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Wet Saw Blade Advice

Discuss Wet Saw Blade Advice in the Australia Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

P

p4ulo

What wet saw have you got mate, you'll get some better advice with that being known.
Sounds like a VITREX 750 Pro to me, cos that's what I've got. And - blades are quite often tile specific.
If you are cutting thin, soft porcelain glazed tiles (metro etc) then a continuous rim diamond blade would do it....I've got a standard Vitrex blade for them and to be fair, I think anything would go through them cleanly.
Lots of positive comments about MONTOLIT DNA Blade but I think the fellas are using those on DEWALTS / Big RUBI's etc.
I did buy a MARCRIST blade once for my Vitrex, and it literally smashed its way through the tiles, it cut very quickly, but left a nasty looking gash with loads of chippage.....probs using it on the wrong tile TBH but it frightened the hell outa me!!
 
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Wishiwasatoptiler

TF
Esteemed
Arms
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1,118
Northeast
Hi fellas
It's a mac alistair from tradepoint, bought before I found the forum, lol.!
And it had a 700+x600+ table. Looked at the vitrex, had I found the forum before the purchase I probably would have bought different. What I find is that the blade chips even ceramic, plus I think a thinner blade would be better.
I've bought from ats Sean, some tidy looking drill bits so would quite happily by again if that's a good option.
Looked at the spectrum ultimate blade which has a few good reviews, think I remember 3fall mentioning spectrum as a good blade for grinders so might be good for wet saws.
 
O

Old Mod

Looked at the spectrum ultimate blade which has a few good reviews, think I remember 3fall mentioning spectrum as a good blade for grinders so might be good for wet saws.
Not me @Wishiwasatoptiler, not familiar with that blade mate.

I generally get a good quality smooth continuous rim blade with a J slot if I can.
Good quality ones will cut porcelain and ceramics alike.
Turbo blades tend to be too aggressive for ceramics.
Rubi do reasonably priced 180 blades, I get them for my TC180 and find they cope well for the money.
I use Montolit DNA's on my bridge saw tho.
Very high quality with a price tag to match tho.
 

Wishiwasatoptiler

TF
Esteemed
Arms
643
1,118
Northeast
Not me @Wishiwasatoptiler, not familiar with that blade mate.

I generally get a good quality smooth continuous rim blade with a J slot if I can.
Good quality ones will cut porcelain and ceramics alike.
Turbo blades tend to be too aggressive for ceramics.
Rubi do reasonably priced 180 blades, I get them for my TC180 and find they cope well for the money.
I use Montolit DNA's on my bridge saw tho.
Very high quality with a price tag to match tho.

Thanks for that, I'll look into them, must have mixed you with another thread!


I do find when replacing the blade in a wet cutter if you don't get the same thickness as the original blade then it snags on the guard when trying to push the tile through.....right pain in the buttocks! !!

Thanks for top tip, hadn't thought of that.
Cheers
D
 
O

Old Mod

@Wishiwasatoptiler

This is a short video of a Montolit DNA blade in a Rubi DC250 1200
The stone is 20mm limestone, so not particularly tough but this was to show two things, how fast a good blade can cut (not advisable) and how true the cut remained throughout, even tho it was cut too fast,
(U can hear the motor struggle a little near the end because I went too mad!)
I would never normally do this to the machine, but the blade can certainly handle it.
Lesser blades would have destroyed the edges and certainly wouldn't have stayed true on the cut.
I marked two lines, one to cut to, and the other to show it stayed parralell!
I certainly wouldn't advise cuts to be done in this manner normally.

 

Dan

Admin
Staff member
5,055
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Staffordshire, UK
@Wishiwasatoptiler

This is a short video of a Montolit DNA blade in a Rubi DC250 1200
The stone is 20mm limestone, so not particularly tough but this was to show two things, how fast a good blade can cut (not advisable) and how true the cut remained throughout, even tho it was cut too fast,
(U can hear the motor struggle a little near the end because I went too mad!)
I would never normally do this to the machine, but the blade can certainly handle it.
Lesser blades would have destroyed the edges and certainly wouldn't have stayed true on the cut.
I marked two lines, one to cut to, and the other to show it stayed parralell!
I certainly wouldn't advise cuts to be done in this manner normally.

Did you upload that direct to the forum?
 

Wishiwasatoptiler

TF
Esteemed
Arms
643
1,118
Northeast
image.jpg
 

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