T
Time's Ran Out
Answer to your post No.7 - Yes.
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Before anyone can really comment properly the missing info is needed. It may well be anhydrite but if lafarge supplied it could be any number of other products as well. As for liability not sure buthetiler wouldprobably shoulder most of the burden unless he has asked the questions he needed to ask of the builder and been given incorrect info. Always a difficult situation to deal with this one.
G
gubbins
Thanks ajax and John. we will be meeting over the next day or two so I will get clarification on that and other factors then come back to you experts. At least I now know which important points I need to be pressing them all on to start with, so thankyou everyone who took the time to reply.
D
Daz
What area of the country are you in Gubbins? There may be an experienced TF tiler local to you that could provide an initial assessment for you.
Daz
Daz
D
Daz
Wow lucky you! There's loads of top quality guys near you. If it goes slightly "pear shaped" you won't have trouble finding someone from here to assist. Phil Hobson springs to mind but I know there are quite a few established members on here that are more than capable of providing an assessment, if it comes to it.
Daz
Daz
G
gubbins
Meeting later today so Im looking for further clarification on some points;
If the 'Thermomix UHFL' dial was kept on the minimum setting during the 4 days or so the tiled floor was heated do the thermostic controls on the various zones have any / much effect on the heat that is applied to the UFH? They were up at 27C for the whole 4 days with the thermomix set at minimum.
If as timeless john mentions you should increase the thermostat by 5C steps, is that the thermomix dial or the thermosatic controls on the various zones? How long should each 5C increment be maintained for? And is it then ran at 4 days once at maximum?
Does performing this incorrectly alter the nature of the adhesive and / or anything else?
Thanks again you guys.
gubbins
If the 'Thermomix UHFL' dial was kept on the minimum setting during the 4 days or so the tiled floor was heated do the thermostic controls on the various zones have any / much effect on the heat that is applied to the UFH? They were up at 27C for the whole 4 days with the thermomix set at minimum.
If as timeless john mentions you should increase the thermostat by 5C steps, is that the thermomix dial or the thermosatic controls on the various zones? How long should each 5C increment be maintained for? And is it then ran at 4 days once at maximum?
Does performing this incorrectly alter the nature of the adhesive and / or anything else?
Thanks again you guys.
gubbins
J
jay
might be bed time for me ///but what type of screed is it ,and has the tiler allowed expansion joints especially around the perimeter being a large floor it must have expansion if not this could be the problem
T
Time's Ran Out
If I'am allowed to quote - from a major adhesive manufacturers 'bible'.
The heating pipes should be installed according to manufacturers instructions, fixed down and tested prior to being encapsulated in a screed or levelling compound.
If the pipes have been laid in a reinforced sand/cement screed, this must be allowed to dry fully prior to tiling.
A sand/cement screed should be left for 3 weeks with the underfloor heating off, to dry.
After this period the heating system should be turned on and the temperature raised by a maximum of 5degrees/day until the maximum recommended operating temperature is achieved.
This temperature should be maintained for 3 days and then the system turned off and the screed allowed to cool to 15degrees before tiling commences.
If a suitable polymer-modified levelling compound is used to cover the pipes instead of a sand/cement screed, the drying time will be considerably shorter.
Ensure that the cured surface of the floor is rigid, sound, clean, dry and free from any contaminating barrier. Porous or dense substrates must be primed and also impervious surfaces with the relevant manufacturers primers.
Fix the tiles.
Allow to cure. Keep the warming system turned off for at least 5 days to allow the cement to cure. Bring the system up to its operating temperature gradually in stages of 5degrees/day.
I hope this is of help.
You need to obtain the exact type of screed laid and the preparation prior to tiling it received
The heating pipes should be installed according to manufacturers instructions, fixed down and tested prior to being encapsulated in a screed or levelling compound.
If the pipes have been laid in a reinforced sand/cement screed, this must be allowed to dry fully prior to tiling.
A sand/cement screed should be left for 3 weeks with the underfloor heating off, to dry.
After this period the heating system should be turned on and the temperature raised by a maximum of 5degrees/day until the maximum recommended operating temperature is achieved.
This temperature should be maintained for 3 days and then the system turned off and the screed allowed to cool to 15degrees before tiling commences.
If a suitable polymer-modified levelling compound is used to cover the pipes instead of a sand/cement screed, the drying time will be considerably shorter.
Ensure that the cured surface of the floor is rigid, sound, clean, dry and free from any contaminating barrier. Porous or dense substrates must be primed and also impervious surfaces with the relevant manufacturers primers.
Fix the tiles.
Allow to cure. Keep the warming system turned off for at least 5 days to allow the cement to cure. Bring the system up to its operating temperature gradually in stages of 5degrees/day.
I hope this is of help.
You need to obtain the exact type of screed laid and the preparation prior to tiling it received
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