If I can do it anyone can.

[UITA]

Right I've decided to document my trial and errors for your amusement. Over the next couple of weeks I'm going to have a go at laying some riven slate tiles (well I've laid laminate so it can't be that hard!!!!).

Why am I doing this? I've just bought a new place and as I teach have had little time to put into the doing up of the place and as I've got the summer hols coming up I need to say "I did that" for something.

"Get someone in to do it" I'd prefer not to hear although it will probably be the very wisest of suggestions I'll hear here. If this fails I'll have no problems smashing it all up and then taking the advice.

So if you don't mind me wasting your time and asking some stupid/obvious questions I'll carry on. Next post will show some photos of the room and tiles. As it's the kitchen there will be a lot of floor space taken up with units.

 

[faithhealer]

bring it on, but we don't get amusement just satisfaction from a job well done. as timeless John as already mentioned though, have you the tools for the job, main one being a wet cutter

 

[Daz]

I'm sure this is going to be an interesting thread. I hope we can help you turn out a great job .

 

[paulyoung666]

Right I've decided to document my trial and errors for your amusement. Over the next couple of weeks I'm going to have a go at laying some riven slate tiles (well I've laid laminate so it can't be that hard!!!!).

Why am I doing this? I've just bought a new place and as I teach have had little time to put into the doing up of the place and as I've got the summer hols coming up I need to say "I did that" for something.

"Get someone in to do it" I'd prefer not to hear although it will probably be the very wisest of suggestions I'll hear here. If this fails I'll have no problems smashing it all up and then taking the advice.

So if you don't mind me wasting your time and asking some stupid/obvious questions I'll carry on. Next post will show some photos of the room and tiles. As it's the kitchen there will be a lot of floor space taken up with units.

big up to you for having a go , if it wasnt for this site then i would have used completely the wrong addy for my porcelain backsplash , plus the hints and tips i recieved helped me to achieve an ok result , not brilliant and certainly not to a pro standard , but far better for the help from here

 

[UITA]

Wet cutter......check, went to screwfix and bought one of those. Got a chalk line, trowels, buckets, rubber hammer, spirt level, bolster. Please throw in other things I might need and if possible where to get them. I should warn I don't like paying over the odds for stuff (tight arse). Bought a spirit level from WHAT for £12 when B+Q were selling them for £70!!!!! Now I'm probably going to sound real ignorant here but isn't one bubble like the others?

Put some SLC down today, didn't really know what to expect but yeah it was OK, maybe a little too thick at first but soon got the hang of it.

As I said photos tomorrow but here's some of the things that are going through my mind.

• The room is about 4X4 square, where should I start?
• Should I skimp on adesive? There's a local No frills store that sells it a lot cheaper than the big brands. What am I looking to pay for this size room?
• Same as above but for sealer.
• The tiles vary from a wafer thin mint to a doorstop crust. Can I make up the thickness with adesive?
• Doorways scare me, should I be afraid, there's one either side of the room.

 

[faithhealer]

don't skimp on addy, sounds like you have already bought cheap tiles

 

[Scott]

Start with the thickest first and please dont skimp on the cost of the adhesive!

You may need to pack out the thinner tiles by a fair depth so wyou will need a decent adhesive that is able to cope with the depth and not slump.

By the way, my motto is buy cheap buy twice but as your not going to really use the level much after this it should be ok but you tend to get what you pay for with tools. You can check the level by putting in on the wall and marking a line then turn it round (from left to right) and che the line again. If its not the same take it back

As for where to start, measure the centre line each way in the room and square it to the door and units. 'Ping' a chalk line and work out the tiles from the line to the walls/units to see what kind of cuts you will get, you can either put the tile to the line or stradle it over the centre of it. IF it wont work out with decent cuts then you can shift it left/right/forward/back etc until you are happy

 

[UITA]

Thanks, I won't skimp on the adesive. Don't think the tiles are that cheap more a case of my inexperience when choosing the tiles, took some dogs back and the guy said he thought I was "easily pleased" when they were putting them on the back of my truck.

So I'm guessing best not to go with ready mix. My options are B+Q, Wickes, Homebase, Screwfix, Ebay, Topps Tiles. Where's the best to go? Cardiff, Newport are local enough if anyone can help as to where to go.

 

[Colour Republic]

Now I'm probably going to sound real ignorant here but isn't one bubble like the others?

A bubble is a bubble but the way it is mounted, in what liquid, where the centre lines are marked, how the level is machined, how resistant the level is to bowing can vary drastically.

As Scottley says you can do a test to see if the level is out but over a short distance it may not show, use the level to draw a line the whole way round the room, now even though the level is reading as such by the time you complete the line you could be 4,5,6,7,8mm+ out. Which suggest the level is not very accurate. A decent level will minimise this and give you better results. All levels have a margin of error it's just how big that margin is.

As you are unlikely to have as much use for a level as a professional would, then there is no need to spend big. But also if you cut corners then the job could be ruined.

There are certain areas you can save money, like some tools that you can do without but make a pro's job easier, there are other areas you should spend the money like quality materials that come with guarantees if used correctly

 

[White Room]

No readymix:yikes:

 

[UITA]

Yeah I can appreciate spending on decent tools. My main tool is the electric guitar and although the Chinese make a very eye pleasing instrument I'm not sure it's going to last as long as my 74 Gibson.

 

[White Room]

The guiter is going to a tough call as a tile cutter:lol:

 

[MARBLE_TONY]

Any thoughts on sealing this slate? what finish you going to have? glossy? matt? enhance its features!?:drool5:

 

[UITA]

Sorry for the late reply, I'm looking to get a glossy finish. Here's the room, it's about 3.6mX3.7m and has a door either side.

