Discuss Uneven floor out by 60mm in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com.

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Hi all!

Doing a bathroom 3.9m long, the floor currently is tiled and run out from the door to the other end of the room by 60mm.

im wondering whats best practice.

ive seen you can get self level compound upto like 80mm but I’m unsure whether to use it.

the floor is having karndean vinly put down to, but obviously want my floor level for the wall tiling.

thanks in advance!!
 

Tony_C

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Why does the floor need to be level for wall tiling? just cut your tiles to the slope with a nice chunky cut.

Assuming it's tiles of a decent size and not metro...

I'm thinking more of what the doorway would end up if you attempt to level it by that much
 
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Why does the floor need to be level for wall tiling? just cut your tiles to the slope with a nice chunky cut.

Assuming it's tiles of a decent size and not metro...

I'm thinking more of what the doorway would end up if you attempt to level it by that much

Thanks for adding to the post!
the flooring at the doorway is fine, it’s just the other end of the room, a 60mm slope

the tiles are 550x330 so a good size for cuts, but i think you notice the size of the cuts from the doorway to the other end of the room
 

Ajax123

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What's the floor made of. I assume its timber in which case putting 80mm of levelling screed on could cause major issues.
 
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What's the floor made of. I assume its timber in which case putting 80mm of levelling screed on could cause major issues.

this was my concern, i read on here somewhere that just a 25kg bag weighs around 52kgs 😯 (if I’m correct there)

think the only Option would be to redo the floor.

it is timber floor
 

CJ

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If it’s that far out, I’d be concerned.

only thing you can do is totally redo the floor. Rip up and level joists.
 
D

Dumbo

60mm = 102 kg a square metre
A 25kg bag weighs 25kg when its dry
Probably about 30kg wet
 

Ajax123

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60mm = 102 kg a square metre
A 25kg bag weighs 25kg when its dry
Probably about 30kg wet

Fairly close. The usual declared dry density is 20kg for every 10mm depth that's because a 25kg bag is not fully compacted so in terms of volume it's different to 25kg of compacted laid screed. If that makes sense.
[automerge]1583313095[/automerge]
If it’s that far out, I’d be concerned.

only thing you can do is totally redo the floor. Rip up and level joists.

Why? My house is timber floors and all the upstairs floors run out by 50mm plus mostly running from the central supporting wall to the outside supporting wall. It's due to time and settlement and slightly wonky building. I have no clue how I would RIP out and straighten up without massive disruption and some fairly robust building work upstairs and downstairs. My house was built in 1740... some houses are just a bit wonky. Ripping out is not really a viable solution.
 

CJ

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Fairly close. The usual declared dry density is 20kg for every 10mm depth that's because a 25kg bag is not fully compacted so in terms of volume it's different to 25kg of compacted laid screed. If that makes sense.
[automerge]1583313095[/automerge]


Why? My house is timber floors and all the upstairs floors run out by 50mm plus mostly running from the central supporting wall to the outside supporting wall. It's due to time and settlement and slightly wonky building. I have no clue how I would RIP out and straighten up without massive disruption and some fairly robust building work upstairs and downstairs. My house was built in 1740... some houses are just a bit wonky. Ripping out is not really a viable solution.

Well, by the sounds of it, the poster wants a level floor. Taking up floorboards and sorting joists out isn’t THAT a major job. Better than a shed load of self level.

I'm the same as you, if it’s a old property, and the floors/walls are all over the place, then you work with what you’ve got.
 

widler

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Board in 6mm cement boards , board the back area gradually up in from the centre to the back , build the rest out in slc to the front end .
Easiest job in the world
 

Boggs

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You could lift the existing floor and add some firrings to the joists, I think this is what I would do.
60mm is a fair drop even over 4m.
 
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Thanks for all replies!

think this is the option we’re going for, keep costs down.

the house was built in 1840, so it’s abit wonky 😄


Board in 6mm cement boards , board the back area gradually up in from the centre to the back , build the rest out in slc to the front end .
Easiest job in the world
 

widler

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Thanks for all replies!

think this is the option we’re going for, keep costs down.

the house was built in 1840, so it’s abit wonky 😄
It’s just as good as the other options ,and a lot easier and cheaper than lifting everything and re laying joints and floor boards .
I have done it loads in many houses
 
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my effort on my wonky old house from the days pre spirit levels!! Well, strictly speaking not fully my effort. i had to lift the floor due to the old shower leaking and added the noggins, rescrewed/bolted the exisitng, replace the furthest joist, add in the second furthest since it was missing etc etc.

labour of love these old gaff's !!

IMG_4625.jpg
 

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