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S

slikt

Hi, been tiling on and off for many years. My question is, i'm about to do my kitchen floor and I wanted to check what i'm about to do is the correct way as it'll work out a very costly mistake, I just wanted to know about the correct procedures :)

The floor is concrete with patchy SLC that is under vinyl tiles, and i'm looking to install UFH mats and porcelain 600x600 tiles. . . so. . .

1. Prepare sub floor with primer
2. Use flexi adhesive to fix insulation boards (are they always necessary)?
3. Fix UFH to boards
4. Use SLC to cover entire area at a 2-3mm thickness?
5. Use Rapid flexi adhesive to fix tiles.
6. Grout

Can you guys recommend the right products, I normally use BAL rapid set flexible?

As said, I need to get this right as there is alot or prep work and an expensive mistake if I missed something out.

Any advice and comments are more than welcome and thank you in advance. . :)
 

Alan.P

TF
Reaction score
198
I would lift the vinyl tiles and remove any loose slc, depending on how deep any pits were you could slc over them or use a bit of rapid to level them when you fix the insulation boards down, are the boards necessary ?? personal choice, they will improve the heat from the mat as obviously it's not having to heat the concrete floor, the thickness of the slc depends on the mat, obviously you need to make surethat it is covered so as not to damage it when trowling your adhesive, apart from that, you have it covered I think.
 
S

slikt

Cheers Alan,

Yeah I was gonna lift the old tiles and fill the floor where needed, would it be ok to use the BAL single part flexi to adhere the boards ok as I was reading that certain adhesives (solvent based) will compromise the integrity of the boards?
 
Y

Yorkshire Tiling Services

as above..... would always install insulation boards as these will reduce initial warm up time & heat loss, thus increasing the efficiency of your UFH.... thus long term saving you £££ in electricity costs
 
S

slikt

Also what SLC would you guys recommend, i'm assuming I need a flexi/latex based one, or can I just use normal and add latex to it?
 
D

Daz

I'm an Ardex man, so would usually use Arditex NA (latex based) but recently I've been feeling a lot of love for Mapei Renovation Screed.

Both are really good.

Daz
 
M

Mike

i use mapei renovation screed which is a single part flexible slc. not the cheapest slc but the best i've used
 
S

slikt

i use mapei renovation screed which is a single part flexible slc. not the cheapest slc but the best i've used

Cheers Mike,

Am I to assume that I dont need any additive for this product, just making sure as i'm laying it on 6mm insulation board :)
 
M

Mike

just the recomended amount of water, 4.25 to 4.5 litres per bag if my memory tells me right (i have had a few slurps tonight though):lol:
 
D

Daz

Cheers Mike,

Am I to assume that I dont need any additive for this product, just making sure as i'm laying it on 6mm insulation board :)

Is there any reason why you can't stretch to 10mm insulation boards? They will be far more effective that the 6mm boards.

Daz
 
S

slikt

Is there any reason why you can't stretch to 10mm insulation boards? They will be far more effective that the 6mm boards.

Daz

No other reason than I have 6mm in my living room and wanted to keep the same level as my oak floor at the threshold, will 10mm make that much difference mate?
 
S

slikt

Are the tiles plus adhesive likely to be the same thickness as the wood floor? You may have some tolerance there. Also a transition strip between the two floors will disguise any height differences.

Good luck,

Daz

Yeah very true and it will only be a minimal mm or 2. .I will look into maybe going with the 10mm. I'll have a read up mate, cheers
 

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