Discuss cement boards instead of plywood in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

kilty55

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hi all,okay to let you in the picture a plumber has tiled a bathroom and made it look like a shell hit house from lebanon,hes asked me to sort it out for him.

the main wall thats tiled is in shocking condition and all over the place,,my old mans a joiner and wants to create a frame and ply the whole wall on the frame ,,however im not keen on plywood walls in bathrooms to tile onto and wd prefer cement boards 6mm,the 6mm wd help also so we dont lose more room in the bathroom also as we cant move the bath now. my question is can he simply screw the boards on as they are,as i have used these before but always screwed them to solid walls and not a wooden frame? hope this makes sense:thumbsup:
 
S

simhopper

As long as the frame work is rot free and securely fixed then it will be fine in holding the cement board.

Can you not remove it all and dot and dab plasterboard onto bare walls?
 
T

Time's Ran Out

Is it a real wet area and are the tiles of medium size - cause I'd just take off whats on and dot/dab plasterboard. That way you can make your own levels.:thumbsup:

Timeless John.
 

kilty55

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i did want too dot n dab the plasterboard but my old man bein a joiners always looking for a fixing:lol:,,its just round a bath area,,tiles are 150 by 150 whites. thanks for the advice guys
 
G

grumpygrouter

Which cement boards Kilty? Hardie 6mm is designed for floors, their thicker stuff is designed for walls.
 
G

grumpygrouter

wouldny 6mm boards suffice for 150 by 150 whites,,there is no weight in them?
Probably but would Hardie stand for any warranty issues if it did fail as the 6mm is supposed to be glued as well. As Neale says think the thicker boards are cheaper.:thumbsup:
 
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kilty55

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i know what your saying is right grumps mate,,i hate re doin bodge jobs for people theres always issues.

our issue is we cant move the bath and the wall thats tiled(bath wall) is tiled directly onto a skateboard ramp shaped plastered wall,,we need to straighten it before tiling,,and i wanted to have the minimum thickness substrate to attach to it as i dont want it looking too far out on the bath edge if you get me.

its not about the cost its just 12mm is double the thickness i wondered would 6mm be okay for thin tiles,,but as you say if it failed i would be responsible
 
G

grumpygrouter

i know what your saying is right grumps mate,,i hate re doin bodge jobs for people theres always issues.

our issue is we cant move the bath and the wall thats tiled(bath wall) is tiled directly onto a skateboard ramp shaped plastered wall,,we need to straighten it before tiling,,and i wanted to have the minimum thickness substrate to attach to it as i dont want it looking too far out on the bath edge if you get me.

its not about the cost its just 12mm is double the thickness i wondered would 6mm be okay for thin tiles,,but as you say if it failed i would be responsible
I am sure the weight is no problem, the thought that goes through my mind though is how strong the cement board is with regards to just the screw fixing. I don't know how well it would go up. If you have a spare piece in you garage, try screwing it to a piece of timber and see how it goes. Too close to the edge and I fear it wil just break.:thumbsup:
 
J

jay

hi kilty why dont you use villa board (cement sheet for walls ) only 4,5mm thick designed to be screwed to walls (or is it unavalable over there):8:
 
H

hillhead

bloody typical.another cowboy tiler or wannabe tiler.they sure know how to leave a mess for us to clear up.we should charge double for rectifying other peoples work.that might teach people to be that bit more careful who they employ to do their work!
 
J

jay

okay that explains that its like cement sheet but not as brittle has a recess for jointing (like p/b) comes in sheet sizes the same as p/b carrys more weight we mainley use it in bathrooms water resistant ect just google villaboard i think thickness are 4.5 or 6mm:8:
 

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