Floating floor - bounce - Tile Advice

[Kwakey1]

Hi all,

I am converting half of my garage into an office. I've put down a floating floor with celetex and caber floor on top so it's level with my hallway. I levelled the floor before laying the celotex and i thought it was pretty level. I've come down this morning and it's solid, apart from in one area, and low and behold the worse place, in the doorway. It's a tad springy which concerns me for when i lay my tiles on anti fracture matting.

Am I overthinking it or does this need rectifying before I put my anti fracture matting down?

I didn't know whether to drill and put some crazy foam under just the affected area. I really don't want to disturb the rest of the flooring because that's all good.

I am not a tiler, so any help would be appreciated.

 

[CJ]

Personally, I don’t fix tile onto floating floor. Why not use LVT

 

[Kwakey1]

Personally, I don’t fix tile onto floating floor. Why not use LVT

Will the flexible adhesive allow for the bit of spring in the doorway do you think?

 

[Dave]

Floating floors are a big no no for tiling. Crack matting is for lateral stress and not bouncey floors.

 

[Kwakey1]

Floating floors are a big no no for tiling. Crack matting is for lateral stress and not bouncey floors.

Thanks Dave. I am a bit stuck because the celotex and cabre has gone down now. I really don't want to rip it all up and start again. I am convinced it's solid elsewhere. There is no movement. It's just this half a square metre close to the new doorway. Any solutions for making just this bit more solid would be massively helpful

 

[Dave]

Thanks Dave. I am a bit stuck because the celotex and cabre has gone down now. I really don't want to rip it all up and start again. I am convinced it's solid elsewhere. There is no movement. It's just this half a square metre close to the new doorway. Any solutions for making just this bit more solid would be massively helpful

The best way would have been the frame the floor , insulation and then board, taking away the bounce. The thing is the floor might feel solid now but in time the insulation can give and then you have deflection issues. You could if you have no pipe work under the floor , is to use long frame fixings and drill through the floor into the screed substrate and pull the floor down tight. This should hold it down solid enough.

 

[CJ]

You can get LVT that looks like tiles........and they have a lot more give in them.

 

[Kwakey1]

The best way would have been the frame the floor , insulation and then board, taking away the bounce. The thing is the floor might feel solid now but in time the insulation can give and then you have deflection issues. You could if you have no pipe work under the floor , is to use long frame fixings and drill through the floor into the screed substrate and pull the floor down tight. This should hold it down solid enough.

Thanks Dave. I've just had a chat with my dad and he said the same. I can put some metal fixings on the side because the plaster board hasn't gone up yet, so that will push it down. A couple of fixings in the doorway and it should be solid.

In hindsight, I wouldn't have gone with the floating floor. I spoke with 3 different builders and they all said a floating floor so I assumed it would be ok. I am not one for quick jobs usually so I am annoyed I didn't go for the more secure option. It's a smallish area though, and that's perhaps why people suggested going down this route.

 

[Dave]

Thanks Dave. I've just had a chat with my dad and he said the same. I can put some metal fixings on the side because the plaster board hasn't gone up yet, so that will push it down. A couple of fixings in the doorway and it should be solid.

In hindsight, I wouldn't have gone with the floating floor. I spoke with 3 different builders and they all said a floating floor so I assumed it would be ok. I am not one for quick jobs usually so I am annoyed I didn't go for the more secure option. It's a smallish area though, and that's perhaps why people suggested going down this route.

Put the frame fixings through the floor ( chipboard) into the solid substrate underneath, not just at the edges. Best make it fully secure for longevity 👍

 

[Kwakey1]

Put the frame fixings through the floor ( chipboard) into the solid substrate underneath, not just at the edges. Best make it fully secure for longevity 👍

Will do. Thanks Dave. Really helpful