T
Time's Ran Out
You need a solid base - it’s not like laying paving slabs!
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But the website for the product says: Outdoor porcelain pavers can be dry laid onto grass, gravel, dirt and sand - or onto terraces and roofs using raised supports - without grout, adhesives or specialized workers, making installation incredibly easy.
Porcelain Pavers
Outdoor porcelain pavers are frost-resistant, skid-resistant, durable and easy to clean. Discover the difference in Belgard's porcelain brick pavers and tiles.
www.belgard.com
T
Time's Ran Out
And the result is - loose tiles that will move and sound crunchy!
Laid on grass?!?!?!? WTF!!!!
Lmao
Those suppliers need change their advice and learn how to fit them themselves on grass see if they recommend that then!
(Note that this is a USA member and supplier so respondents need to perhaps consider that when advising, not that much can be done now?!)
Lmao
Those suppliers need change their advice and learn how to fit them themselves on grass see if they recommend that then!
(Note that this is a USA member and supplier so respondents need to perhaps consider that when advising, not that much can be done now?!)
Last edited:
D
Dumbo
And ants nests and rat nests
I
Italy
Installing Tiles on Gravel or Sand | EVO_2/E™ Mirage
Learn how to lay porcelain tiles and outdoor paving on gravel or sand, from the Mirage Evo collection. Discover now!
evo.mirage.it
Garden Porcelain Tiles for Grass | EVO_2/E™ Mirage
Learn how to lay garden porcelain tiles and outdoor paving on grass, from the Mirage Evo collection. Watch our video now!
evo.mirage.it
just carry out the right procedure.
over time some may move,
but the accommodation is fast.
but I've never tried laying on sand.
I
Italy
I
Italy
yes, if you don't want to stumble and break your femur :=)So to use them on Grass the step 1 is then to remove the grass
Hi All,
I am looking to install normal outdoor porcelain tile (8mm) over existing brick pavers. I could remove brick pavers as well but I am not sure how do I need to prepare the ground for tiling. For tiling over existing brick pavers, I am thinking to wash and prime brick paver and do sand and cement bedding (about 20-30mm thick) to lay tile over it.
Another option that I have seen on your tubes is to remove brick pavers and then put about 50mm compacted road base and then sand & cement bedding on that to lay tiles.
With both options, I am also not sure if the normal outdoor porcelain tiles which are about 8mm thick would be strong enough? Normally outdoor paves are 20mm thick. The reason for going for normal outdoor tile is cost. 20mm pavers are too expensive compared to 8mm outdoor tile.
Please suggest what would be better way to do it. I also considered just laying concrete with dimond cut pattern to make it look like tiles but thats bit expensive as well ($60 per sqm).
Thanks a lot.
I am looking to install normal outdoor porcelain tile (8mm) over existing brick pavers. I could remove brick pavers as well but I am not sure how do I need to prepare the ground for tiling. For tiling over existing brick pavers, I am thinking to wash and prime brick paver and do sand and cement bedding (about 20-30mm thick) to lay tile over it.
Another option that I have seen on your tubes is to remove brick pavers and then put about 50mm compacted road base and then sand & cement bedding on that to lay tiles.
With both options, I am also not sure if the normal outdoor porcelain tiles which are about 8mm thick would be strong enough? Normally outdoor paves are 20mm thick. The reason for going for normal outdoor tile is cost. 20mm pavers are too expensive compared to 8mm outdoor tile.
Please suggest what would be better way to do it. I also considered just laying concrete with dimond cut pattern to make it look like tiles but thats bit expensive as well ($60 per sqm).
Thanks a lot.
Attachments
We have an original, Victorian quarry tile path leading to our front door.
Several of the tiles are cracked or loose and need replacing.
The tiles are laid on compacted earth which is very solid (photo attached).
Is it worthwhile lifting the broken tiles out, replacing with reclaimed equivalents and then grouting in with flexible grout? Or is this a short-term fix, and the whole path should be lifted and relaid on a new cement base?
DIY'er - so appreciate any advice
Several of the tiles are cracked or loose and need replacing.
The tiles are laid on compacted earth which is very solid (photo attached).
Is it worthwhile lifting the broken tiles out, replacing with reclaimed equivalents and then grouting in with flexible grout? Or is this a short-term fix, and the whole path should be lifted and relaid on a new cement base?
DIY'er - so appreciate any advice
I've had some great advice on here before and i'm back for some more - mainly about adhesive choice.
I built a gazebo in the back garden earlier this year and have put a hot tub under it. The concrete has been down for 3 months and it'll be 2-3 months max before i start this job, so still quite "fresh". I plan on using standard dotti r9 tiles (prob 300x300) straight on to the concrete, but as the concrete is so new i'm not sure if i should use a decoupling mat (if so, which one?) and i have no clue what adhesive i need and how thick i should trowel it.
