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Hi Steve, Have they indicated what sort price there looking at, or ask them what region m2 there looking for, no harm in asking. But 24 m2 dos'nt sound bad I was working on £15 on site. Pva as primer NNOOOOOoooooo bal apd or sbr.
Are you sure about only 1/2 day?
Grumpy
Cheers Grumpy
There's sockets to cut around, and under cupboards, tiling onto old plaster (good nick, no holes, levels ok) Small tiles, roughly 140mm by 80mm. Going to grout next day since its local. £150 day rate ok?
regards
Allstar
Grumpy
regards
marbleman
one question how long have you been tiling ,
hope this helps mate
----
hope this helps mate M
damn that is cheap, i charge £23 a squared metre + materials regardless or walls/floors, 30 m2 would cost them around 760ish, i dont advertise either i get all mine from referals, and to the questions on the other tilers on speed, dont worry about it i take my time tiling too, if i take 4 or 5 days i dont care, my reputation is more important than a rush job, im in there 2 days longer than other tilers in most cases, there are tilers and there are finishing tilers, i hopefully belong to the latter... im a firm believer in you get what you pay for
Jock
Discuss New Tilers Support - 2 in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.
D
darrenba
Hi guys, another newbie here.
I'm in the process of adding a shower room under my stairs and was wondering if there are any tips for tiling the underside of the staircase. Is there any particular adhesive I should use to stop the tiles from falling off as I'm putting them up? Or should I be supporting them in some way?
Should I also replace the current plasterboard with aquapanel or is there something I can waterproof the plasterboard with?
I'm in the process of adding a shower room under my stairs and was wondering if there are any tips for tiling the underside of the staircase. Is there any particular adhesive I should use to stop the tiles from falling off as I'm putting them up? Or should I be supporting them in some way?
Should I also replace the current plasterboard with aquapanel or is there something I can waterproof the plasterboard with?
B
Brindle
Hi folks.
A bit of a query here again. I've searched for the answer but not found it exactly.
I am pricing a large ensuite, walls and floors. 21m ceramic walls, 8m porc or ceramic floor - cust yet to decide.
The substrate is very solid chipboard (recent new build), and runs through at the same level into the bedroom. Am I ok to tile the floor using Bal flexible providing I acrylic prime first.
I have a feeling the customer won't agree to adding another £200 for me to install tile backer board.
Cheers
Bob
A bit of a query here again. I've searched for the answer but not found it exactly.
I am pricing a large ensuite, walls and floors. 21m ceramic walls, 8m porc or ceramic floor - cust yet to decide.
The substrate is very solid chipboard (recent new build), and runs through at the same level into the bedroom. Am I ok to tile the floor using Bal flexible providing I acrylic prime first.
I have a feeling the customer won't agree to adding another £200 for me to install tile backer board.
Cheers
Bob
D
dalerichardson
D
DHTiling
This sounds like you have an efflorescence problem...try using lithofin cement away it should help.....heres a description of what it is....
Efflorescence. A salt deposit visible on the grout or on the tile edge also becomes an unsatisfactory situation. What is efflorescence? Efflorescence results from a soluble salt present in your mortar setting bed, in your cementitous grout and in concrete slabs. It remains fairly inert unless moisture is present, in which case the salt moves to the surface where it dries into a white, crumbly powder.
Where does the water come from? It may be available in the concrete substrate or in the cement mortar (where too much mixing water has been used). The water may come from the cementitous grout itself, particularly if excess mixing water was used - a situation which also results in voids in the grout that allow easy passage of water from the concrete or mortar mix. Elimination of efflorescence is achieved by some of the following methods. When installing over an on-grade slab, a vapor retarder should be in place beneath the slab. Use a meter to check moisture emissions. Other preventive measures include allowing your setting bed to dry (and cure), using proper mixing techniques, installing dense grout joints, not using excessive water in dressing joints, and using kraft paper for curing.
Efflorescence. A salt deposit visible on the grout or on the tile edge also becomes an unsatisfactory situation. What is efflorescence? Efflorescence results from a soluble salt present in your mortar setting bed, in your cementitous grout and in concrete slabs. It remains fairly inert unless moisture is present, in which case the salt moves to the surface where it dries into a white, crumbly powder.
