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Discuss Wood Effect Plank Tile - 1st row start point? in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com.

I

Ian

You mentioned in your opening post that the cut to the underside of the window would be 30mm, there looks to be plenty of room to pick the sill up with a couple of pieces of plasterboard, that could make your cut closer to 55/60mm. I quite often alter the reveals to suit set out, if of course it's possible.
 
3

#32

I was thinking the same or even if it's a blue primer I'd give it enough coats to have a even colour every where
kind of ignore the blue tanking under the window as that was just a bit left in the bucket that I slapped on where the sink is going, just to finish the bucket off, as it doesn't really need it there. But if you are referring to the other 2 (wet area shower) walls, ie where the shower niche is in the pictures then please say. I covered it with 3 coats and didn't spread it thinly and thought that was enough??
 
3

#32

Have you put the straight edge across the whole width of the wall?
looks good with a straight edge on it? Variation must be 0.5mm to 1mm max i guess.
DSC_3273.JPG
DSC_3274.JPG
 
3

#32

You mentioned in your opening post that the cut to the underside of the window would be 30mm, there looks to be plenty of room to pick the sill up with a couple of pieces of plasterboard, that could make your cut closer to 55/60mm. I quite often alter the reveals to suit set out, if of course it's possible.
Thanks for the good idea.
Just measured it and could go all way up another 35mm which would actually bring it to match the top section of the window frame. Just mechanical fixings screw the layers of plasterboard together & into the window revel or tile adhesive between each layer as well / instead of? would be a few layers?
DSC_3275.JPG
DSC_3276.JPG
 

Bathfix Bob

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With niches I always plan my tile cuts first and then put the nice to suit the tile set out, its neater and saves you compromising later.
This is with me doing everything in a bathroom.
 
I

Ian

Thanks for the good idea.
Just measured it and could go all way up another 35mm which would actually bring it to match the top section of the window frame. Just mechanical fixings screw the layers of plasterboard together & into the window revel or tile adhesive between each layer as well / instead of? would be a few layers? View attachment 86278 View attachment 86279
Just stick each layer with tile adhesive. 3 bits of 12mm plasterboard will get you another 40mm or so on that cut under the window, including adhesive.
 
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To answer your previous question about self levelling devices. Yes definitely purchase one. I find my one indispensable. Purchase a good one though. Things to consider: shoots vertical, horizontal and both together - creating a 90 degree angle for you. Specs will tell you it's degree of accuracy over a determined distance so you can compare quality. Ensure it has a locking lever, this will help to maintain its accuracy as it can get knocked on site or during transportation. Mine also has a self calibration system to check its continued accuracy, even then I still get it checked/ serviced every year. It's a big expense but will pay for its self many times over.
 
L

LM

To answer your previous question about self levelling devices. Yes definitely purchase one. I find my one indispensable. Purchase a good one though. Things to consider: shoots vertical, horizontal and both together - creating a 90 degree angle for you. Specs will tell you it's degree of accuracy over a determined distance so you can compare quality. Ensure it has a locking lever, this will help to maintain its accuracy as it can get knocked on site or during transportation. Mine also has a self calibration system to check its continued accuracy, even then I still get it checked/ serviced every year. It's a big expense but will pay for its self many times over.
What make and model do you have @emmettcraik
 

Kyle Knowles

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To answer your previous question about self levelling devices. Yes definitely purchase one. I find my one indispensable. Purchase a good one though. Things to consider: shoots vertical, horizontal and both together - creating a 90 degree angle for you. Specs will tell you it's degree of accuracy over a determined distance so you can compare quality. Ensure it has a locking lever, this will help to maintain its accuracy as it can get knocked on site or during transportation. Mine also has a self calibration system to check its continued accuracy, even then I still get it checked/ serviced every year. It's a big expense but will pay for its self many times over.
What exactly go's into servicing a laser level ?
 

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