Splitface Tile Questions - TilersForums.com

[Sand-man]

Hello,

Ok i've recently redone the kitchen and after a wee bit of advice/sanity check.

I have a section of plastered wall 1400x2300 which has been sealed and i plan on putting up split face slate tiles 400x125. The floor is joists with laminate floor.

The info I'm finding is to screw a baton at the second tile row level, tile the wall, wait for it to cure, remove baton then tile first row, is this correct? Or can I can stack these tiles from the floor up, the weight being taken vertically by the tiles below (thickest tiles are on the bottom), done over a period to allow the lower tiles to cure.

This leads me on to my second question, because of any flex in the floor, do I need a flexible joint along the base of the floor, if so, what should it consists of? Or like above just stack them up.

I was at the building merchants looking at Weber set rapid SPF low dust which seems adequate for the job,

Thanks

 

[Unused Account 1]

I do it that way ,set the wall out ,put baton level at second row level ,let it go off then put the bottom in ,or you can draw a level line ,use laser if have ,and cut the bottom row to the line ,check for level ,then work your way up ,

 

[Sand-man]

Cheers for replying
I'm liking the idea of cutting the base row to level, so no expansion joint needed between where tiles are at contact with the floor?

 

[p4ulo]

Still need a small expansion joint in there are the floor mate, best way if you want to start from the floor, is the lay your first set on a row of laid down spacers.

 

[Sand-man]

Cheers p4ulo,

The base tiles will be supporting the weight but still suspended from the floor,

I must be looking at tiling like its brick work, trying to get the weight supported to the floor, as each tile is about 1.5kg

 

[p4ulo]

All the tiles will be supporting their weight, with a little bit of help from the bottom until they "set-up" with the adhesive. Think of it more like whacking on a thick layer of plaster, it supports itself.

Just looking back at your first post, the plaster board you are tiling onto, when you say it has been "sealed" do you mean you have primed it with a suitable primer for your adhesive.

 

[Sand-man]

It's an internal load bearing wall with the original plaster coating that's been sealed/primed with zinsser gardz

 

[p4ulo]

Oh right. I don't know if that will take tile, looks like its designed for painting or wallpapering onto. Maybe check with their support dept, before you sand it off and re-prime.

 

[Spare Tool]

If the floors level as Paulo says lay spacers or wedges to give a small joint, if not id fix a level batton and cut floor in after..if your using Webber should really have primed with their pr360 but owts better than pva, id use Webber slow set plus for fixing...hate rushing about with rapidset!!

 

[Sand-man]

So after a 8 minutes on hold, spoke to zinseer tech dept, who's advising that the sealer should be adequate to take an adhesive,

Also checked the technical data sheet for Zinsser Gardz (Clear, water-based, acrylic resin sealer) and Weber pr360 (styrene acrylate).

 

[p4ulo]

Good checking @Sand-man , looks like you are good to go!!!

 

[Sand-man]

Cool, thanks guys for your help