Where does the water come from? It may be available in the concrete substrate or in the cement mortar (where too much mixing water has been used). The water may come from the cementitous grout itself, particularly if excess mixing water was used - a situation which also results in voids in the grout that allow easy passage of water from the concrete or mortar mix. Elimination of efflorescence is achieved by some of the following methods. When installing over an on-grade slab, a vapor retarder should be in place beneath the slab. Use a meter to check moisture emissions. Other preventive measures include allowing your setting bed to dry (and cure), using proper mixing techniques, installing dense grout joints, not using excessive water in dressing joints, and using kraft paper for curing.
T
thechef
Any advice on putting down 70sq mts of Travertine tiles?
Been asked to quote, have done some reserch about filled and unfilled, as well as sealing before grouting.
Anything I should know about?
Also I did read a thread ages ago about a tent to keep in the dust, can someone point me too it?
All advice is good...well mostly:whatchutalkingabout
Been asked to quote, have done some reserch about filled and unfilled, as well as sealing before grouting.
Anything I should know about?
Also I did read a thread ages ago about a tent to keep in the dust, can someone point me too it?
All advice is good...well mostly:whatchutalkingabout
S
steve_mcgarry
Hi, I've been tiling for about 2 years now and have always had most of my work subbed out to me by larger tiling companies, but i have now managed to land myself a new build site with 3 houses and 6 flats local to me which is great, the problem is I am used to being given a price per m2 as a subbie, not me quoting a price for all works to be done!
The spec on the bathrooms and kitchens is pretty standard, fixing ceramic tiles on clean flat plaster with all visible tile edges to be trimmed.
I will be supplying all adhesive, grout, trim and will be PVA priming all walls prior to tiling.
If anyone could give me any tips on pricing up a job like this i would be grateful. I was looking at around the £24 m2 but am not to sure if that would scare off my customer, but at the same time I do not want to underprice the job.
Thanks.
The spec on the bathrooms and kitchens is pretty standard, fixing ceramic tiles on clean flat plaster with all visible tile edges to be trimmed.
I will be supplying all adhesive, grout, trim and will be PVA priming all walls prior to tiling.
If anyone could give me any tips on pricing up a job like this i would be grateful. I was looking at around the £24 m2 but am not to sure if that would scare off my customer, but at the same time I do not want to underprice the job.
Thanks.
W
White Room
Hi Steve, Have they indicated what sort price there looking at, or ask them what region m2 there looking for, no harm in asking. But 24 m2 dos'nt sound bad I was working on £15 on site. Pva as primer NNOOOOOoooooo bal apd or sbr.
G
grumpygrouter
If it's half a days work charge half your normal day rate. Do you have to cut around sockets etc. What size tiles are they, does the wall need any prep, are you grouting the same day? Waht about windows and and cutting around wall cupboards.
Are you sure about only 1/2 day?
Grumpy
G
GazTech
You have got to be kidding me!!!
Last edited by a moderator:
A
ALLSTAR
Cheers Grumpy
There's sockets to cut around, and under cupboards, tiling onto old plaster (good nick, no holes, levels ok) Small tiles, roughly 140mm by 80mm. Going to grout next day since its local. £150 day rate ok?
regards
Allstar
G
grumpygrouter
That would be about right then. Are you doing brick bond or straight set? Need to be slightly more careful with brick bond so it may take longer.
Grumpy
W
warwick
Hi I'm a couple of weeks into a tiling course at central tile training in Coventry. I have really enjoyed the course so far, learnt a lot, and found it to be generally good value.
I am caught in 2 minds weather to do a further 4 and a half day course. This would cover building and then tanking a prefabricated shower base and walls, installing the waste then mosaic tiling the whole thing. Can't remember the make of the prefab kit (aqua -something), but you become a registered installer on the company's books and you can carry their logo etc on your van.
Does this sound decent value for an outlay of £560
I have already paid out for van/tools/course etc which has come to more than I anticipated. I'm still in full time work and only intend doing part time at weekends until things hopefully take off...
Advice to sway me either way would be appreciated, thanks.
I am caught in 2 minds weather to do a further 4 and a half day course. This would cover building and then tanking a prefabricated shower base and walls, installing the waste then mosaic tiling the whole thing. Can't remember the make of the prefab kit (aqua -something), but you become a registered installer on the company's books and you can carry their logo etc on your van.
