Uncoupling membrane vs no more ply, when & where?

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Scott HAZARD

Hi everyone, newbie here, have had previous tiling experience and decided to give it another go, although this time self-employed. Have recently taken a crash course to scratch up on skills and give myself a better foundation of knowledge, cannot wait to get started.


I’m still a little confused with some subjects, I’m sure your good selves will know the answers.


1) Uncoupling membrane, used for lateral movement in a wooden/plywood and new concrete floors, old concrete without any appearance of cracks can go without the matt?

2) This leads straight into using no more ply on top of floorboards, instead of plywood, would this mean that you do not need the uncoupling membrane now?

3) If so, what size no more ply is recommended to install on a wooden floor? I’m sure; I’ve seen somewhere that you can install 6mm. But to hold this in your hand is flexible, I don’t see how this can be as strong as 12-18mm plywood.

4) Lastly, if a matt is installed, I’ve also read that you put standard non-flex adhesive down first and install the matt and flexi adhesive on top, is this right and what is the reason behind it?
 
Personally I always use ply to strengthen floor with membrane on top and use flexible adhesive top and bottom.
I know some members will disagree but it works for .
 
I always use 6mm Hardie to over-board a timber floor, glued & screwed. I would only use an uncoupling membrane if I was fixing stone or on to a newish screed. Keraquick on every floor.
 
Thanks for your replies, it seems that both ways are fine if neither of you, have any reported problems further down the line and is entirely down to the preference of who is installing it.
 
Morning Scott,

We have used both ways when tiling in the past and we found it really depended on the quality of the floor we were tiling on.
If a timber floor had some bounce/flex in it we used to use a 12mm plywood screwed and glued every 150mm and then a de-coupling over the top.
If it was a fairly solid/strong timber floor we just used a de-coupling membrane (always fixed with a flexible adhesive).
Screed floors we only used de-coupling when the floor construction was a block and beam floor with a piled foundation as we found they tended to have more movement that a traditional construction floor.
Although now we are finding more and more tradesman and even the national house builders are using de-coupling on all types of floors when they are to be tiled and they have seen a huge decrease in the amount of repairs and faults.

I hope this helps you, and if i can help further or answer any questions please feel free to contact us 🙂

Sam
 
.
Although now we are finding more and more tradesman and even the national house builders are using de-coupling on all types of floors when they are to be tiled and they have seen a huge decrease in the amount of repairs and faults.

Do you think that coincides with the advent of the 1mm antifracture mats Sam?
 
Do you think that coincides with the advent of the 1mm antifracture mats Sam?
Funny enough we were talking about that this week, possibly that's why these 1mm systems started appearing fairly rapidly. We know of one large tiling firm who used one of the 1mm polystyrene anti fracture mats specified by one of the national house builders (this was roughly 3 years ago) they began to use it on all floors and have since had to replace 70 percent of the floors. So we aren't huge fans of these 1mm systems. Since the tiling firm and the national house builders have moved on to the Schluter and Dural matting systems and its no longer causing a problem.
 

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