Discuss Hardibacker Or Orbry? in the Australia Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

P

p4ulo

Here you go @Lakey - direct from their website:

OrbryTM Boards are ideal for fixing floor tiles to timber, screed and
concrete floors. Fully waterproof, they can be used to create an
insulated tanked wall and floor system ideal for wet rooms.
When used with electric under floor heating systems, OrbryTM
Boards
will increase the efficiency of the system by reducing heat
loss to the surrounding environment, significantly reducing your
electrical consumption. OrbryTM Boards are suitable for overlaying
with ceramic tiles or stone.*
TIMBER FLOORS
1. Fix and level any loose floor boards. Floors must be stiff with
minimum deflection under load.
2. Spread a coat of rapid-setting cement polymer modified fast
setting cement based adhesive onto the floor and lay the OrbryTM
Boards into the adhesive. Then mechanically fix with OrbryTM
Stainless Steel Screws and OrbryTM Backer Board Washers. (see
fig.1) Boards should be laid in a broken bond pattern.
3. When fixing to dry areas, apply OrbryTM Self Adhesive Scrim
Tape
to all horizontal and vertical joints using a thin layer of
cement based tile adhesive and a float trowel (see Fig.2).
When fixing over timber the minimum board thickness is 6mm.
 
P

p4ulo

And for Hardie:
4. Install HardieBacker® to subfloor
• Apply a gap filling bed of non-flexible tile adhesive to the
subfloor using a 6mm notched trowel.
• Embed HardieBacker® with a sliding motion firmly and evenly
in the wet tile adhesive.
• Use the EZ Grid® fastener pattern as a guide. Fasten
HardieBacker® with specified nails or screws every 200mm
over the entire surface. Keep fixings between 15mm from
board edges and 50mm from board corners.
• Set heads of fixings flush with the surface without overdriving.
 
P

p4ulo

Interestingly, neither say - wait 3 hours for the adhesive to dry then screw down?
Although it doesn't say it, surely the adhesive should be wet when fixing down?
 
O

Old Mod

Well that's exactly right P4ulo,
It doesn't say mechanically fix in to WET adhesive.
That's why it was an opinion, and not a statement of fact!
 

widler

TF
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What are u talking about! That's nonsense!
U really do get ur knickers in a twist on here lately Craig!
Not the person I remember!
If u have a straight board and u fill the voids with adhesive you're straightening the floor!
By the very words 'FILL THE VOIDS!' You're straightening the floor!
A void is a dip in the floor is it not!
So if u fill that void, u've straightened it!
I never once mentioned LEVEL did I!
So by that rationale, u lay your Hardie in wet SLC do u!
And if u read my post more carefully, it says 'the way I LOOK AT IT'
It wasn't a definitive answer!
I am not getting my knickers in a twisk marc
1-i only wear knickers at weekends
2-my replys have little emo's on them, if i was crammed, which takes a lot, I WOULD BE WRITING LIKE F###kING THIS , which u have done, calm down old man ;)

The point of hardie or any other tilebacker is to give the floor a surface to tile onto , not to straighten or flatten , the floor , u straighten or flatten the floor with SLC , hardie will not straighten or flattern it, voids, marv can be a either side of a bump, say a high joist, it will not straighten or flatten it.
And yes i do lay and screw down in wet addy, the way i look at it , its a much better job .:handwaving:
Ps i disagree with you on this :thumbsup:
 
O

Old Mod

Tbh Craig I could give a crap how people fix Hardie! Or why for that matter!
I took exception to the way u spoke and directed that post at me!
I don't change my mind and I certainly don't make things up!
It was an opinion and no more, like I stated in the begining.
Furthermore, it certainly wasn't aimed at u!
It was in reply to the OP, and forgive me if I'm wrong, ur not the OP!
So just because I may see things slightly different to u, it doesn't mean my post is directed at u!
If it was, believe me I'd tell u!
 

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