6mm Hardiebacker

[Gazebo]

Good morning all.
Hope you all had a very merry xmas and are taking it easy before the New Year.

Is the 6mm Hardibacker board from topps any good as an insulation board for elec ufh.?

Cheers Gary

 

[davy_G]

Hi Gazebo, have a word with the forums sponsor Uheat, they can give you all the info you need as well as excellent products at good prices

 

[diamondtiling]

Same advice as Davy's, Uheat offer the 10mm board at a fantastic price.

 

[Time's Ran Out]

Gazebo - The Hardi Backer board is a cement based waterproof sub base suitable for overboarding on top of timber substrates. As such I don't imagine that it has any insulating properties.
For any thermal insulation required a product such as 'Dukkaboard'/similar should be considered.

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

I've just used Hardi backer board, on a small bathroom floor with ufh. bit worried about all the health warnings, ie. do'nt make dust etc.:yikes:

 

[Gazebo]

Not sure about the health warnings part.

I know about the products uheat advise, was just wondering if there are any products out there that do both jobs.
i.e give the floor some structural integrity (hardibacker)
and have insulating properties(marmox, wedi, aquapanel thermal floor)

 

[grumpygrouter]

Not sure about the health warnings part.

I know about the products uheat advise, was just wondering if there are any products out there that do both jobs.
i.e give the floor some structural integrity (hardibacker)
and have insulating properties(marmox, wedi, aquapanel thermal floor)

Hardiebacker doesn't give structural integrity, it gives a stable surface to tile onto. Hardiebacker literature states that the floor should be sufficiently strong to accept the extra weight of the tiling installation BEFORE you start to use hardie and provides a formula to calculate the maximum allowable deflection for tiling.

 

[Gazebo]

Cheers Grumps

If you using Hardibacker instead of ply then are you not expecting it reduce any minor deflection in the existing floor be it boards or ply.??

If it helps create a 'STABLE' surface to tile onto does that not make it stronger.??

if you existing floor is sound why use hardibacker.??(wet rooms excused.)

 

[Gazebo]

Just reading some more posts and advice with regards to 6mm hardiebacker and found this.
hi ripkord

thanks for the drawing there. that certainly helps to explain the situation more.

if the join between 2 boards is where you say, and there is no additional overboarding on the floor before the tiles were laid, I think it's pretty conclusive that the tiles, adhesive and grout failed because there was too much flex/movement in the boards under the tiles.

You need to take all the tiles up and start again in my opinion. a 6mm hardibacker board that covers both floor boards and straddles the seam would be more helpful to you. securing the hardibacker at 300mm centres or less will give the floor more rigidity and will stop the tiles cracking under the movement.

I don't see how the ply will give you any further rigidity.. The hardibacker will give the right amount of rigidity to the floor without adding an additional layer to it.

If the original floor boards are warped though, I would suggest you sort them out first if the warping causes a bump in the floor. Perhaps it might need additional screws to the joists?

I've just gutted my bathroom and have chipboard sheets down as my floorboards, and now that the original flooring (lino and laminate) has been removed and air has been allowed the flow, the damp areas of chipboard have now dried out.

best of luck and let us know how you get on. a good saying I came across on here is "Do it right, do it once"

GRR

it would seem that some people think hardiebacker does give the floor some extra rigidity.
confused even more now.

 

[grumpygrouter]

Cheers Grumps

If you using Hardibacker instead of ply then are you not expecting it reduce any minor deflection in the existing floor be it boards or ply.??

If it helps create a 'STABLE' surface to tile onto does that not make it stronger.??

if you existing floor is sound why use hardibacker.??(wet rooms excused.)

"stable" as in it has far less movement where moisture is concerned. If you are tiling onto a "solid" chipboard floor, then hardie will give a much more secure surface to tile onto. Any floor with flex needs to be strengthened to eliminate the possibility of cracking before hardie is used as the final surface ready for tiling. Nowhere in the Hardie literature does it say it adds strength. As such, if it is used in such a way to add strength and it fails the user would have no recourse from Hardie as they clearly state that the floor should have adequate strength in the first place. This isn't my opinion, it is written fact.