I'm close to laying and would much appreciate some links to the adhesive, sealer, grout and the tools I need. Also some more tips as to where to start and how to tackle the difference in size of tiles (amount of packing out of the tiles). Here are the tiles (and toes).

Should a surface like this be better suited for adhesive or display?

​

 

[david campbell]

try and centre the room, lay out the tiles(without adhesive) to see where your cuts will come in(helps avoid akward cuts and slithers) around doors units etc
if a door is central then it a good starting point,either centre a tile or 2 from there

also lay your thickest tiles first it will reduce the chance later of having any unsightly lips in the floor

 

[easyt]

I'm not a pro but the bit about thinking carefully about joint locations is so true. Also the advice to mark a line somewhere near the middle as a start out. When I tiled OH's kitchen floor I checked the room for square. The main wall ran out 2.5 inches in 10 foot (approx).

I remember doing a neighbours kitchen floor (after he had seen mine). It was a far from level base. This meant that an area of tiles were going to need an overdeep bed or the floor needed more prep. What I did in the thicker areas was put some of my mix into another bucket and add a little portland cement and some sharp sand. This gave me a stiffer mix for those areas. 20 yeas on no problems.

Easy T

 

[nybor62]

aquamix gloss sealer
Aqua Mix High Gloss Sealer | Aqua Mix High Gloss Sealer for Tile & Stone

 

[UITA]

Thanks all. I've done a floor plan in photoshop that I'm hoping will help, it certainly gave me an almost exact number of tiles I needed. With regards having a different mix, could the same apply for the unevenness of the tiles, pack them out a little?

 

[UITA]

aquamix gloss sealer
Aqua Mix High Gloss Sealer | Aqua Mix High Gloss Sealer for Tile & Stone

Thanks for the link, any idea what area this will do.

 

[david campbell]

yes, as before start with the thicker ones as it's a lot easier to bed up with the adhesive than realise you have some thicker tiles and can't get them level

 

[ScottG13]

I am not speaking from experience but did a course recently and here are a few things i leant about using slate.

Make sure you have extra tiles so you can sort throught the best ones. Sort into 4 piles, thin, medium, thick and broken.

Check slate for flaking before laying. If you tap the tile you can hear the difference if there is a loose piece. You can flake this off with a scraper etc.

Brick bond is recommended. Due to the nature of the tiles and variations in size your grout lines may be not match up and will be further and further out the further you go. With Brick bond the grout lines are staggered and excellent way of disguising this.

Use thin tiles for cuts. If some cuts are from the same tile, mix and match them so they look better next to each other. Some recommend impregnating cut tiles before laying. Start with thicker thin tiles for cuts first, so you can build up thinner cuts if neccessary.

If you haven't got skirting in the room yet, it might be an idea to put it on first. If you put skirting on after there will be big gaps due to the uneven surface of the slate.
_________________
-_-____----______----

As for getting the tiles to the same level, you only want them level to a certain extent. As it adds to the rustic look, which is why you have gone for slate Im guessing. Because you will have the tiles in separate piles of thickness you can use them accordingly to avoid having a very thick tile next to very thin ones.

Hope this could be of some help. Let us know how you get on. I will be watching this thread asi am doing a slate floor in a kitchen soon.

 

[MARBLE_TONY]

I would look at the Aqua mix Enrich 'N' Seal as a alternative this will enhance the features of the stone more and shall give you a "Wet Look" maybe a nicer finish on slate than the high gloss sealer send me your address i got some sample test bottles and you can have a play on a piece that you may not use or a offcut

 

[Deleted member 1779]

Looks like a good project to watch!

 

[faithhealer]

a wide grout line will also help hide some uneveness, minimum 5 mm up to say 8mm (ish)

 

[UITA]

If you haven't got skirting in the room yet, it might be an idea to put it on first. If you put skirting on after there will be big gaps due to the uneven surface of the slate.

Thanks for the advice, this makes sense, never thought of that. Don't know what you mean by impregnating cut tiles (I'm sure it's not what first comes to mind) or brick bond.

I've come across this
UniBond Tile On Floors Rapid Set+ Ceramic & Natural Stone Grey, 5010383305093
Is this any good?

 

[DHTiling]

You can scribe skirting to suit the tiled floor.

 

[DHTiling]

Thanks for the advice, this makes sense, never thought of that. Don't know what you mean by impregnating cut tiles (I'm sure it's not what first comes to mind) or brick bond.

I've come across this
UniBond Tile On Floors Rapid Set+ Ceramic & Natural Stone Grey, 5010383305093
Is this any good?

Too expensive.. you will get a suitable adhesive from a tile distributor a lot cheaper.

 

[david campbell]

impregnating cut tiles -
he means sealing them to avoid any adhesive contacting the face of them
brickbond-the way bricks are laid in housebuilding

 

[UITA]

Too expensive.. you will get a suitable adhesive from a tile distributor a lot cheaper.

Help me out Dave, what do you think I should pay. I have done the usual Google searches and local to me is this
Toppfix Rapidset Flexible White | Topps Tiles
I'm confused as I've been told not to skimp. Right this might seem real obvious but as I need to lay around 14 square meters how many 20kg bags do I need? Last one "scribe skirting"?

 

[ScottG13]

impregnating cut tiles -
he means sealing them to avoid any adhesive contacting the face of them
brickbond-the way bricks are laid in housebuilding

The bloke that taught me seals all the full tiles once laid. How would you go about it? Id be tempted to seal all tiles before laying as all it would take is a slip of the wrist, bit of adhesive, oops :mad2:

 

[Colour Republic]

ok thanks but 6 out of 4 in this thread :spam: