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N

Norfolkmick

Firstly thanks for the great welcome.
My biggest problem when I tiled the bathroom was the Marley tiles, I phoned several tile suppliers to ask if after removing the tiles could I tile straight on top of the black Marley adhesive, most said it would be OK and one suggested a thin coat of self leveling compound. I used Mapie floor flexible adhesive, they went down beautifully. After about a month while I was working on the shower, I noticed one of the tiles had a hollow sound when I tapped it, I guessed somehow I hadn't put enough adhesive under it so I broke it up to replace it properly. It came up easily and the adhesive had not set, I poked under the tiles around it and all the adhesive was soft, I lifted the whole floor.
I phone Mapie who were very helpful, they told me the black stuff had to be removed, I phoned the SLCompound makers and he said the same and that had I used SLC I would have had 2 layers to remove, because it would soften that as well.
The black stuff had to be removed but it was more like floor paint than pitch, I scraped way for over an hour and removed about half a tiles worth, then I scrubbed it with wire wool and white spirit, paraffin, petrol (yes I know it was dangerous but I was desperate) then hot soapy water and it was still black. In the end I got rid of it with several diamond cutting disks an my angle grinder, you can imagine the mess. I then used the SLC and retiled the floor, it looks great.
I now have the toilet, large hall and kitchen to tile, all have the same Marley tiles from the late 1960s. I think it might kill me if I have to go through half of that again, I can't afford to get somebody to do the work for me and I do want to do the job correctly, has anyone got an easier answer please.
Many thanks.
The end of chapter1, Micks history of tiling
 
W

White Room

I'd try and use a paint stripper, the electric one and scrape with good paint scraper, see how that works
 
N

Norfolkmick

Thanks Whitebeam, unfortunatly the Marley adhesive seems to ave been very thin, just like thick paint, there is nothing to get under with a scraper. Would you know if it's possible to tile on top of the Marley tiles, if so what sort of preperation should I do?
Thanks again,
Mick
 
W

White Room

I'm never keen to tile over marley tiles, I would lift them but if it's the way you want to go make sure they are secure, use an abrasive and scratch the tiles surface and prime with sbr.. You say that the black stuff is very thin try the electric paint stripper and run a wire brush over it or mechanically with sander with a very course abrasive pad. I tiled my own floor with very thin black adhesive on the floor and never had a problem and it's been down for six years but it's your choice at the end of the day
 
R

RockCeramics

I would agree as to take up marley tiles and use Whitebeams method .
If though you do leave old parts of adhesive on floor then your other oppstion would be to use Arditex laytex smoothing compound but this product does contain ammonia so must be well ventulated

arditexsml.gif

A universal sub-floor smoothing compound, ARDITEX is used for the preparation of cement/sand and concrete screeds, quarry tiles, asphalt, granolithic or terrazzo floors and timber. ARDITEX is partially self-smoothing and can be used under a damp proof membrane.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
G

grumpygrouter

You can try going over the adhesive with Ardex P82 epoxy primer and leave it to dry then tile on the top. (advice given to me by Ardex tech support for a similar situation).
 
N

Norfolkmick

Many thanks to all of you for your advice, I'll try the electric paintstripper method first (it's the cheapest and I just love cheap) I'll also contact Arditex and Ardex technical, I might even buy a small bag of each and try a test area. It will be a few weeks before I'm ready to start but I will report back to you with how it worked.
Once again many thanks
Kindest regards
Mick
 

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