Does this sound decent value for an outlay of £560
I have already paid out for van/tools/course etc which has come to more than I anticipated. I'm still in full time work and only intend doing part time at weekends until things hopefully take off...
Advice to sway me either way would be appreciated, thanks.
K
kgr1979
I am just about to start out on my own, so obviously slightli aprehensive as i havn't been tiling that long. I would just like to know what process most of you guys do at the beginning of a job, i.e bathrooom wall and floor? Obviously i have been taught a certain way, however i would like to pick up any other helpful hints.
N
no1chance23
The Tile & Stone Show - Helping new tilers get started
For all new tilers looking for the best way to get started in the industry come along to The Tile & Stone Show on the 29 June - 1 July at London ExCeL this summer.
Its your chance to meet key figures in the industry to gain advice and network.
What to see
• Seminars with design experts such as Wayne Hemingway and Sebastion Conran
• A huge mix of exhibitors from all parts of the industry
• Business advice from Leo Aspden and Sheila Elliot
• See the latest products and launches - including a new range launched by Plasplugs at the show
and much more
To get your free pass for the show register now at www.thetileandstoneshow.co.uk
For all new tilers looking for the best way to get started in the industry come along to The Tile & Stone Show on the 29 June - 1 July at London ExCeL this summer.
Its your chance to meet key figures in the industry to gain advice and network.
What to see
• Seminars with design experts such as Wayne Hemingway and Sebastion Conran
• A huge mix of exhibitors from all parts of the industry
• Business advice from Leo Aspden and Sheila Elliot
• See the latest products and launches - including a new range launched by Plasplugs at the show
and much more
To get your free pass for the show register now at www.thetileandstoneshow.co.uk
well 350 to 400 pounds for 30 to 40 m2 is very low your doing yourself approx rate is £25-£28 per m2 walls labour adhesive grout and sealant . prep work is seprate charge on a daily rate . think about it you buy your own tools, insurances,run a vehicle, no holiday pay, no sick pay, clothing, so at that rate you are earning around £50 perday once you have paid your tax and i.n and expenses
regards
marbleman
one question how long have you been tiling ,
T
TileSmasher
Evening All,
I'm a new tiler, still wet behind the ears and have my first job next weekend. Just a small 15sq metre, downstairs toilet. I've assesed the job and there is lino glued to the concrete floor.
Does anybody have any tips about removing the glue from the floor once the lino is pulled up?
Cheers!
I'm a new tiler, still wet behind the ears and have my first job next weekend. Just a small 15sq metre, downstairs toilet. I've assesed the job and there is lino glued to the concrete floor.
Does anybody have any tips about removing the glue from the floor once the lino is pulled up?
Cheers!
H
hrgj3270
hi mate i lifted lino a few weeks ago on my first job. the lino i was faced with looked like normal vinyl on top but i was very unpleasently surprised when i tried to lift it. the vinyl was hessian backed and the glue stuck the hessian to the floor even after i had removed the vinyl. i had to scrape for 2 hours or so to remove it from a concrete floor. i also used a small bottle of adhesive thinner that is readily available from DIY shops. i washed the floor after using it just incase it affected the adhesive in anyway.
hope this helps mate
----
hi mate i lifted lino a few weeks ago on my first job. the lino i was faced with looked like normal vinyl on top but i was very unpleasently surprised when i tried to lift it. the vinyl was hessian backed and the glue stuck the hessian to the floor even after i had removed the vinyl. i had to scrape for 2 hours or so to remove it from a concrete floor. i also used a small bottle of adhesive thinner that is readily available from DIY shops. i washed the floor after using it just incase it affected the adhesive in anyway.
hope this helps mate M
Last edited by a moderator:
J
jocky102
damn that is cheap, i charge £23 a squared metre + materials regardless or walls/floors, 30 m2 would cost them around 760ish, i dont advertise either i get all mine from referals, and to the questions on the other tilers on speed, dont worry about it i take my time tiling too, if i take 4 or 5 days i dont care, my reputation is more important than a rush job, im in there 2 days longer than other tilers in most cases, there are tilers and there are finishing tilers, i hopefully belong to the latter... im a firm believer in you get what you pay for
Jock
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