The tub is 2.1m x 2.1m and would easily tip 2.5 T when full of water and people. Ideally i need something that will cure up quickly enough that i can get the hot tub moved back on to it in 2-3 days max - even if i had to wait maybe another few days before refilling it. It also needs to be suitable for outdoor use and easy enough to work with for a DIYer. I could tile around the tub without moving it, but it would probably look a bit half-assed and would have the potential to retain water underneath the tub, which i don't want. The total area is roughly 9m2.
Any advice, tips, pointers gratefully received.
I built a gazebo in the back garden earlier this year and have put a hot tub under it. The concrete has been down for 3 months and it'll be 2-3 months max before i start this job, so still quite "fresh". I plan on using standard dotti r9 tiles (prob 300x300) straight on to the concrete, but as the concrete is so new i'm not sure if i should use a decoupling mat (if so, which one?) and i have no clue what adhesive i need and how thick i should trowel it.
The tub is 2.1m x 2.1m and would easily tip 2.5 T when full of water and people. Ideally i need something that will cure up quickly enough that i can get the hot tub moved back on to it in 2-3 days max - even if i had to wait maybe another few days before refilling it. It also needs to be suitable for outdoor use and easy enough to work with for a DIYer. I could tile around the tub without moving it, but it would probably look a bit half-assed and would have the potential to retain water underneath the tub, which i don't want. The total area is roughly 9m2.
Any advice, tips, pointers gratefully received.
I've had some great advice on here before and i'm back for some more - mainly about adhesive choice.
I built a gazebo in the back garden earlier this year and have put a hot tub under it. The concrete has been down for 3 months and it'll be 2-3 months max before i start this job, so still quite "fresh". I plan on using standard dotti r9 tiles (prob 300x300) straight on to the concrete, but as the concrete is so new i'm not sure if i should use a decoupling mat (if so, which one?) and i have no clue what adhesive i need and how thick i should trowel it.
The tub is 2.1m x 2.1m and would easily tip 2.5 T when full of water and people. Ideally i need something that will cure up quickly enough that i can get the hot tub moved back on to it in 2-3 days max - even if i had to wait maybe another few days before refilling it. It also needs to be suitable for outdoor use and easy enough to work with for a DIYer. I could tile around the tub without moving it, but it would probably look a bit half-assed and would have the potential to retain water underneath the tub, which i don't want. The total area is roughly 9m2.
Any advice, tips, pointers gratefully received.
I built a gazebo in the back garden earlier this year and have put a hot tub under it. The concrete has been down for 3 months and it'll be 2-3 months max before i start this job, so still quite "fresh". I plan on using standard dotti r9 tiles (prob 300x300) straight on to the concrete, but as the concrete is so new i'm not sure if i should use a decoupling mat (if so, which one?) and i have no clue what adhesive i need and how thick i should trowel it.
The tub is 2.1m x 2.1m and would easily tip 2.5 T when full of water and people. Ideally i need something that will cure up quickly enough that i can get the hot tub moved back on to it in 2-3 days max - even if i had to wait maybe another few days before refilling it. It also needs to be suitable for outdoor use and easy enough to work with for a DIYer. I could tile around the tub without moving it, but it would probably look a bit half-assed and would have the potential to retain water underneath the tub, which i don't want. The total area is roughly 9m2.
Any advice, tips, pointers gratefully received.
Hi all, I am currently having my patio tiled under my pergola with a Matt porcelain patterned tile. It's called the azteca blue tile and the manufacturer has said it does not need to be sealed.
It has a rough anti-slip surface which looks like it could trap dirt. My question is does this need to be sealed or would I be wasting my time and money sealing it?
If I do seal it, I was thinking of using the ltp porcelain tile pre grout protector before it's all grouted next weekend. What are your thoughts?
It has a rough anti-slip surface which looks like it could trap dirt. My question is does this need to be sealed or would I be wasting my time and money sealing it?
If I do seal it, I was thinking of using the ltp porcelain tile pre grout protector before it's all grouted next weekend. What are your thoughts?
Please contribute to this thread if you have any new information or can even just reiterate what has been said already. 🙂
No they don’t need sealing.
Kevbos
Arms
Please contribute to this thread if you have any new information or can even just reiterate what has been said already. 🙂
You did answer your own question !the manufacturer says they don't need sealing ! Problem is you have spent alot of money on a tile you now realise is probably not best for use in an area that is going to get dirty !! Just buy a jet washer and clean it regularly!! Sealant won't stop leaf mulch or mud from sitting on the sandpaper almost texture of tiles you have bought !! You just have to clean alot
Cutsnake
-
Hey guys, I haven't yet done any floor tiling and about to do a 30sqm balcony. Existing ceramic tiles are textured and quite porous. I'm going to prime and then start laying the 500*500 porcelain tile and get myself some levelling wedges.
