Fixing into Hardiebacker

J

jond500

Hi All,

What is the best way of fixing into Hardibacker (12mm) Do you use rawlplugs etc. or a hollow wall fixing? The Hardi is screwed to studwork and is now tiled.

All I need to fix is the rail for the shower, the water is fed from the digital controller in the loft through the rail and then a small wireless controller for the shower.

The shower screen is glass but that's not really an issue as I was able to fix an additional stud prior to fixing the Hardi to screw into.

Cheers,

Jon.
 
personally I used to screw in using turbo gold scews into studwork and the same for 6mm flooring grade.

Don't ever use it now as there are better products out there.
 
Thanks,

The Hardi is already on the walls and tiled (Fixed with stainless steel screws into studwork)

Need to know how to fix stuff to the walls now it's tiled 🙂

Cheers,

Jon.
 
I do apologise I completely misread your original question. I use rawl plugs with lugs on them.

What is the composite of tiles you are fixing into?

Try not to use the grout lines as the drill may shatter more of the tile off than you require.

Cheers
 
No problem 🙂

The tiles are ceramic 500x200mm I am planning to drill the holes as close to the centre of the tiles as I can and avoid the grout lines. When I fix into masonry I always avoid the mortar where possible to get a stronger fixing 🙂 At least if I can use rawlplugs then I can also use stainless steel screws 🙂

I have bought a diamond core drill and suction jig to assist me but am going to drill some test holes in one of the original sample tiles. I have never drilled tiles before but have watched some of the 365drills video's on youtube to get an idea how to do so.

On another point can I drill the holes before I grout? I'm just thinking in case I muller a tile it may be a bit easier to replace the tile if anything does go wrong.

Cheers,

Jon.
 
I quite often drill the holes before I grout so the dust isn't going over new grout, just pop a bit of masking tape over the holes before you grout.
 
Many many thanks for the advice from all on this thread and all the others I have posted.

This is a DIY job and after finding this forum the job has taken a LOT longer than planned; however that's not a problem as it's going to be done right and not fail, I have learnt a hell of a lot and really appreciate how hard tiling is!! I have done a couple of little bits before but learn more every time. The biggest problem is my background as an aircraft engineer.... It has to be perfect.. I have pulled several tiles off the wall as I wasn't happy with them (while the addy was still wet) and then re fixed until perfect.

I do have one more question but will post it in a separate thread as it's completely unrelated to this one.

If Dan\the forum\members would appreciate it I will write up a before tilersforum plan and what the job actually turned into and how i did it with pictures before\during and the finished job.

Cheers,

Jon.
 
get it 'written' down.


now I know where to come when I need my airbus serviced on the cheap 😉
 
Turbo gold screws?

They the ones with two threads on them?
 
I use jackoboards for almost every installation these days.

lightweight. Thermally efficient. No silica. Cheaper!
 
Ahhh I see don't ask me lol I never even used hardie much!
 
I ALWAYS tell people if they are going to fix anything, to drill through tile into background, and then drill just the tile in the next size up bit.

SO, the plug fits flush with the wall, and not flush with the tile.........it lessons the chance of when the plug expands, of breaking the tile.

it makes sense to me.
 
I used to drill through the lot in one size, stick the plug on the end of the screw and tap it back with the hammer, then unscrew the screw with your fingers and the plug should stay put in the actual wall then and not be touching the tile.

Still a bit of a maul I guess but a different maul to the above ha
 
How many times have you seen it though. The fixings for the shower screen or wotever falling on or near the edge of tiles, and some clumsy arsed plumber drill to small a hole, and then hammering in the plug, and then using a drill/driver on HAMMER to whack the screw in. Then wondering why the tile cracked.
 
Cant say i have ever had a tile break through expansion of a plug. Use the right width screw...jobs a goodn.
 
I've broke a few tiles to be honest. It's usually when you use the dodgy kits that come with the fittings rather than your own screwfix set or whatever. I've just learnt to be more safe than sorry. The time it takes to replace a tile and make it like new again far outweighs the few extra minutes making sure the plugs are in the wall and not the tile.

Plus I'm not sure I'd want my mirror hanging on the ceramic tile, I want that bugger in the wall! I've looked at ceramics and they've crazed before now *superman glares*
 
I must just be mint at it then.

What we must remember here is that im advising on a stud wall where there is a cavity. So going into the the wall isnt an option cos there is no wall. If u hit the timber sack the rawl plug off. Therefore a lugged plug will be grand.

Dan if u cant hang a mirror on your fixed ceramic then u must be dot n dabbing lol. Id hang a chin up bar off mine like.
 
Just bumping some of the older popular (sometimes not so popular) threads. Probably wont be current discussion these days but I just need to do it. So just ignore the thread if it's not current for you.
 

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Fixing into Hardiebacker
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