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Discuss Why do you guys that regularly mitre in the Tile Cutters and Tiling Tools area at TilersForums.com

D

Dumbo

As above , do them by hand as opposed to using something like the sigma 37b jolly angle,
 
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I do the odd job where it’s fully mitred and never used a specific machine. Do these machines rely on a perfectly machined edge for the mitre to come out well as the machine has to be dragged along the edge? If so then that’s a reason to not use the machine as most mitres I do are on a scored and snapped cut.
 
O

Old Mod

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Few reasons Jerry tbh.
Firstly, personally having tried a number of purpose built machines, and in fact owned them, they’re not up to the standard I need.
They’d work well with Schluters Finec trim, or somewhere where a much larger joint is used on the mitre, you don’t need to get too close to the leading edge.
In fact I’ve just finished this, 5 mins ago.

image.jpg


Machines are too heavy and have a lot of vibration, causing the front to sometimes break out.
That edge is less than 1mm, even if photo doesn’t do it justice :tearsofjoy:

Those machines that run on rails, do exactly that, so for example, if you place the rail on the piece and it does not follow the face of the tile exactly, the machine just carries on regardless, following the line of the rail.
This means that if the tile dips in the middle for instance, the cutting or grinding blade will come up thro the front and you won’t even feel it happen. You’ll just see it after the machine passes over it.
By hand, the tools will give feedback and you’ll adjust the angle/line/pressure accordingly.
Machines can’t do that.
And I’m also a firm believer that you need to be able to reach a high standard by hand and eye first, before you even attempt to use a machine.
How’s that for a reason? :tearsofjoy:

image.jpg


image.jpg

One expensive toilet roll holder. :tearsofjoy:
I do the odd job where it’s fully mitred and never used a specific machine. Do these machines rely on a perfectly machined edge for the mitre to come out well as the machine has to be dragged along the edge? If so then that’s a reason to not use the machine as most mitres I do are on a scored and snapped cut.
No, they don’t need a machine edge, a scored line is fine.
Just ease off the leading edge with a diamond pad first so that when you mitre, you shouldn’t get tiny chips on the edge.
Tile dependant sometimes, and practice of course.
 
D

Dumbo

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #4
Few reasons Jerry tbh.
Firstly, personally having tried a number of purpose built machines, and in fact owned them, they’re not up to the standard I need.
They’d work well with Schluters Finec trim, or somewhere where a much larger joint is used on the mitre, you don’t need to get too close to the leading edge.
In fact I’ve just finished this, 5 mins ago.

View attachment 109079


Machines are too heavy and have a lot of vibration, causing the front to sometimes break out.
That edge is less than 1mm, even if photo doesn’t do it justice :tearsofjoy:

Those machines that run on rails, do exactly that, so for example, if you place the rail on the piece and it does not follow the face of the tile exactly, the machine just carries on regardless, following the line of the rail.
This means that if the tile dips in the middle for instance, the cutting or grinding blade will come up thro the front and you won’t even feel it happen. You’ll just see it after the machine passes over it.
By hand, the tools will give feedback and you’ll adjust the angle/line/pressure accordingly.
Machines can’t do that.
And I’m also a firm believer that you need to be able to reach a high standard by hand and eye first, before you even attempt to use a machine.
How’s that for a reason? :tearsofjoy:

View attachment 109080


View attachment 109081

One expensive toilet roll holder. :tearsofjoy:

No, they don’t need a machine edge, a scored line is fine.
Just ease off the leading edge with a diamond pad first so that when you mitre, you shouldn’t get tiny chips on the edge.
Tile dependant sometimes, and practice of course.
Fair enough .
Hand job then
 
O

Old Mod

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #5
Fair enough .
Hand job then
:thumbsup:

It’s like anything Jerry, why do I prefer a sigma slide cutter when others prefer Rubi/Montolit.
Just do what suits you best, and forget everyone else mate.
There aren’t any rules. :)
 
D

Dumbo

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #6
:thumbsup:

It’s like anything Jerry, why do I prefer a sigma slide cutter when others prefer Rubi/Montolit.
Just do what suits you best, and forget everyone else mate.
There aren’t any rules. :)
I agree with the what suits you best , I've had cutters that I've given away because I think they're rubbish but it's obviously they didn't suit me , it just that some people come up with an answer for something that isn't a great product , so any advice from someone like yourself that does this on a regular basics is greatly appreciated even though it is only an opinion
 
Joined
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Few reasons Jerry tbh.
Firstly, personally having tried a number of purpose built machines, and in fact owned them, they’re not up to the standard I need.
They’d work well with Schluters Finec trim, or somewhere where a much larger joint is used on the mitre, you don’t need to get too close to the leading edge.
In fact I’ve just finished this, 5 mins ago.

View attachment 109079


Machines are too heavy and have a lot of vibration, causing the front to sometimes break out.
That edge is less than 1mm, even if photo doesn’t do it justice :tearsofjoy:

Those machines that run on rails, do exactly that, so for example, if you place the rail on the piece and it does not follow the face of the tile exactly, the machine just carries on regardless, following the line of the rail.
This means that if the tile dips in the middle for instance, the cutting or grinding blade will come up thro the front and you won’t even feel it happen. You’ll just see it after the machine passes over it.
By hand, the tools will give feedback and you’ll adjust the angle/line/pressure accordingly.
Machines can’t do that.
And I’m also a firm believer that you need to be able to reach a high standard by hand and eye first, before you even attempt to use a machine.
How’s that for a reason? :tearsofjoy:

View attachment 109080


View attachment 109081

One expensive toilet roll holder. :tearsofjoy:

No, they don’t need a machine edge, a scored line is fine.
Just ease off the leading edge with a diamond pad first so that when you mitre, you shouldn’t get tiny chips on the edge.
Tile dependant sometimes, and practice of course.
A scored line that has been neatened up then? These machines do rely on the edge being reasonable flat then? I’ve never used one or know how they’re used but might take a look at some videos
 
O

Old Mod

  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #8
A scored line that has been neatened up then? These machines do rely on the edge being reasonable flat then? I’ve never used one or know how they’re used but might take a look at some videos
It’s not that they rely on it for any technical reason.
But if you don’t at least tidy up the leading edge itself, you know sometimes if you over score a line, when you snap it, it can leave tiny chips along the edge, especially a polished finish.
Well, they can get worse, it can flick the glaze off, for want of a better description.
When the leading edge is smooth, this is far less likely to happen.
Not talking the whole thickness, just top edge itself.
 
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Thanks, I understand exactly what you mean now.
 

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