Would appreciate any advice as I'd hate for it to go balls up Cheers
Would appreciate any advice as I'd hate for it to go balls up Cheers
Outdoor Kitchen Countertop
Dear experienced tilers,
I am writing in hopes that someone with experience in my particular task has done it before and is confident that the materials and stuff they use will work out well for an outdoor kitchen counter.
I assume the easiest solution to solve this problem is to hire someone to install a granite countertop. I have two issues with this, 1. I can't afford it and 2. It's hard for me to put granite or similar material, on an outside kitchen when I don't have it in my inside kitchen. In addition, my cabinets have more of a rustic appearance rather than polished.
I was considering doing a cement countertop, but this would have to be done on top of the cabinets in place, because of all the cut outs, there is no way of shaking the bubbles out, and when I asked for a few quotes, it was almost as expensive as a granite counter top.
As a temporary counter top (or so I thought, for the last 11years) I used 2 sheets of sheathing plywood covered with plastic table cloths matching what ever event we happen to be celebrating (birthday, baptism, baby shower, etc.)
As I start this project I will have to purchase a new plywood base and cut it to size.
In search of options I came across pool coping, which I liked as an alternative. I liked the 12” x 24” x 2”. The size works well because I can use the coping around the whole counter, having a finished edge, no actual “holes” had to be cut just slices that would go around the columns, minimum cuts for me, and fill in the center with another piece like so:
My first question is do I use Marine plywood? 1 or 2 layers, and ultimately how thick. Originally I thought of 2 pieces of 3/4” would be a strong base along with one layer of cement board. The pool coping is 2” thick, but I think that is way overboard and ultimately too much weight. My brother doubts that the cabinets or the deck was made to hold that kind of weight. So the question is “should I use the pool coping with just one sheet of 3/4” marine board or what?”
Next I was shown 1/4” porcelain, which seems like it is too thin and easily cracked. Lastly, I have found some outside porcelain that is itself 3/4’ thick and seems like a good possibility. In either scenario I’d like your opinion, which you think of as the most feasible for me to accomplish (least amount of cuts, easy to apply molding, and forgiving material). I am fairly well experienced with wood work and construction, but I never have done tile work. I do have one family relative that said he would assist me, but he has never done outside tile work. I don’t mind hiring a person for this, but I have not found anyone who is experienced in this. I would like to do this only once, (and before I have to move out of this house), so I do need help telling me what experienced tiler’s would suggest as far thicknesses, bases, and glues. Ten years ago this seemed like a fun project to tackle, now I would just like to be done with it and enjoy it the space. Thank you in advance for any assistance you can offer.
Cynthia
Dear experienced tilers,
I am writing in hopes that someone with experience in my particular task has done it before and is confident that the materials and stuff they use will work out well for an outdoor kitchen counter.
I assume the easiest solution to solve this problem is to hire someone to install a granite countertop. I have two issues with this, 1. I can't afford it and 2. It's hard for me to put granite or similar material, on an outside kitchen when I don't have it in my inside kitchen. In addition, my cabinets have more of a rustic appearance rather than polished.
I was considering doing a cement countertop, but this would have to be done on top of the cabinets in place, because of all the cut outs, there is no way of shaking the bubbles out, and when I asked for a few quotes, it was almost as expensive as a granite counter top.
As a temporary counter top (or so I thought, for the last 11years) I used 2 sheets of sheathing plywood covered with plastic table cloths matching what ever event we happen to be celebrating (birthday, baptism, baby shower, etc.)
As I start this project I will have to purchase a new plywood base and cut it to size.
In search of options I came across pool coping, which I liked as an alternative. I liked the 12” x 24” x 2”. The size works well because I can use the coping around the whole counter, having a finished edge, no actual “holes” had to be cut just slices that would go around the columns, minimum cuts for me, and fill in the center with another piece like so:
My first question is do I use Marine plywood? 1 or 2 layers, and ultimately how thick. Originally I thought of 2 pieces of 3/4” would be a strong base along with one layer of cement board. The pool coping is 2” thick, but I think that is way overboard and ultimately too much weight. My brother doubts that the cabinets or the deck was made to hold that kind of weight. So the question is “should I use the pool coping with just one sheet of 3/4” marine board or what?”
