Tiling to the top (underside) of a window alcove

[Realstokebloke]

Post fitting a new Uvpc window I have to patch in and around the alcove where our less than deft fitters shed tiles a plenty.

1. At the top (in the alcove on the underside if you will) is there a requirement to wedge the tiles while the adhesive goes off or will they hold?

i have either some BAL single part flexible or some Unibond rapid set flexible left over from an en suite i did recently, and the Unibond is rapid set which might be better?

2. Also, where the tiles have popped off (I think they were 'adhered' by blue tack or chewing gum by the builder originally), I have scrapped back all the loose stuff and now just have plasterboard again.

do I need to prime that at all with these. I've forgotten tbh.

Thanks.

 

[Andy Allen]

the tiles on the under side of the cill will hold by themselves providing there not to heavy...ie stone or large pors, I prefer to spread the adhesive on the surface and the tile to give a good bond. bal spf would be fine......prime using acrylic based primer NOT pva....

 

[Sean SML Tiling]

Clearly not a tiler and doing wet rooms. Shocking!

 

[Realstokebloke]

the tiles on the under side of the cill will hold by themselves providing there not to heavy...ie stone or large pors, I prefer to spread the adhesive on the surface and the tile to give a good bond. bal spf would be fine......prime using acrylic based primer NOT pva....

cheers Andy.

no, comparative tiddler ceramics so should be fine.

OK with the primer, it clearly wasn't done before.

do I need to score the plasterboard also for grip?

i might struggle with the BAL I have left (although, I have found it to be excellent) so is the Unibond one an absolute no, no in your opinion?

 

[Realstokebloke]

Clearly not a tiler and doing wet rooms. Shocking!

no, not a pro., hence why I came on to ask for simple, friendly advice.

Why is that so shocking?

And where have you got wet room from?

 

[steve187]

do not score the plasterboard,

 

[DHTiling]

Scoring the PB will weaken its integrity.

 

[ian158]

no, not a pro., hence why I came on to ask for simple, friendly advice.

Why is that so shocking?

And where have you got wet room from?

coz some on here are a bit tetchy if they think your nicking their work...if your a DIY'er then fine..and your correct..theres nothing wrong in asking for some friendly advice...

 

[AliGage]

I don't think anyone on here is bothered about "nicking" work. What puts peoples noses out of joint is the likes of people advertising, taking on and taking pay for work they're not competent in doing.
Everyone is entitled to have a go at some DIY what I object to and I'm sure most others on here is builders, plumbers and no marks saying they can tile, taking someones hard earned cash and balls' ing it up.

Tiling is a skill and an art. A good tiler will be passionate as well as professional in every sense of the word. I'd expect a chippie, a plasterer etc that I may employ in the future to show the same traits. Loving your work is a key factor to being a good tiler.

To the question in hand, I would prime, no need to score. BAL would be my choice out the two you have. I usually make a frame out of some 2x1 just to ensure the tiles stay up and where I left them until the adhesive goes off.

 

[DHTiling]

I don't think anyone on here is bothered about "nicking" work. What puts peoples noses out of joint is the likes of people advertising, taking on and taking pay for work they're not competent in doing.
Everyone is entitled to have a go at some DIY what I object to and I'm sure most others on here is builders, plumbers and no marks saying they can tile, taking someones hard earned cash and balls' ing it up.

Tiling is a skill and an art. A good tiler will be passionate as well as professional in every sense of the word. I'd expect a chippie, a plasterer etc that I may employ in the future to show the same traits. Loving your work is a key factor to being a good tiler.

Well said that man ...