timber expanding and contracting naturally (as timber does) will affect the hardibacker. Hence uncoupling membrane systems to negate transference to tile finish.

Hope that helps in understanding why use both. The backer board will give a solid background over timber sub floor but certainly won't provide adequate protection from movement.

Matting provides you with limited latereral movement, it says that in most of their own specs. In fact I think that alot of them spec a ply overlay first By using hardibacker board you are infact decoupling it from the floor beneath. To use both is madness both cost and height wise, and whilst I love decoupling matting it's not better then hardibacker boards imo.

 

[Tilerdurden]

Matting provides you with limited latereral movement, it says that in most of their own specs. In fact I think that alot of them spec a ply overlay first By using hardibacker board you are infact decoupling it from the floor beneath. To use both is madness both cost and height wise, and whilst I love decoupling matting it's not better then hardibacker boards imo.

How do you fix your backer boards?

 

[Natwasere]

How do you fix your backer boards?

Using flexi thin set and screws 25mm. As per their own instructions.