Next I was shown 1/4” porcelain, which seems like it is too thin and easily cracked. Lastly, I have found some outside porcelain that is itself 3/4’ thick and seems like a good possibility. In either scenario I’d like your opinion, which you think of as the most feasible for me to accomplish (least amount of cuts, easy to apply molding, and forgiving material). I am fairly well experienced with wood work and construction, but I never have done tile work. I do have one family relative that said he would assist me, but he has never done outside tile work. I don’t mind hiring a person for this, but I have not found anyone who is experienced in this. I would like to do this only once, (and before I have to move out of this house), so I do need help telling me what experienced tiler’s would suggest as far thicknesses, bases, and glues. Ten years ago this seemed like a fun project to tackle, now I would just like to be done with it and enjoy it the space. Thank you in advance for any assistance you can offer.
Cynthia
I plan on tiling my outdoor veranda next month, and thought I'd post this in case I'm about to do it wrong, or maybe someone can suggest a better way, or tips or improvements.
It is covered by the roof, but still gets rain on it regularly with the wind. From markings on it I can see it has had tiles before at some time.
It is mostly rectangular concrete slab, with a small diagonal section, and measures 1.2m wide x 5m long x 150mm thick. It has a 10-15mm drop to the 1.2m section for rain run off. Other than that it is fairly even and level, and is well above the damp proof membrane.
I have bought enough tiles to do the job, these are a mid gray 150mm square porcelain quarry type tiles. There are single rounded edge tiles for the outer edge, and normal tiles for all the other sections.
I plan to seal the concrete bed in case it proves to be too absorbent. I guess this will slow down the drying time of the tiles, but I will be in no hurry and can leave it for a few days. I plan to use Prime Bond Water Based SBR Primer
I then plan to start on the outside edge with the rounded edge tiles as my datum line to work from, then work inwards, and trim the final row of tiles as I reach the inner wall. I was thinking of a 6mm adhesive bed, with an 8mm gap between tiles. I plan to use Mapei Keraquick Grey Fast Setting Adhesive
Will 8mm joints be enough over 5m, or will I need an expansion joint?
Once the tiles are set I plan to use Mapei Ultracolor Plus Cement Grey Wall & Floor Grout for grouting. I wasn't planning on sealing the area beyond this unless it was adviseable.
Any help would be appreciated.
It is covered by the roof, but still gets rain on it regularly with the wind. From markings on it I can see it has had tiles before at some time.
It is mostly rectangular concrete slab, with a small diagonal section, and measures 1.2m wide x 5m long x 150mm thick. It has a 10-15mm drop to the 1.2m section for rain run off. Other than that it is fairly even and level, and is well above the damp proof membrane.
I have bought enough tiles to do the job, these are a mid gray 150mm square porcelain quarry type tiles. There are single rounded edge tiles for the outer edge, and normal tiles for all the other sections.
I plan to seal the concrete bed in case it proves to be too absorbent. I guess this will slow down the drying time of the tiles, but I will be in no hurry and can leave it for a few days. I plan to use Prime Bond Water Based SBR Primer
I then plan to start on the outside edge with the rounded edge tiles as my datum line to work from, then work inwards, and trim the final row of tiles as I reach the inner wall. I was thinking of a 6mm adhesive bed, with an 8mm gap between tiles. I plan to use Mapei Keraquick Grey Fast Setting Adhesive
Will 8mm joints be enough over 5m, or will I need an expansion joint?
Once the tiles are set I plan to use Mapei Ultracolor Plus Cement Grey Wall & Floor Grout for grouting. I wasn't planning on sealing the area beyond this unless it was adviseable.
Any help would be appreciated.
I have two counters under a gazeebo, brick walls with a concrete top.
I pre-cast the concrete 100mm thick, and then bedded this onto the brickwork, this was then tiled with porcelain tiles on the top and sides.
I looked at a polished concrete counter top, but this would mean shuttering and pouring the concrete in-situ, whihc is a lot of work, and then even more work involved in polishing it. I too looked at granite as an option, but, worte it off for the same reasons that you did
I pre-cast the concrete 100mm thick, and then bedded this onto the brickwork, this was then tiled with porcelain tiles on the top and sides.
I looked at a polished concrete counter top, but this would mean shuttering and pouring the concrete in-situ, whihc is a lot of work, and then even more work involved in polishing it. I too looked at granite as an option, but, worte it off for the same reasons that you did
Attachments
Thank you so much for your response. I understand what you did. I also thought about a concrete top, but between building the frame, getting the bubbles out and then polishing the top, the idea was trashed. Thank you for your assistance. I'd love to show you my counter tops, but I'm sure it would be at least 1 month before I can finish. If I can find you on this site again, then I will.
K
Kathryn
The day after my porcelain wood-plank look tile was installed, I had a party. I am now spending massive amounts of time cleaning off food oil stains, weeping cherry tree berry stains and rubber wheel marks from a wheelchair. I thought porcelain did not need sealing. I thought wrong!
Some need sealing, some don’t… if the manufacturer states not to seal them, then don’t. Jet wash the tiles but avoid the grout joints.
There are similar tiling threads here
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