Typing wooden bathroom floor help please

[Boogi]

Hi all, I'm new here so look after me please:smilewinkgrin:

I am in the process of re-doing my bathroom, and I have a number of tile related questions, some wall some floor, before I ask them let me tell you my plan and you may be able to offer some advice, I plan to remove everything out of the bathroom, including all fittings tiles , skirting, I also intend to remove the ply flooring that has been down for twenty years, I then plan to add extra noggins in between the joists, the put new 22mm waterproof ply down , seal it, then tile over it, Then put the bath in and chop it into the wall (it only just fits long ways) then get the room re plastered, then tile down to the new floor and also down to the bath edge so I don't have to use those horrible plastic things, I also intend to tile up to the window edge on the wall, then overlap that with the window sill tile, so I can avoid using the other plastic finishers. . So questions
1. Am I doing the right thing by ripping the floor up and fitting the noggins in
2. How thick should the ply boards be and is ply alone sufficient, what I don't want is a massive lip from the bathroom to the hall
3. What sealer do I use
4. What adhesive is recomended
5. So many tiles, ceramic, slate, quartz...... What I really want is a sparkly tile like galaxy, but I am told that natural stone will brake.
6. Toilet pan? Is it ok to sit on the tiles or tile round it

7. Am I doing the right thing chopping the bath into the wall
8 am I doing right with my window finish

Thanks in advance if anybody has the time to answer

 

[Ian]

Welcome to TF Boogi. You are on the right track with most of it. For your floor, after you have done the prep suggested, overboard that with 6mm cement board, this is a much more suitable surface to tile to. You will need a single part flexible adhesive (steer clear of ready mixed), any reputable tile shop will be able to supply you with this. Fit the toilet after the floor has been laid. With regards to your window finish, it all depends on what tile you choose, personally I don't like to see tiles overlapped, if using stone tiles have the edges mitred or bullnosed, if ceramic or porcelain use a steel trim as they often match the taps etc.

 

[AliGage]

1 and 2. Yes, I'd use 18mm ply thickness and overboard with 6mm hardi as Bri suggested.
3. Someone will soon correct if i'm wrongbut BAL sbr should be sufficient for the underside and edges of your ply.
4. BAL single part flexible - (Would suit the majority of tile types)
5. If your preps correct and the tiles are fixed correctly they'll be fine. Choose your tile and then ask for further advice on prep and fixing that product
6. Fit toilet after tiling. Asthetically better, less labour intensive, and if you ever need to replace the pan.....
7. Am i right in thinking this is the length of the bath. No need to chop the whole bath in unless you need to gain 10-20mm. Just chop in a little for your fixing brackets. I always think it's a good idea to fix supporting batons as well.
8. Agree with Bri on this one.

 

[Mike Mike]

Forget getting your room re-plastered. Gypsum plaster can hold the least tile weight per m2 of anything (20kg/m2, so not enough for natural stone, or thick porcelain wall tiles), and is water sensitive i.e. it falls apart with continued exposure to water, so you will need to tank the wet area of the room, around the bath/shower.

A better option is to use tile backer boards or Marmox type boards on the walls, these will naturally overlap the bath and give you the waterproof security you need without having a plastic bath strip.

Finally, for your window, mitre the edges. If you don't want plastic or metal tile trims then a mitred egde looks best. Most decent wet saws can accomodate this, or, there is a new Australian invention called Mitre Wiz that enables a common or garden angle grinder to become a mini mitring machine.

Best of luck with the project!

 

[AliGage]

Mitre Wizz! Miter Wizz! I wonder how many times it would return a hit next to your name Mike if i searched this forum for the term "Miter Wizz"?? lol

 

[Mike Mike]

Mitre Wizz! Miter Wizz! I wonder how many times it would return a hit next to your name Mike if i searched this forum for the term "Miter Wizz"?? lol

Ali, in fairness, the OP wrote:

"I also intend to tile up to the window edge on the wall, then overlap that with the window sill tile, so I can avoid using the other plastic finishers. "

You can't tell me that a mitred edge isn't the most professional, and best looking solution if they don't want to use a tile trim, can you??? :lol:

 

[AliGage]

Completely agree.

You mention Mitre Wizz a lot. I'm starting to crave one too since seeing the demo vid.

 

[Tony73]

Welcome to TF Boogi. You are on the right track with most of it. For your floor, after you have done the prep suggested, overboard that with 6mm cement board, this is a much more suitable surface to tile to. You will need a single part flexible adhesive (steer clear of ready mixed), any reputable tile shop will be able to supply you with this. Fit the toilet after the floor has been laid. With regards to your window finish, it all depends on what tile you choose, personally I don't like to see tiles overlapped, if using stone tiles have the edges mitred or bullnosed, if ceramic or porcelain use a steel trim as they often match the taps etc.

ALL GOOD , JUST TO ADD , CERAMIC AND PORCELAIN TILES ALSO COULD BE MITRED

 

[Boogi]

Just go be clear, I am not plastering the room, I am getting the walls skimmed, the house is 1950,s so the walls are solid,

 

[John Benton]

Ali, in fairness, the OP wrote:

"I also intend to tile up to the window edge on the wall, then overlap that with the window sill tile, so I can avoid using the other plastic finishers. "

You can't tell me that a mitred edge isn't the most professional, and best looking solution if they don't want to use a tile trim, can you??? :lol:

Be honest now Mike, you know that you will be able to sell it. There's plenty of interest, so when will it be available?