Tuscan Levelling System - TilersForums.com

[jay]

thanks Rob

 

[Rob Z]

Hi everyone, I keep waiting until I have plenty of time to type out a review, but that hasn't been happening lately because of too much work.

So, let me start with a few comments, and I'll add onto this when I can.

First, I have used all the models of the tightening gun that TLS sells. The cheap one costs about $100, and the premium one is over $300. It is WELL WORTH the money to get the more expensive one. Not only does it have more fine control (fewer or none accidentally broken straps), it's easier on your hand and, believe it or not, your hand will be less tired at the end of the day after using the better quality gun rather than the cheap one. I never thought this would be the case, but it does get to be a bit of a strain on the hand muscles, especially when breaking off hundreds of straps.

Second, once the straps are set and tightened for an area of tile, the ENTIRE field of tile can be adjusted. I have now taken to setting multiple tiles, strapping and tightening them, and then use a straight edge to shift the entire field to final placement. I'm taliing about moving stuff 1/16" or an 1/8", NOT more than that and not so much that it's messing with the thinset underneath. THis might speed things up a bit and will be a trade-off for the added time spent messing with the straps.

Third, as I said above in an earlier post, I think this product should be renamed as "Tuscan Alignment System". It aligns wonderully well, but will not make any LEVEL. That's up to you to do either with substrate prep or setting techniques, or a mix of both. THese straps and caps, if used properly, will get the tiles flushed up with each other about as good as can be done. It won't ever get an installationn to be as mirror-flat as a stone installation that has been ground-in-place, but it can be darn close to it.

BTW, and this is important to note: This only works as well as the tile is flat on the top. If it's warped, then TLS is only going to help you to "split the differnce", and will get it as close as can be.

Fourth, TLS straps and caps virtually eliminate tiles from moving or sagging after you've moved on to other work. I use some high-flex, high-latex content thinsets, and one annoying thing about them is they have an elastic "rubber band" sort of property. Tiles that are set with these materials will "creep" back in the direction from which the tile was originally set and then slid into position. Jay will know one of these thinsets: Laticrete 254. The TLS straps, when used properly, "tie" the tile into the other tiles, and with increase mass the tiles stop moving or sagging. The one thinset we use that won't sag whatsoever is Laticrete 220 medium bed, but it's not appropriate for all installations.

I tried to get photos of us using the straps, but they didn't come out very well (I used my camera on the phone). I'll try to remember to get some shots with the good camera next time we use TLS.

Fifth, the cost of TLS. There is a lot of moaning and groaning about the cost of TLS. The gun and the caps are a fixed cost, and can be reused on many jobs.

The straps are consumables, and need to be included in each job. They are about $0.30 each. I just did a bathroom which required slightly more than one bucket of straps (500 per bucket). A bucket of 500, with sales tax, costs $157.00. So it cost me about $160/165 for straps for the bathroom. I charged the customer and they were happy to pay for it...but even if it were a job where I couldn't have openly charged for the straps, in my opinion they are worth it. If these save me and my guys only a couple hours worth of labor, then it's a break-even thing. Anything more than that, and it's gravy.

Here are a few pics that my customer took and sent to me. One thing that was nice about TLS was that the walls were out of plumb on the two ends of the shower base. I wanted to float these walls to true them up, but that was out of the question because of clearances for the plumbing fixtures and some other issues. So, these walls were prepped with CBU's. WIth TLS, I was able to set the tile in the line above the curb and get it virtually plumb. The straps helped to hold it all together, with no sagging, shifting, or crushing of spacers, until the thinset cured. (these tiles were almost 1/2" and very heavy).

The customers spent hours sorting the veining and had it all laid out for us, which was great because I didn't have to do any thinking.:smilewinkgrin:

 

[Rob Z]

You'll see in one picture that there is no door trim next to the vanity...that door will get installed this week.

 

[Rob Z]

Another thing I learned on this job...the Festool Rotex sander, with the PLATIN abrasive set (from 400-4000 grit), can be used to polish and bullnose glass. That's what was done so the glass could turn the corner outside the shower.

 

[DHTiling]

Looks great rob..

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Nice work Rob, get it on jotm comp

 

[Rob Z]

Nice work Rob, get it on jotm comp

Thanks for the compliment, Phil...but it's not of JOTM caliber.

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Looks like it is to me Rob.

 

[DHTiling]

Thanks for the compliment, Phil...but it's not of JOTM caliber.

why..?

One day Rob the Snow king will win..

 

[Rob Z]

The last couple of years, I haven't had that many interesting tile jobs. They've had some tricky details to deal with, but not much of a "pizazz" factor like I see some of you guys posting here.

We're finishing the glass shower job that I told you all about several months ago. Now that it's in, I'm really kind of depressed about it. I think we did a good job, but the design is really bad and I think the owners are too thrilled about it. But we're stuck with all of it because the designer has run of the house and is changing everything (including work that we did in the kitchen five years ago).